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Forum topic by Paul Fisicaro posted 12-16-2018 10:56 AM 674 views 0 times favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Paul Fisicaro

29 posts in 1773 days


12-16-2018 10:56 AM

I was re-sawing a piece of beech a few days ago and the blade came flying off the tires and literally scared the ever living crap out of me when the sparks went flying.. I figured it was just a rare incident since its never happened before. But then I was cutting a small piece of beech for a tote repair and a small piece of wood fell in the hole and boom (I dont have a zero clearance plate) the blade went flying off again. Now I’m real hesitant to use it because I have no idea what the heck is wrong. It’s never happened to me and all of a sudden it happens twice in one day. I looked at the guide under the table and it looks like this (see attached). The right guide is way off but its always been like that because I’ve never moved it – at least I dont remember moving it. I’m not sure if that’s the problem. I dont have the right allen wrench for it but Ill get one today and move it closer. Could that be the problem? The blade is pretty tight, slightly moves left to right when I push on it, maybe an 1/8 an inch. I re-sawed a piece of wood a week ago and it was pretty straight and had no issues.


22 replies so far

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Captspaulding

18 posts in 50 days


#1 posted 12-16-2018 11:05 AM

I had this happen to a 10” craftsman. Thinking it was a fluke I reinstalled the blade and it happened again. I was advised my tires were bad. I replaced my tires and never had an issue again

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Paul Fisicaro

29 posts in 1773 days


#2 posted 12-16-2018 11:18 AM



I had this happen to a 10” craftsman. Thinking it was a fluke I reinstalled the blade and it happened again. I was advised my tires were bad. I replaced my tires and never had an issue again

- Captspaulding

Thanks for the quick reply.. Can anyone recommend a place where I can get the exact tires? or would these work?

https://www.amazon.com/Urethane-Band-Saw-Tires-Delta/dp/B01C7V2XU4

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MrRon

5275 posts in 3483 days


#3 posted 12-16-2018 06:09 PM

If your lower guides are the roller variety and they look like they are, that is your problem. a “wedge” shaped piece of wood gets wedged in between the blade and roller and clamps onto the blade causing it to snap. Replace the lower guides with cool blocks if the guide will accept them.

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ocean

138 posts in 1073 days


#4 posted 12-16-2018 06:18 PM

Get yourself a zero clearance plate also (or make one of thin door skin). This will keep those small pieces from falling into the guides.

-- Bob, FL Keys

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Paul Fisicaro

29 posts in 1773 days


#5 posted 12-16-2018 06:57 PM


Get yourself a zero clearance plate also (or make one of thin door skin). This will keep those small pieces from falling into the guides.

- ocean


If your lower guides are the roller variety and they look like they are, that is your problem. a “wedge” shaped piece of wood gets wedged in between the blade and roller and clamps onto the blade causing it to snap. Replace the lower guides with cool blocks if the guide will accept them.

- MrRon

Well, that was the second time it happened. The first time nothing fell through the hole I was re-sawing. I suspect its that bottom roller too but its never happened before and I’ve had that band saw for three years.

Ron, are talking about these?

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/cool-blocks-bandsaw-blade-guide-round-block-size-1-4?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5peHpoOl3wIViFcNCh2u2gRpEAQYAiABEgKyKfD_BwE

Ocean, where are you in the Keys?? Im in Marathon.

View bigJohninvegas's profile

bigJohninvegas

545 posts in 1702 days


#6 posted 12-16-2018 07:09 PM

Hi Paul,
Try adjusting the guides and blade properly before you go replacing things.
My 17” grizzly saw has the roller bearing guides, and they work fine.
I was having all sorts of problems. Another bandsaw thread here had this video. I used
it to set up my saw and it has worked fine ever sense.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU
What saw do you have?

-- John

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Paul Fisicaro

29 posts in 1773 days


#7 posted 12-16-2018 07:16 PM



Hi Paul,
Try adjusting the guides and blade properly before you go replacing things.
My 17” grizzly saw has the roller bearing guides, and they work fine.
I was having all sorts of problems. Another bandsaw thread here had this video. I used
it to set up my saw and it has worked fine ever sense.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU
What saw do you have?

I watched that video a long while ago and did most of the stuff that he suggested. I have a 14” Delta X5.

- bigJohninvegas


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Andybb

1614 posts in 843 days


#8 posted 12-16-2018 07:30 PM

Thanks for the quick reply.. Can anyone recommend a place where I can get the exact tires? or would these work?

https://www.amazon.com/Urethane-Band-Saw-Tires-Delta/dp/B01C7V2XU4

- Paul Fisicaro

Those tires should work if you are sure that is the problem but I would set up the saw properly first. Remove the table, adjust the tension and guides, center the blade (not the gullet) on the top wheel, make an insert, check and adjust for any drift before you start spending money. I know everybody knows about and some poo poo Alex Snodgrass but that is your first step in the process of elimination. The BS is IMHO the most difficult machine to setup and diagnose issues with because everything affects and has an effect on everything else.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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Craftsman on the lake

2846 posts in 3678 days


#9 posted 12-17-2018 02:02 PM

I’ve got an older 14” craftsman. I’ve had it since 1973, same tires. Last year they began wandering on the pulleys. The tires looked okay but they’d just slide and the blade would be thrown. I took them off, applied a little contact cement and they now don’t move and neither does the blade.

Of course if your pulleys are not aligned the same thing will happen, but chances are they didn’t suddenly go out of alignment.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

2511 posts in 1462 days


#10 posted 12-17-2018 04:10 PM

Properly set up your guides then you can make a simple insert by just running a long piece of hardboard against your fence after setting it up for your re-sawing, cut half way through, stop, then clamp or double side tape it to your table. Now you have a “perfect” zero clearance insert that will keep any chunks from landing in your lower guides.

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Paul Fisicaro

29 posts in 1773 days


#11 posted 12-17-2018 04:26 PM



Properly set up your guides then you can make a simple insert by just running a long piece of hardboard against your fence after setting it up for your re-sawing, cut half way through, stop, then clamp or double side tape it to your table. Now you have a “perfect” zero clearance insert that will keep any chunks from landing in your lower guides.

That’s a great idea. Thanks! Never thought of that. Ill probably make an insert too. I know it wont be that hard. I just have to do it.

- splintergroup


View MrRon's profile

MrRon

5275 posts in 3483 days


#12 posted 12-17-2018 04:27 PM


If your lower guides are the roller variety and they look like they are, that is your problem. a “wedge” shaped piece of wood gets wedged in between the blade and roller and clamps onto the blade causing it to snap. Replace the lower guides with cool blocks if the guide will accept them.

- MrRon

Well, that was the second time it happened. The first time nothing fell through the hole I was re-sawing. I suspect its that bottom roller too but its never happened before and I ve had that band saw for three years.

Ron, are talking about these?

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/cool-blocks-bandsaw-blade-guide-round-block-size-1-4?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5peHpoOl3wIViFcNCh2u2gRpEAQYAiABEgKyKfD_BwE

Ocean, where are you in the Keys?? Im in Marathon.

- Paul Fisicaro


Yes

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Paul Fisicaro

29 posts in 1773 days


#13 posted 12-17-2018 04:31 PM



I ve got an older 14” craftsman. I ve had it since 1973, same tires. Last year they began wandering on the pulleys. The tires looked okay but they d just slide and the blade would be thrown. I took them off, applied a little contact cement and they now don t move and neither does the blade.

Of course if your pulleys are not aligned the same thing will happen, but chances are they didn t suddenly go out of alignment.

- Craftsman on the lake

My tires don’t look great and I know the previous owner used this saw A LOT. He made boat parts (trim and stuff) out of teak and mahogany. He had a giant shaper in his shop and all the works. Professional marine wood shop. The tires probably need to be changed either way, Im sure. I know they have some hours on them. Thanks for the tips! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-UNION-no-6-C-Vertical-Post-Hand-Plane-Old-Carpenters-Tool/192755205218?hash=item2ce11b0462:g:uhEAAOSwlUhbmZ7s:rk:5:pf:0

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TheFridge

10818 posts in 1726 days


#14 posted 12-18-2018 04:27 AM

If the tires still have a crown and don’t pull away from the rim as the machine is running, I would leave them be.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View steve104c's profile

steve104c

51 posts in 1478 days


#15 posted 12-18-2018 10:29 PM

I have Carter wheel guides on both of my bandsaws. They recommend that the saw should run where the teeth run flat at the top of the tire. The blade will run further back on the tire. Look on Carter bandsaw guides web site to see what I mean. Blade tension also needs to be correct. They have guides for most brands. I recommend highly. steve104c

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