LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner

Buy or Build sanding pads

2K views 19 replies 8 participants last post by  Wildwood 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
What's the most economical thing to do as far as sanding pads goes, (the drill/mandrel foam pad type). I'm looking at buying a set from a local supplier here but a bit apprehensive about being locked into buying the expensive velcro backed pads for the rest of eternity.

Is there any quick/economical way to make your own discs that mount to a pad somehow? Id prefer to buy sandpaper in bulk if there was a way to punch it and secure it easily even if I had to spend a couple hours per run. Buying 75mm discs for 90c each seems like going too far the other way.

Any thoughts or ideas?
Thanks in advance
 
#2 ·
i've found some knock off brands on Amazon that sell hook and loop backed sand paper that fit my Rockler R.O. sander, my Skilsaw Octosander and some of those soft foam velcro sanding blocks. They may be a lessor quality than the name brand sandpaper but I carefully found the ones that fit my sander and they are a lot less expensive. 60 sheets for the same price as 10.
Good luck
 
#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
You could buy PSA sandpaper sheets and either cut out by hand or get a punch the size you want. I'd recommend a tool called a wad punch or a hollow punch. Very simple cutter that you will be able to clean adhesive off of when you are done a batch. Same concept could be made very cheaply with an appropriately sized piece of pipe with a bevel sharpened around the radius, it will just require more frequent resharpening.
 
#5 ·
I do have a center lathe also so could quite easily turn a punch and harden it for punching discs.

Double sided tape is not a bad idea I was also thinking the 3m spray adhesive might work. Do they have enough holding power for the duration of the sandpapers life? I guess you'd have a mandrel for each grit rather than swapping sheets on the end of a mandrel for this technique.

If you spray adhesive or double sided tape on the face of the rubber foam pad what is a suitable material that won't break down? I imagine mouse pads/neoprene would fall apart easily
 
#12 · (Edited by Moderator)
Anything from the US to NZ seems to cost an arm and a leg for shipping these days. For consumer orders anyway. Can guarantee it won't be here before Christmas =(.

This is as far I got with the hacked pads yesterday. Haven't done the punch yet will just wear out a pair of scissors for now. I glued up one pad with spray adhesive I'd say the foam is going to go with the paper when its times up. Prob not the best material I might need to order something more dense

Table Wood Sewing Wood stain Hardwood
 

Attachments

#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
Oops….didnt realize this was in the turning forum. I 2nd the recommendation for Vince's woodnwonders, but with a NZ locale doubt that it helps. Not sure what size turnings you are doing but I find 2" dia pads with 2-3/8" discs handles up to the 14" dia turnings Ive done, and the smaller size may be cheaper to use.

Wish posters would state locale in initial posting - I cant make source recommendations for those outside the US.
 
#14 ·
Anything from the US to NZ seems to cost an arm and a leg for shipping these days. For consumer orders anyway. Can guarantee it won t be here before Christmas =(.

This is as far I got with the hacked pads yesterday. Haven t done the punch yet will just wear out a pair of scissors for now. I glued up one pad with spray adhesive I d say the foam is going to go with the paper when its times up. Prob not the best material I might need to order something more dense

Table Wood Sewing Wood stain Hardwood


- JoshNZ
Question, the black mark on the T nut, is that a tack weld? Sharp looking sanding pad mandrels by the way.
 

Attachments

#16 ·
I'm sure its obvious but it is a piece of scrap with a hole for the T nut bored into it, then a bolt with a nut and washer on it, screwed into the T nut from the other side. Then I've backed the nut back down the bolt so it clamps against the wood, cut the head of the bolt off, and mounted it in a Jacobs chuck on the lathe and turned to shape.

I trimmed the foam on the next pads with a razor blade with the lathe turning at 50RPM or so, made a much nicer finish than the chisel did on that first one. All seems to work ok, I'm just not sure on the life of that foam I would like to find something more sealed (butyl rubber as someone suggested probably), and still not sure how the spray adhesive is going to work for swapping discs. Fingers crossed
 
#17 ·
#18 ·
Got done with the first two bowls they definitely work well however when it came time to change the discs the foam came with the disc. Will try another material as backing pad.

Timberly and carbatec are prob our two main wood turning suppliers I was looking at his stuff. Still wondering if there was a way to do it cheaper. How many discs does this modern hook/loop backing get through before it's losing traction?
 
#19 ·
Dependant on the backing pad and velcro used. Had great luck with ones from Vince, but cant not readily available to you. Use a back up pad in between the stemmed pad and the disc. cheaper to replace than the whole stem and pad, and the come in various durometers and profiles. I know Ive went through hundreds of discs on one, but dont have a count. I have used them incorrectly, got them too hot, and had the velcro to foam adhesive slip, but used correctly they last a long time.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top