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Forum topic by jtp79 posted 12-07-2018 03:20 PM 727 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jtp79

43 posts in 736 days


12-07-2018 03:20 PM

I have found this saw about 4 hours from me. The woman who has it, has no idea of the year model or anything. She has said she can video it running and let me hear it before I make the trip. I have been looking for a used unisaw or powermatic 66 at a decent price for years. What do I need to inspect on this saw before I hand her cash? Also, anyone have any idea on the year model or the overall condition from these pics?

Thanks in advance

https://scontent.fcha1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/42967043_1503464913019059_380227158292824064_n.jpg?_nc_cat=105&_nc_ht=scontent.fcha1-1.fna&oh=22b4ba1f6d193ef26afca161f86586ca&oe=5CA1470E

https://scontent.fcha1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/43137861_1503464973019053_8143298400268320768_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_ht=scontent.fcha1-1.fna&oh=90c8fc60205f361c9c9839acbd62245d&oe=5CA27A7E


20 replies so far

View EdDantes's profile

EdDantes

42 posts in 114 days


#1 posted 12-07-2018 03:48 PM

If you get the serial number off the saw (not the motor), you should be able to figure out production year (details here).

Looks dusty, but in good shape. Otherwise the things to look for are deep pitting on the table and smoothness of the gears for tilt/height, any sounds while running that suggest the bearings are worn. If you were so inclined, you could bring a gauge and check arbor run-out. Is their a fence with all the pieces? Splitter and guard?

Even if some of that stuff seems like a problem, it can be fixed/replaced. The issue then becomes what it’s worth minus the cost/time it takes to refurbish.

View jtp79's profile

jtp79

43 posts in 736 days


#2 posted 12-07-2018 03:58 PM



If you get the serial number off the saw (not the motor), you should be able to figure out production year (details here).

Looks dusty, but in good shape. Otherwise the things to look for are deep pitting on the table and smoothness of the gears for tilt/height, any sounds while running that suggest the bearings are worn. If you were so inclined, you could bring a gauge and check arbor run-out. Is their a fence with all the pieces? Splitter and guard?

Even if some of that stuff seems like a problem, it can be fixed/replaced. The issue then becomes what it s worth minus the cost/time it takes to refurbish.

- EdDantes

There is a fence. It is in the second picture. So fence is included and mitre gauge. I do not know about a splitter or guard. Im guessing the saw belonged to her husband as she does not seem to know much about it. She had it listed at 700 but is down to 500 now.

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jtp79

43 posts in 736 days


#3 posted 12-07-2018 03:59 PM

Where would the serial number be on the saw?

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jonah

1926 posts in 3502 days


#4 posted 12-07-2018 04:18 PM

It will be on the nameplate on the cabinet.

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jonah

1926 posts in 3502 days


#5 posted 12-07-2018 04:21 PM

It looks like a fairly standard right tilt Unisaw. They made them from like the ‘20s through the ‘90s. Most of the parts are interchangeable.

The fence is the old style with the round tubes instead of the modern Biesemeyer style. It’s serviceable, but not great. Aside from that, the saw looks good. It’s a 3HP single phase motor, which is good. The only thing to check other than the motor is the arbor bearings.

View shampeon's profile

shampeon

1885 posts in 2386 days


#6 posted 12-07-2018 04:33 PM

At $500 for a 3HP single phase with both cast iron extensions and what looks like a mobile base, in good shape, that’s a pretty decent deal, even with the JetLock fence.

I’d take a section of 2×4, go fire it up to make sure it cuts under load, then hand over the 5 bills, then keep an eye out for a Biesenmeyer fence on CL.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

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TheFridge

10747 posts in 1689 days


#7 posted 12-07-2018 06:33 PM

Ditto. I’d give the guts a decent brushing to check for cracks in the castings after I took the top off and dropped the motor for hauling.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7051 posts in 2402 days


#8 posted 12-07-2018 06:43 PM

$500 isn’t too bad of a price, but figure on adding at least another $100 after purchase for new bearings, belts and a blade or two. It’s also missing the blade guard/splitter, a lock knob and the motor cover… none of which are really critical, but an added expense if you want to replace them. I’d use its neglected condition and missing bits to try and negotiate a lower price… like around $400 as an initial offer, and see where it goes from there.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: Look around when you are there – you might find some of the missing bits and/or additional accessories laying around the shop that the wife is unaware of.

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View shampeon's profile

shampeon

1885 posts in 2386 days


#9 posted 12-07-2018 08:26 PM

The missing height lock knob is being used on the JetLock fence microadjust for whatever reason.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

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MrUnix

7051 posts in 2402 days


#10 posted 12-07-2018 09:09 PM

The missing height lock knob is being used on the JetLock fence microadjust for whatever reason.
- shampeon

I don’t believe so… that is the period correct knob for the jet lock fence, and while the knobs themselves may be the same, the shafts they are attached to are way different. See this thread over at OWWM for pictures of the parts involved: Jet Lock Fence Disassembly

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Peteybadboy's profile

Peteybadboy

522 posts in 2153 days


#11 posted 12-07-2018 09:15 PM

I think it’s a good deal. While there check to see what other stuff including lumber she may want to get rid of.

-- Petey

View jtp79's profile

jtp79

43 posts in 736 days


#12 posted 12-07-2018 09:25 PM

How bad is this fence? Are we still talking about a large upgrade from a bench top craftsman? Which i have not had any trouble with unless cutting thick hardwood. Is this saw with this fence still better than the Ridgid 4512 or the comparable delta from lowes?

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

602 posts in 1697 days


#13 posted 12-07-2018 09:34 PM

The triangle center wheels, vented front door, black DELTA only name plate, and lack of upgraded Unifence; show that it is 70’s made unit, possibly early 80’s (after Rockwell brand was dropped).

Around here a 3HP 1PH Unisaw in running condition with mobile base that has a price of $500 would be last half a day or less before sold. Mobile base will cost you $70-100 for saw, so that saw is selling for <$450?
My guess it is already sold, since the OP was 6 hours ago.

Best Luck.

-- I'm an engineer not a woodworker, but I can randomly find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

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MrUnix

7051 posts in 2402 days


#14 posted 12-07-2018 09:53 PM

The triangle center wheels, vented front door, black DELTA only name plate, and lack of upgraded Unifence; show that it is 70 s made unit, possibly early 80 s (after Rockwell brand was dropped).
- CaptainKlutz

It was built somewhere between 1984 and 1988. Logo places it as being built sometime after 1984 when Delta was purchased by Pentair and started using the triangle logo (and the company was renamed to “Delta International Machinery Corporation”). And 1988 was the last year they had a dust door.

How bad is this fence? Are we still talking about a large upgrade from a bench top craftsman? Which i have not had any trouble with unless cutting thick hardwood. Is this saw with this fence still better than the Ridgid 4512 or the comparable delta from lowes?
- jtp79

When the fence is properly adjusted, they are not bad at all. They actually are a T-square type fence, although many people don’t consider them as such due to the rear hook. Regardless of fence, the Unisaw is a super-huge step up from a plastic bench top craftsman saw, and still a big step up from anything you would be able to buy at the BORG.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View jonah's profile

jonah

1926 posts in 3502 days


#15 posted 12-08-2018 12:21 AM

I didn’t see the price before. I’d put four hundred dollar bills on the table and take it. Even if you have to replace all the wearing parts (bearings and belts), you’ll still make out for less than $500 and have some money to spend on a good blade.

Pro tip: any auto parts store or Grainger will have the right belt for the saw. Just bring the old one in and have them match it exactly.

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