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Forum topic by dustie posted 12-03-2018 02:46 PM 598 views 0 times favorited 23 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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dustie

6 posts in 12 days


12-03-2018 02:46 PM

I’m new to this site and relatively new to bandsaw work. I was given a 16” Mini Max nine years ago but have had nowhere to set it up until now. The saw has been stored properly and is in good shape with a sharp 1/2” blade.

I have experimented with some resaw cuts resulting in many questions. Much has been written and videoed about band saw drift but I’ve focused on the Carter Tool videos by Alex Snodgrass. He insists “There should Never be drift on a bandsaw” if the setup is done correctly”. Mostly he insists the deepest part of the blade gullet should be centered on the upper tire “the crown” and that thrust bearing and side guides be properly adjusted.

I have carefully followed each of his procedures and still cannot successfully resaw using the fence because of drift.
Should I consider his theory is incorrect and that drift must be corrected by first “making a free hand cut, measure the angle, compare the angle to the fence angle, and adjust the fence accordingly?”

The wheels on a Mini Max are flat not crowned. Does a flat tyre change his theory of blade placement?

Any advice appreciated


23 replies so far

View Planeman40's profile

Planeman40

1307 posts in 2963 days


#1 posted 12-03-2018 03:54 PM

I have been using a bandsaw now for nearly 60 years. My WW-2 vintage cast iron Walker-Turner bandsaw has flat tires and works beautifully. My position on all of this is let the blade find a stable position it likes on its own with the guides moved away from the blade. Then I move the guides up to the blade and adjust them to the blade, NOT the blade to the guides! Bandsaw “drift” to me is once the blade is running stably and smoothly, it seems to cut a slight bit off-square with the table. Not a problem. Just slightly adjust your fence angle to work with the blade “drift”. On the other hand, you can fight the problem and spend scads of time doing it with the likely outcome being no change in the end.

Now I know others will say this is wrong, but I happily go on accurately making things on my bandsaw with no problem at all while these “others” are still driving themselves nuts trying to correct something that doesn’t really need correcting. And one more thing. I rarely use a bandsaw fence. I have learned how to make good straight cuts to a pencil line. Not hard to do. But a fence is necessary for re-sawing a board or log. The fence still works fine for this when aligned with the blade cutting preference.

-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

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Steve

753 posts in 784 days


#2 posted 12-03-2018 03:54 PM

what type of blade are you using? and what type of wood are you trying to resaw?

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WhyMe

1073 posts in 1763 days


#3 posted 12-03-2018 04:13 PM

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Phil32

271 posts in 105 days


#4 posted 12-03-2018 04:21 PM

If the bandsaw was unused for nine years, you might consider the “tires,” the rubber or plastic bands on the wheels. They could be breaking down in a way that causes the drift. Otherwise I would suspect the blade guides. If the guides have ever contacted the tooth set of the blade, it could affect the tracking.

-- Phil Allin - Ventura, CA

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Aj2

1879 posts in 2000 days


#5 posted 12-03-2018 04:55 PM

Always start with the blade. Get a new one and if that’s one is new gets a second one.
Its always the blade unless there is something horribly wrong with the saw.

-- Aj

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dustie

6 posts in 12 days


#6 posted 12-03-2018 05:04 PM

All good advice, many thanks. There are conflicting videos out there about correcting drift but the consensus, like Planeman suggests, is to position the fence related to the direction the blade is tracking.

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splintergroup

2429 posts in 1424 days


#7 posted 12-03-2018 05:08 PM

I have been using a Mini-Max 16” for over the past 10 years.
A lot of good info in the Snodgrass video!

The tires are crowned, just not very much. (the crown is cut into the wheels). For resawing I recommend at least a 3/4” blade set up so the center of the blade is centered on the tires. Narrow blades are fine, but more sensitive to where they ride on the wheels.
Get everything set up then try the free hand cut to get an idea of any bias in the cut. The fence can be adjusted for this.
Generally all the setup adjustments stay put on these saws and you can swap through blades without any changes.

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dustie

6 posts in 12 days


#8 posted 12-03-2018 06:08 PM

Thanks Splinter. The tires do appear to be slightly crowned but it’s hard to notice. In the Mini-Max manual it says the blade’s teeth should extend slightly over the front of the top wheel. That is completely different positioning than the Snodgrass instructions. Why would the manual’s instructions be so different?
Also in his video, he says that even if the fence is 1/4” out of parallel it shouldn’t affect resawing.

View DrDirt's profile

DrDirt

4511 posts in 3944 days


#9 posted 12-03-2018 06:23 PM

I resaw on a Delta 14inch saw with a 1/2 inch 3-4 TPI blade.

I have had similar issues with it not tracking, to fix it, I start with the with the guides still set back and the thrust bearing not touching, just tweak the tracking until it cuts straight.
I find this easier than tweaking the fence, but I also regularly use some jigs that operate on the miter slot (Circle Cutter and a resaw sled), so I am more of a Fortune/Snodgrass follower.

Adjusting a fence is easy… tweaking all your jigs everytime you change blades… not so much.

Here is a 9 minute Michael Fortune, FWW video – - He makes a great observation, that may be affecting you, that when people move the saw around… they tend to grab it by the fence rails or table…so the table itself can be tweaked out of position.
https://www.facebook.com/finewoodworkingmagazine/videos/1791256594277530/

-- “The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” Mark Twain

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splintergroup

2429 posts in 1424 days


#10 posted 12-03-2018 07:59 PM



Thanks Splinter. The tires do appear to be slightly crowned but it s hard to notice. In the Mini-Max manual it says the blade s teeth should extend slightly over the front of the top wheel. That is completely different positioning than the Snodgrass instructions. Why would the manual s instructions be so different?
Also in his video, he says that even if the fence is 1/4” out of parallel it shouldn t affect resawing.

- dustie

I run my wide (1-1/4”) blades with the teeth hanging over, but all my < 1” blades are more than 3 TPI so I don’t work too much about the tooth set being crushed out. If you have your 1/2” blades teeth hanging off the tire you might not be running the blade squarely since it all would be froward of the crown. Have you tried running it centered on the tire?

Also be sure you have enough tension. The gauge is notoriously inaccurate, I typically need to double the reading.

View Tony1212's profile

Tony1212

250 posts in 1936 days


#11 posted 12-04-2018 02:39 PM

A lot of drift also has to do with the set of the teeth. Your blade may be very sharp, but if there is any variance to their set, it will wander. Blades aren’t that expensive. Can you purchase one from a well reviewed manufacturer and see if you still have the drift?

If the blade is not the issue, then you have a backup in case you accidentally snap one.

-- Tony, SW Chicago Suburbs

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

3171 posts in 1683 days


#12 posted 12-04-2018 04:54 PM

Forget Snodgrass. You are not the only person he has frustrated with his “one way fits all” approach. For one things, not all bandsaws are made with coplanar wheels, and second they don’t all have crowned tires. Third, I wonder why the manuals for both my saws (Rikon and Jet) have a section called “Adjusting for Drift”.

[rant]So its no surprise that I totally disagree with the idea that a bandsaw should have no drift. It is not possible to adjust it out with Snodgrass’ methods with some saws, and second, so what? You just adjust the fence or table to it. I’ve been doing that for 30 years it takes all of 1 minute.

WADR, IMO it just hype for ww’ing shows. [/rant]

I think the best way is to adjust for drift is with the TABLE, not the FENCE. You do this by setting the fence parallel to the slot, then loosen the table from the trunnion and adjust the fence till you are sawing parallel to the blade track. With this method, a new blade can be tracked back into zero drift.

Michael Fortune has a video on this I recommend you check it out.

The wider the blade you use when doing this, the more accurate you will be.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View Planeman40's profile

Planeman40

1307 posts in 2963 days


#13 posted 12-04-2018 05:04 PM

An interesting approach, IF you can adjust your table that way. I don’t think my bandsaw table can do that, but I am going to check.

-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

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dustie

6 posts in 12 days


#14 posted 12-04-2018 05:54 PM

RWE, Yes I can loosen my table from the trunnion and have the placed the fence parallel to the mitre slot.

Your next instruction is to “adjust the fence until you are cutting parallel to the blade track”.

Sorry I’m so thick headed but please describe this process more carefully. And thanks for posting!

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splintergroup

2429 posts in 1424 days


#15 posted 12-04-2018 09:23 PM

The best thing in my mind about this is you preserve the illusion of the blade remaining parallel to the miter slot. Useful if you ever want to use the slot accurately.

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