Antique glazed finish on cabinet Advice needed.

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Forum topic by juicegoose posted 09-08-2011 08:19 PM 2514 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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118 posts in 3302 days

09-08-2011 08:19 PM

I’m to the finishing stage on a project for the wife and was going to attempt the antique glazed finish,not the distressed but the dark cracks and corners style. Most videos and articles I’ve read or watched online deal more with distressing the piece first. Please read over my process and let me know if i’m doing anything wrong also if anyone has done this style of finish and can offer some advice i would appreciate it.

The project will be sprayed with a layer of seal coat sanded slightly and then have a couple coats of General finishes antique white sprayed on.

Next i was going to spray a clearcoat over the paint, let it dry and then wipe on the general finishes Van Dyke brown.

Finally a couple top coats to finish everything off.

Couple questions.
1. I’ve heard from some camps to spray a clearcoat between the paint and the glaze so the glaze doesn’t stick to the paint as much as all i’m wanting is a slight tinting of the flat surfaces and dark nooks and crannies. Has anyone found this to be true?
2. The top of the piece has a rope moulding inset into a dado and there is also some flutted moulding along the outside edges. What technique have you all found to work best for getting the glaze onto the rope and decorative moulding and then wiping it off?

I know I will be making some practices pieces and testing before the main project I figured wise men might have wise words.

here is a quick picture showing some of the decorative moulding. Picture was taken in the build process.

3 replies so far

View Kent Shepherd's profile

Kent Shepherd

2718 posts in 3526 days

#1 posted 09-08-2011 10:57 PM

You don’t need a clear coat if you use a paint that has some gloss to it. I have used a flat off-white lacquer, but I wanted more of the glaze to adhere to the paint. The higher the gloss, the more glaze you can wipe off.

I would use a paint brush to get into the mouldings. Use a lint free rag for wiping the glaxe. You don’t want fuzz in the glaze. I like cheesecloth. You can control some of the glaxe in corners by using a clean good quality brush.

Maybe some of this helps. If you have other questions just ask. I find it hard to answer sometimes not knowing what your experience level is., but would be glad to clarify. I used to refinish furniture professionlly and did a lot of antiquing. (Years ago) I still use glaze on many of my stained pieces now, which is done the same way.


View Cosmicsniper's profile


2202 posts in 3398 days

#2 posted 09-09-2011 04:43 AM

You really do need to apply the glaze to a film coat. It has to lay atop the piece in order to properly wipe it around. Otherwise, it will stain areas you don’t want colored and the glaze will look spotty in the areas you want it. I would be especially careful with white painted underneath.

I’m doing the same treatment to my own kitchen cabinets. The other day, my wife and I had a glazing party by using small artists brushes to paint in cracks (I recommend the same for you) and a slightly damp cloth to wipe it down to achieve the gradient/taper/sunburst we needed on several cabinet doors and drawer fronts. We were rolling along and my wife started on another door, but this time the glaze didn’t respond the same way. It immediate got absorbed into the regularly stained areas and became a real problem that I could only fix with going back to bare wood. Of course, what happened was that the door in question got mixed in with the sealed doors and I didn’t realize that it lacked that important sealcoat of shellac (which I tend to use for such barrier coats, chiefly because of its drying speed).

And this is when using more of a “paint on, wipe off gently and quickly” technique. If you smeared it on and waited a while for it to “flash,” as is commonly done with a glaze, then the problem could have been much worse.

Now I’ve glazed many projects over the years without hardly any problems, but the one time I did have an issue was because I failed to create that film barrier over the colored undercoat.

If in doubt, finish a test board using all those techniques and options. Watch what happens when you try one with the glaze applied immediately to that white paint. You won’t like the result.

-- jay,

View stratman's profile


9 posts in 2699 days

#3 posted 09-09-2011 06:04 AM

Thanks. appreciate the info. I’m going to try it.

-- stratman

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