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Table saw sled - part I

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Forum topic by niki posted 04-12-2008 07:11 PM 4039 views 15 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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niki

426 posts in 2825 days


04-12-2008 07:11 PM

Good day

I have only one sled that is dedicated to frame cutting at 45° and because it cuts so perfect, I don’t want to remove the triangle and use it also for normal crosscutting.

Actually, I have two “half sleds” and sliding table so I don’t need a sled for crosscutting.

I made this sled with small pieces ripping and crosscutting in mind.

As you’ll see my TS is not “normal” and I have only one narrow miter slot so I had to make an “Outer runner” that runs on the table edge.
The benefit of such a method is that first, the runner in the miter slot does not have to “fit snugly” and second, if the sled runners gets loose (play), I can always “re-tight” (or loosen, in case of humidity changes effect) or even change the “outer runner” to a new one without effecting the “Squareness” of the sled.

Because the subject is very long…I mean, many pics (above 150), I divided it to 4 or 5 parts that I’ll post it in a few different threads.

So, lets start….building the sled…

Regards
niki

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10 replies so far

View Yettiman's profile

Yettiman

163 posts in 2483 days


#1 posted 04-12-2008 07:31 PM

Very nice.

And as usual the piccies were excellent.

May I ask why you had the outer runner?

Was it to prevent possible strain on the slot runner?

-- Keep your tools sharp, your mind sharper and the coffee hot

View John in SD's profile

John in SD

140 posts in 2558 days


#2 posted 04-12-2008 07:44 PM

Thanks Niki….....as always great information

-- Life used to be soooo much simpler!!!!

View niki's profile

niki

426 posts in 2825 days


#3 posted 04-12-2008 08:42 PM

Thank you so much for you kind words

Yettiman
My miter slot is only 10mm (3/8”) and I don’t like to make the runner to “Fit snugly”, it may bind with weather changes….not only but, after some time, the runner will become loose and I shall have to make a new sled.

The “outer runner” is so easy to make, it keeps the sled tight and I can push with both hands (in case of one runner, I must push at the runner line to avoid binding) and as I said, I can always re-adjust the “outer runner” to eliminate any play or binding.

Regards
niki

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Yettiman

163 posts in 2483 days


#4 posted 04-12-2008 08:48 PM

Thanks for the info and help niki, really appreciated.

I learn a lot here

-- Keep your tools sharp, your mind sharper and the coffee hot

View GaryK's profile

GaryK

10262 posts in 2734 days


#5 posted 04-12-2008 09:02 PM

Great looking sled, Niki.

There is one thing I would add though. When I made mine I made the runners just long enough to
hit the slots in the extension slots at the back of the tablesaw. When they hit the back of my sled
was just part the halfway point on the saw blade. Then I added the block at the back of the fence
to guard the blade.

Sometime people are so intent on their cut they might not notice their hand in the way of the blade.
This will prevent accidents in two ways.

1. The runners prevent the blade from being completely exposed.
2. The guard at the back of the fence protects the operator from what is exposed.

Here you can see the block at the back fence:

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

View niki's profile

niki

426 posts in 2825 days


#6 posted 04-12-2008 09:31 PM

Thank you for your comments Gary

Well, as I said, “part I”....on the next “episodes” you’ll see my solutions.

Your sled looks like a panel cutting sled with at least 24” capacity.
My sled is much smaller and as I said, “with small pieces ripping and crosscutting in mind”.

As for big boards, I have this one with 39” capacity….did I mention “Euro Prices” :-)
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Regards
niki

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7930 posts in 2798 days


#7 posted 04-13-2008 12:04 AM

Niki,

Well, you’ve done it again! You’re just like our Energizer (battery) Bunny… you just “keep on running”!
Great job as usual…

I noticed your Shop-made triangles and Clamps… Very good!

I knew about your triangles… I have apparently missed your Clamp making procedure.
Looks like you’re using about 3/8” threaded rod. I can see how they work… Just not clear if you’re using plane ole Nuts and/or Threaded Inserts, etc.
Do you have a link to where you cover the Clamps?

Thank you very much for your input.

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View niki's profile

niki

426 posts in 2825 days


#8 posted 04-13-2008 12:17 AM

Hi Joe

Thank you for your kind words

Well, the link to the clamps is very short….......
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/1334

And yeap, it’s 3/8” threaded rod (or what we call here M10)

Best Regards
niki

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 2568 days


#9 posted 04-13-2008 01:58 AM

Hi Niki,

Again a very instructional post. I have one of these in my future as well and would have simply used double sided tape to temporarily attach the runner. But using CA glue appears to be a better approach and it effectively fixes the runner immediately as opposed to the tape which would require drilling, screwing, demounting and then gluing.

Nice tip and I am looking forward to your next installment.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View Grumpy's profile

Grumpy

19693 posts in 2597 days


#10 posted 04-13-2008 03:18 AM

A great jig Niki & well presented details.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

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