My father's birthday is coming up. I suggested we rescue his late father's old 8" craftsman table saw (model no. 113.22400) from his father's workshop. While I'm in town for the holiday, I plan to clean, lubricate, and set up the saw - then assess its condition. It has a typical Craftsman 1/2 hp, 115 volt, 3450 rpm motor, and appears to be stock.
What accessories/retrofits would you prioritize to increase the saw's safety? Thankfully, he is quite safety minded (having worked his entire career in the chemicals industry), so he'll be quite appreciative of gifts of that kind. He is not a woodworker, and doesn't have any projects in mind that he wants to start immediately, but I'd feel a lot better knowing it's sorted before leaving town. In all likelihood, it will be used in his basement.
He already has safety glasses. With my limited time here, I was thinking about trying to wet-sand the plastic guard cover, which are turned amber and cloudy, so that the guard cover can be reinstalled.
Then, for the upcoming holidays, I was thinking in terms of a cyclone separator for his shop vac, an out-feed table/support, and perhaps a paddle switch.
Am I prioritizing the right things? If not, what would you purchase beforehand?
Wiring a paddle switch is a good idea. Also the shopvac Dust Deputy is very useful. Respirator probably isn't needed if he's got a shop vac attached. You'll also want to get a brand new blade for it…not sure where to find 8" blades these days.
I appreciate the input so far. It looks as though Freud also has some 8" blades as well with a 5/8" arbor, (although I do think more highly of Forrest).
Since it's such a low-power motor, would you recommend I get a thin-kerf blade? Freud has a thin-kerf version, Forrest only has a 1/8" kerf in 8" diameter.
The thin kerf blade won't hurt, but a lot will depend on the type of wood he is planning on cutting. I'm not sure how much money I'd put into blades until I knew he was going to be getting plenty of use out of the saw.
Steve, that's a good point. I put in an order for a $40 Freud, thin kerf, general purpose blade. (Even if he ends up never using the thing, I'll use it when I'm visiting, working on projects around the house for them).
Steve, that s a good point. I put in an order for a $40 Freud, thin kerf, general purpose blade. (Even if he ends up never using the thing, I ll use it when I m visiting, working on projects around the house for them).
I agree with the recommendation of adding a paddle switch.
Locate it on the front of the machine on the left side so it can be bumped off with your leg.
Align the trunnion so the blade is parallel to the miter slots.
I am pretty sure the slop in the through holes is all you have to work with so hopefully this will be enough.
While the fence on this machine is interesting it is a pinch style clamp and chances are it will not be reliably parallel to the blade.
If it's not reliably parallel you will have to check it every time you lock it and never let it angle towards the back of the blade.
Good luck with it and I would be interested in knowing how this all turns out.
Not sure how old ur dad is or what his shop lay out is like but a good mobile base for easy moving with be good. If u could attach a side leaf for a router that would be good too
Feather board (s) that ride in the miter slot
Sliding auxiliary fence for the miter fence
Zero clearance blade insert (s)
If it is belt drive, replace the belt with a link belt (smooth quiet operation)
Out feed table or support
Charlie H. - I was thinking of hunting around for a Delta T2 fence set up, but I'd appreciate any other fences to consider retrofitting. The C-man mechanism is interesting for sure, but I'm not optimistic it'll "pass inspection" when I get to go over everything in greater detail.
JCamp - He's 64 - strong and healthy enough but his back will act up every know and than from an old injury from the Ford plant. I agree about a mobile base. The saw actually doesn't have any wings at present so a side leaf or something similar is a must.
bilyo - Are link belts actually inherently quieter? Or are they reputed to vibrate less because they don't get deformed after a long time with the stress of suspending the motor? I do think the belt will have to be replaced (It had held that motor in one position for 6+ years before getting it out of my grandfather's basement).
ppg677 - agreed. I'm currently debating make vs. buy for the splitter.
Lots of good suggestions. Hard to add more.
hmm…
If it were my dad:
I skip the upgrades and buy him a new Saw Stop 1.5HP contractor saw with mobile base.
It would have most all the upgrades mentioned above, except a new combination blade and the cross cut/miter sleds.
Apologies in advance, the holiday spirit overwhelmed me thinking about my Dad and had to suggest this.
bilyo - Are link belts actually inherently quieter? Or are they reputed to vibrate less because they don t get deformed after a long time with the stress of suspending the motor? I do think the belt will have to be replaced (It had held that motor in one position for 6+ years before getting it out of my grandfather s basement).
I can only speak from experience. They are more flexible and, therefore, smoother and quieter. BTW, I have found no difference, except price, between the HF link belt and the red one sold elsewhere. Be sure to measure the width of the pulleys in order to get the correct width belt (widest point between the pulley rims).
CaptainKlutz - How I wish I could buy something like that for my dad. Unfortunately, it'd be way out of my price range. It is to be seen how much he actually ends up using it as well. I just knew he felt guilty that he let it sit in his father's basement all these years.
Bilyo - thanks for the pointer to check out HF. As we all know, it's real hit or miss with them, so I appreciate any time someone points out the real value-buys among the junk.
Hairy - I had planned to build a crosscut sled - good call. I appreciate the tip on using 7 1/4" blades, I'm filing that away for future reference.
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