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Sanded an oiled cutting board, now it is all sticky

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Forum topic by ppg677 posted 11-16-2018 02:19 AM 890 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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ppg677

209 posts in 1062 days


11-16-2018 02:19 AM

Hi, I applied mineral oil to a cutting board. I saw sanding marks and decided I wanted to take another sanding pass. I did that with the random orbit sander after the board was dry to the touch a day or so after applying the oil.

But now this cutting board no longer has that hard/dry feeling. Sanding somewhat fresh oiled wood has made the board slightly soft/sticky and no amount of rubbing it with cotton fixes it.

Any amount of sanding leaves the sandpaper with a coated mess.

Any ideas?

If it weren’t a cutting board, I’d attempt to clean with mineral spirits.


7 replies so far

View sawdustjunkie's profile

sawdustjunkie

392 posts in 1923 days


#1 posted 11-16-2018 03:30 AM

Try cleaning it with Denatured Alcohol several times. Once the mineral oil is applied,it will load up the sand paper.

-- Steve: Franklin, WI

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jutsFL

103 posts in 47 days


#2 posted 11-16-2018 04:05 AM

Hmmm… I had a similar problem when one of my last boards was a bit off (flat), it had a tip from corner to corner. They were already oiled as well. Sanding ended up like you found out. Ended up with a light pass on the planer to clear it up. Not sure if that’s an option for you?

-- I've quickly learned that being a woodworker isn't about making flawless work, rather it's fixing all the mistakes you made so that it appears flawless to others! Jay - FL

View bigJohninvegas's profile

bigJohninvegas

521 posts in 1668 days


#3 posted 11-16-2018 04:18 AM

pure mineral oil has no drying agents in it. It will never fully dry. Maybe you can wipe it off, and then use some alcohol like Steve suggests, or a light pass through the planer.
I use a couple of coats of watco danish oil on all my boards, and hand wet sand each coat with the last piece of paper I used on my finish sander. about 5 minutes it starts to get tacky. then wipe it a dry as you can get it.
It then takes a good week, Longer in the colder months to cure.
There is mixed reading out there that will state that it is food safe once it fully cures. I am good with it, some are not. Tried and tru finishes claim to be food safe.

-- John

View Rich's profile

Rich

3902 posts in 795 days


#4 posted 11-16-2018 05:05 AM

Use the mineral spirits. Actually, since real mineral spirits are hard to find (it’s all low odor, meaning the useful solvents have been removed), I’d recommend naphtha. Don’t worry about it being food safe since the solvents will evaporate.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

2134 posts in 3150 days


#5 posted 11-16-2018 06:27 AM

I’m with Rich, I’d go with the mineral spirits or paint thinner. Let it vapor off, then take another stab at it.

View eflanders's profile

eflanders

318 posts in 2056 days


#6 posted 11-16-2018 01:30 PM

You might also try cooking the board at 150-200’ F. Cook it for 2 hours. This draws the oil deeper into the wood so that it isn’t all on the surface. It also will kill any bacteria and slightly harden the wood.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

4821 posts in 2515 days


#7 posted 11-16-2018 04:17 PM



You might also try cooking the board at 150-200 F. Cook it for 2 hours. This draws the oil deeper into the wood so that it isn t all on the surface. It also will kill any bacteria and slightly harden the wood.

- eflanders

Will the glue take the heat?

http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Data/Materials/GlueTest/gluetest.html

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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