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using Epoxy to fill in cracks and holes for Juniper coffee table

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Forum topic by thatlabguy posted 1093 days ago 1645 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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thatlabguy

84 posts in 1326 days


1093 days ago

anyone who has worked with Juniper knows how many holes and divets a slab can have and the ones I have cut for coffee tables have several cracks/holes on the side of the slab. I am using epoxy to fill in the holes but, am having trouble finding a means of keeping the epoxy from running all over the place. tape doesn’t seem to hold it in very well as the epoxy reacts with the glue so am looking for ideas of how to make better use of the epoxy since it isn’t the cheapest product to use.
Any ideas??

-- larry@juniperworksnaturally.com


7 replies so far

View Aaron Taylor's profile

Aaron Taylor

37 posts in 1783 days


#1 posted 1092 days ago

Larry,

Tape wax paper to where you need to keep the epoxy in. I have used it many times and it is wonderful to work with. You might have some come out but if you make your paper extra large over the area and then tape all around it should hold just fine. I usually use a clear packing tape to to the edges of the paper. Also if you aren’t using it; a faster setting epoxy will help it from running too far. The down side to that is you have to keep mixing up epoxy if you have lots of holes and cracks.

Hope this helps.

Aaron

-- "Insanity runs in my family. It practically gallops."--Cary Grant from the movie Arsenic and Old Lace

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

5556 posts in 2062 days


#2 posted 1092 days ago

Larry,
I use a syringe from West Systems for the smaller, more complicated areas.
Similar to what Aaron said, I use packing tape too, but that’s all I use. I cover the void and burnish it close to the void edges. Then cut a slit with an Exacto and squirt in the epoxy with the syringe. For large holes, I cut away enough tape to pour from the mixing cup.
I’ve never experienced any problems with the epoxy reacting with the tape adhesive. Burnishing the edges doesn’t allow the epoxy to creep under. I use West Systems and System Three.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

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thatlabguy

84 posts in 1326 days


#3 posted 1092 days ago

not sure what you mean by burnishing the edges

-- larry@juniperworksnaturally.com

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thatlabguy

84 posts in 1326 days


#4 posted 1092 days ago

i like the wax paper idea. someone else suggested it also

-- larry@juniperworksnaturally.com

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

5556 posts in 2062 days


#5 posted 1092 days ago

Larry,
By burnish, I mean to rub with a dowel or piece of wooden shim stock close to the edge of the void. Seals the tape so the epoxy doesn’t seep under the tape.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

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thatlabguy

84 posts in 1326 days


#6 posted 1087 days ago

thanks for all the help. I am almost finished with this particular slab of wood and now would like to know what grit sandpaper to use on the epoxy. Look forward to the help, thanks

-- larry@juniperworksnaturally.com

View Aaron Taylor's profile

Aaron Taylor

37 posts in 1783 days


#7 posted 1087 days ago

I just sand with whatever final grit (usually 220) that I use on the rest of the piece and it finishes out just fine.

Of course we all want to see you finished product when you get done.

Aaron

-- "Insanity runs in my family. It practically gallops."--Cary Grant from the movie Arsenic and Old Lace

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