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Is this Table Saw worth the money?????

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Forum topic by Kristoffer posted 1047 days ago 4386 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Kristoffer

670 posts in 1802 days


1047 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question tablesaw

Well, after growing out of my first TS ($99 big box beginner), I picked up a used Jet JTS-10. After a new belt and an alignment, I loved it, trusted it, loved it and spilled it. I brought it back from a job site and set it back on it’s stand in a hurry without bolting it back down. A week later, I went to roll it out of the way and…. CRASH!!! It fell off the stand and bent the rear rail, right ext. table and the whole apparatus that aligns the blade and holds the motor. I tried talking to customer service at Jet to get a parts price list and repair cost at a local tool shop. I got a parts diagram, but without prices and the tool repair guys wanted to charge just to look at it….. That’s when my fiance said “Well, if it’s going to cost more than we paid for it ($175 GREAT DEAL), just get a new one, a brand new one, this time”. We figured we’d get it when we moved into our new house (we’ve been trying to buy a house for about seven months now), since you don’t really have any place to put it right now. Now that we’re closer than ever to closing and I thought that I had my next saw picked out, but (like always) I was wrong.

Keep in mind that we are buying a house this year and getting married next year. I’m not buying my dream saw. I just want something that I trust for safety and that makes accurate cuts.

I thought that I was going to get the PORTER-CABLE 15-Amp 10” Table Saw (I can’t find the model number right now). But I’ve read reviews about there not being a way to adjust the blade to the miter slots. I have read a lot of other “great” reviews 5/5 stars and so on, but I’ve heard that this saw is not actually made by PC, but the name was bought and put on it.
Short story longer. My options are:

I found the Grizzly G0715P 10” Hybrid Table Saw, Polar Bear Series® http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P that is “only” $250 more. I shouldn’t need to take my saw to job sites anymore. AND IT LOOKS LIKE A GREAT SAW!!!!!!!!!!!!!

1. Buy the “Porter Cable” TS and use it until I can save up for a cabinet saw that will stay in my shop.
2. Buy the grizzly and just NOT take my TS to any job sites and use it until I can buy my dream TS.
3. Save the $250 + the extra $100 for delivery and buy the Porter Cable.

Is the Grizzly worth the price, being one of their lower end models?

I appreciate any thoughts on this matter.

G0715P 10” Hybrid Table Saw with Riving Knife, Polar Bear Series®

-- Cheers and God Bless


17 replies so far

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

111999 posts in 2163 days


#1 posted 1047 days ago

#4 buy a used powermatic save the extra money to buy your dreams saw later.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

14553 posts in 2261 days


#2 posted 1047 days ago

I don’t know about the Griz, but I wouldn’t spend that much if I intended to get another later. I’d watch Craigslist and yard sales for a deal. There are a lot of them out there. I bought a couple generators that way until I was ready to drop $1K on a Honda just for the peace and quiet ;-))

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View derosa's profile

derosa

1532 posts in 1421 days


#3 posted 1047 days ago

If it is the PC table saw that sits at around 500.00 then I have the hitachi version of it. I bought the last one on clearance and the PC was in its place a week later. Couldn’t tell the difference and neither could the sales person. The top on mine is dead flat and square to the blade. It is possible to adjust the squareness but it wouldn’t be all that easy. I couldn’t be happier and won’t bother upgrading for several years to come as it powers through everything I’ve tossed at it.

-- --Rev. Russ in NY-- A posse ad esse

View ShaneA's profile

ShaneA

5208 posts in 1184 days


#4 posted 1046 days ago

I am with Jim, on the #4 option. Doesnt have to be powermatic but a solid used saw you could easily get your money back out of later when it comes time to get the dream saw. Based on some earlier posts you could have a significant wait for the grizzly. So if you want to go grizzly you may check availability first.

View BilltheDiver's profile

BilltheDiver

227 posts in 1471 days


#5 posted 1046 days ago

I would suggest you go to www.claz.org and set up an email alert for table saws in your area. It will daily search the free classifieds and alert you every time someone puts a saw up for sale. There are a lot of good saws on the market frequently.

-- "Measure twice, cut once, count fingers"

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5355 posts in 1961 days


#6 posted 1046 days ago

If you’re talking about the PCB270TS, it has a couple of drawbacks that I’m not particularly impressed with for $600. In addition to the steel wings, the fence is among the worst in this class IMHO…very easy to rock off 90°, but the biggest concern would be the longterm durability of the plastic gear in the blade height mechanism. It’s just not a saw I’d be drawn to is this price range, but that doesn’t mean it won’t make you happy. I think both the Ridgid R4512 and the Craftsman 22183 offer a bit more.

The Griz has got some nice features too, but only you can decide whether or not it’s worth the extra money. There are definitely drawbacks dealing with the mail order issues.

The Craftsman 22116 (made by Steel City/Orion) is another good candidate when the price drops below $800. The Jet Proshop is also a nice saw, but has not yet been updated with a riving knife. It’s always worth keeping your eyes peeled for a good used saw. Anything approaching a true 2hp will require 220v.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

10962 posts in 1691 days


#7 posted 1046 days ago

If I was looking in that price range, I’d look for a good older better made table saw. If you buy a new one they have more plastic in the wrong places and they make them cheaper.
There are a lot of older guys getting out of woodworking for health reasons. Keep an eye out for good solid used saw. One way to get an edge on buying that good saw before someone else does at a sale or through an ad is to put a Wanted Ad in a few places. That way you get first shot at the machine! Sometimes you get an upgraded fence thrown in with the deal,too.

I have a Ryobi 10” saw from the HD and I am happy with it. It has plenty of power for the stuff I do and the fence is accurate. The only thing is that it does not have miter slots- it has a sliding miter table off to the left.

Good luck on the hunt!!..............Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View Kristoffer's profile

Kristoffer

670 posts in 1802 days


#8 posted 1046 days ago

One of the problems is… I don’t want to buy another used TS until I know how to do the repairs and alignments myself. If I take it to a tool repair shop, they’re just going to try to get as much money out of me as they can.
I would buy a nice, used one from somebody that I knew and trusted, but I don’t know anybody that is selling one. I’m not going to give a stranger $600 – $800 for a saw that I don’t know if I can trust. Maybe the motor only has a few more months of life left, maybe it has some sort of other issue that is not apparent at first sight or use. I need something with a warranty or some sort of assurance that I’m not getting screwed.

-- Cheers and God Bless

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

12951 posts in 1279 days


#9 posted 1046 days ago

I’m with Jim. $500 for a used PM or Unisaw. I’ve got the same saw you killed and I love mine to death. I’ve had the opportunity to buy flawless vintage PMs, new PM2000s for a song, etc. but I just can’t let go of my old JET. If it needed a $175 repair, I’d probably have to let her go, though. Green PM is my vote.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View crank49's profile

crank49

3325 posts in 1557 days


#10 posted 1046 days ago

I would agree with Knotscott. I bought the Craftsman 22183 after studying the Hitachi at Lowes. Lowes replaced the Hitachi with the PC, but it’s the same saw. The Hitachi/PC fence is what turned me off. But then I looked inside and the plastic gear was the last straw.

My Craftsman is virtualy the same saw as the Ridgid R4512 now sold at HD; different paint of course. I Paid $410 for it about 15 months ago. It’s a good saw for the money, very good fence, strong motor, riving knife, adjustable arbor. Cons, useless manual, difficult arbor adjustment when you don’t know about the locking set screws the manual neglected to tell you about, internal fit and finish of the arbor mechanism is poor.

If I was considering a future cabinet saw purchase and also considering I need to take a saw to job sites, I would probably go for a top end jobsite saw in the short term. I like the Bosch or Ridgid, they are both around $500 to $600. Both have good fences, standard miter slots and can handle a dado stack. That’s the features you loose on cheaper saws.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View Loren's profile (online now)

Loren

7165 posts in 2233 days


#11 posted 1046 days ago

Most vintage saws you can tell from visual inspection whether they were used
in a production shop or not. Really, with the 10” saws, there’s a lot of them
on the 2nd-hand market that were only used by hobbiests or in 1-man shops –
so not punishing production work.

I dunno why people get so freaked out about buying used stuff and warranties
and all that. I’ve found machine break-downs in older equipment to be far,
far less of a problem than those who cry wolf (“new!”) would imply.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

111999 posts in 2163 days


#12 posted 1046 days ago

I would think you could get a used delta or powermatic in the $350-$ 500 range. I’ve had a good number of students buy used saws and it’s rare to find serious problems with them. One of my students bought a use cabinet saw from our local High School that had been in daily use in the High school since 1955 and had no problems with it the last 3 years since they bought it. There’s nothing wrong with buying new if that’s what you want. Although I have not bought a table saw from Grizzly I have bought 6 other pieces of equipment from them over the years and have been very happy with them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NICE-DELTA-10-UNISAW-TILTING-ARBOR-TABLE-SAW-36-951-/130568345918?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e667ad93e

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View IrreverentJack's profile

IrreverentJack

724 posts in 1429 days


#13 posted 1045 days ago

Here’s a Unisaw for $350 on CL. -Jack

View adaughhetee's profile

adaughhetee

100 posts in 1269 days


#14 posted 1045 days ago

When I can afford it I plan on buying the grizzly. After visiting there showroom and looking at there saws compared to craftsman/big box stores saws there is no question I will buy a grizzly. Even the $500 dollars saws at lowe’s you can skew and lock down the fence at 10-15 degrees out of alignment. The grizzly is smooth and has a good fence that you won’t have to square with every adjustment. I am not an expert by a long shot but I was truly impressed with the quality of grizzly. The powermatic saws are great but if you find one in the $500-800 price range what kind of shape will it be in and will you be constantly replacing parts and having to maintenance a 15-20 year old saw? I think the grizzly will more than suffice for the average woodworker.

View northeaster's profile

northeaster

52 posts in 1078 days


#15 posted 1045 days ago

Having bought a new G0715P in the last 6 months, I obviously made a choice but can see both sides of the argument. I still tend to come down on the side of a new, better than big box saw, though it all depends on your needs.

Upsides:

1) A good riving knife seems to me like a very useful safety feature, even though most of the 20 year old PM’s out there have not disfigured their previous owners.

2) The decent fence, the lack of plastic, and the tolerances for this machine seem quite good and reproducible, despite the blade parallelism problems a number of people have experienced. I think this pretty clearly puts it in a league above the usual BORG contractor saws and perhaps not at all far from traditional cabinet saws.

3) Power with a thin kerf blade is enough that cutting hardwoods of less than 1” is effortless, even at 110V.

4) Dust collection is miles ahead of contractor saws.

Downsides:

1) Mail order and teething problems can be an issue; be prepared to spend some time if you don’t get a perfect copy from the beginning. In my experience, that is mitigated somewhat by good customer support from Grizzly, but it’s still time you could be using in a more satisfying way.

2) It’s not as solid as a PM, but if you need to move it, you might as well have the full on cabinet saw: the weight difference is not as great as you’d think.

3) At 110V, it definitely slows on thicker hardwoods: 1.5” of teak can easily bring it to a standstill if you hurry the process too much.

Further disclaimer: a significant part of my choice was the fact that I have a somewhat limited access 150 year old basement and getting a full cabinet saw’s 600 lb at an odd angle through a 3 foot square door seemed chancy to me. For some reason, I think 400 lb is just easier to deal with, though the practical difference may not be huge.

Good luck!

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