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How to wire up Grizzly safety switch for router table (no ground?)

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Forum topic by SlaterNation posted 08-28-2011 08:03 PM 2930 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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SlaterNation

15 posts in 1358 days


08-28-2011 08:03 PM

Topic tags/keywords: router switch grizzly

I purchased this switch from Grizzly for use on my router table. I have installed my fair share of wall outlets and that has always been straightforward: hot to hot, neutral to neutral, ground to ground. This switch from grizzly however appears to have no ground, just two terminals on each side where one side is marked “load” and the other “line”. I’m guessing it should just involve wiring up the hot and neutral wires on their respective sides but the lack of ground has me puzzled. Anyone know what I’m missing here?

One other thing I’m not 100% sure on is if this switch can handle the load for my router. The specifications from grizzly are:

“110 volt, 2 HP motors up to 35 amps and 220 volt, 3 HP motors up to 20 amps.”

Yet the Porter Cable router I’m using in my table (7518) is rated:

“15 Amp 3-1/4 HP”

The reason I think it could be ok despite the 3 1/4 HP rating on the router is that I have read there is some wiggle room in how manufacturers calculate HP figures and that routers in particular are notorious for inflated HP ratings. I think this was also just about the highest rated switch I could find anywhere. Most would not even handle a 20a circuit. Is anyone able to reassure me that I’m not doing something really stupid here?

Thanks!


4 replies so far

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SlaterNation

15 posts in 1358 days


#1 posted 08-28-2011 09:26 PM

I forgot to link to the product on grizzly’s site:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/110-220V-Paddle-On-Off-Switch/H8243

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Grandpa

3193 posts in 1399 days


#2 posted 08-29-2011 12:08 AM

I believe the 3-1/4 HP is peak horse power. That is usually the start up HP or the most power it can develop just before it burns up. It will develop that HP for just a short time then the smoke begins. This switch should handle your router. The ground wire (green) grounds to the chassis you are dealing with. If it is a saw then you would need to ground the saw with it. You don’t need to run the green through a switch. In fact you don’t want to run the ground through the switch. Wire it around the switch. I would say your router can develop around 1 HP continous.

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ajosephg

1857 posts in 2285 days


#3 posted 08-29-2011 12:11 AM

I don’t think you’ll have any power issue with the switch.

Re: Lack of ground terminal. This is not a problem either. If your router cord has a ground conductor just pigtail it to the ground wire of the cord that your going to use to connect the switch to an outlet. I’m not close to any of my routers, but I think that many are double insulated which means they don’t even have a ground wire.

-- Joe

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SlaterNation

15 posts in 1358 days


#4 posted 08-29-2011 02:39 AM

Thanks for the replies! I thought that might be the way to do it and it is always good to get confirmation, especially when dealing with electricity. Thanks again.

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