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Forum topic by mzimmers posted 11-04-2018 04:01 PM 585 views 0 times favorited 24 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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mzimmers

212 posts in 4112 days


11-04-2018 04:01 PM

Topic tags/keywords: rot repair

Hi guys -

I realize this isn’t exactly what most of us think of when we think of woodworking, but I’ve always gotten good advice here, so I figured I’d ask.

I moved into a home about a year ago, and have been doing all the obligatory fix-ups. Next on the list is fixing some minor rot at the bottom of an exterior door jamb.

Does this look fixable with some of that wood epoxy, or am I faced with replacing the board?

Thanks…

-- M. Zimmers


24 replies so far

View lumbering_on's profile

lumbering_on

572 posts in 687 days


#1 posted 11-04-2018 04:05 PM

Use Bondo on it. It sounds strange, but I’ve used it to repair holes in wood that size or larger.

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mzimmers

212 posts in 4112 days


#2 posted 11-04-2018 04:08 PM

Well…OK. I’m willing to give that a try. I’m also interested in what prep work is recommended before I start patching something in. Obviously I want to get as much of the rotted wood out as possible, but I’m wondering whether I should treat it with Coppergreen or something similar before applying the Bondo.

-- M. Zimmers

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JCamp

873 posts in 748 days


#3 posted 11-04-2018 07:06 PM

Not meaning to step on any toes but I wouldn’t do bondo unless u want a fast/cheap fix that won’t last long. Your wood will still be rotted and continue to do so. Personnally I’d suggest cutting mayb 3-4 inches above the rot and removing the entire damaged section. Then replace with a new piece of board (preferably treated). You could then use bondo or putty to blend the seam between the old and new frame and paint. That should look as good as new and last for many years without being termite bait

-- Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with all thy might

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Ripper70

1163 posts in 1106 days


#4 posted 11-04-2018 07:18 PM

I have to agree with JCamp. Replace the rotted wood with new. One and done.

-- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo

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woodbutcherbynight

5676 posts in 2606 days


#5 posted 11-04-2018 07:34 PM

Quick fix is bondo, it will work but this is a band aid on a finger of a cut off arm. What JC suggested would be best long term fix.

-- Live to tell the stories, they sound better that way.

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lumbering_on

572 posts in 687 days


#6 posted 11-04-2018 08:56 PM

I won’t argue that replacing the wood would be the best fix. However, I fixed two window sills and some deck boards at my parent’s cottage 15 years ago with Bondo. All of it was still good up until two years ago when they sold it. If that’s temporary, then I guess I’m ok with that.

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northwoodsman

245 posts in 3943 days


#7 posted 11-04-2018 08:56 PM

I had the same issue a few years back. I cut the rotted jamb off at about 16” from the bottom. I replaced that section with a piece of PVC jamb. I had to machine it to size. Then I used something similar to Bondo as described above but it was made for wood. It adheres to wood like you wouldn’t believe. Anyways, I used that to cover the seam. After it hardened I sanded it smooth. You can tell it is spliced and the PVS will last forever, even if sitting in water. I purchased an oscillating saw for this project and have found dozens of uses for it since. The oscillating saw was the perfect way to cut out just what i needed to, including nails.

-- NorthWoodsMan

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mzimmers

212 posts in 4112 days


#8 posted 11-04-2018 09:03 PM

This is all good information, guys. So, I did a little more demolition:

I’ve never done much work with door carpentry, so I’m not sure what I’m looking at here. The jamb (if I’m using the term right) appears to be made of 4.5” wide, 1” thick basswood of some kind. But it has a rebate on on the inside. At first, I thought it would be two pieces of wood, but it looks like it’s just one (surprising).

So, do I correctly understand that to do this right, I have to remove the door, rip out a 84” long piece of wood (hoping I don’t damage the trim in the process), replace it, mortise for the hinges, then put it all back together?

Homeownship sucks sometimes…

-- M. Zimmers

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lumbering_on

572 posts in 687 days


#9 posted 11-04-2018 09:07 PM

There is some dark ‘shadow’ at the bottom of your photo, is that more damage?

As for ripping out the entire door jam, that shouldn’t be necessary unless there is some more damage the photo isn’t showing. You should just be able to remove the damaged wood, plus a few inches.

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mzimmers

212 posts in 4112 days


#10 posted 11-04-2018 09:51 PM

No, it isn’t. (Sorry about the terrible image quality; the sun was backlighting the hell out of the scene.) It’s some rubbery stuff that ended right there (I didn’t remove any). The jamb also seems to be set off from the stud by about 1/4”—not sure how that is done, as I didn’t see any spacers in the lower area.

Here’s a somewhat improved pic:

-- M. Zimmers

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lumbering_on

572 posts in 687 days


#11 posted 11-04-2018 10:04 PM



No, it isn t. (Sorry about the terrible image quality; the sun was backlighting the hell out of the scene.) It s some rubbery stuff that ended right there (I didn t remove any). The jamb also seems to be set off from the stud by about 1/4”—not sure how that is done, as I didn t see any spacers in the lower area.

Here s a somewhat improved pic:

- mzimmers

I’m not in construction, but it could have been a prehung door that they installed with a space for insulation. What I’d do right now is close the door and spray it with a hose for a few minutes, and then see if the inside is getting moisture inside it. You really need to know if moisture is getting in when it rains or this isn’t going to be the last time you’re fixing this.

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JCamp

873 posts in 748 days


#12 posted 11-04-2018 11:17 PM

Looks like u just need to remove that one little side piece that was connected to the bad stuff (looks to be mayb 14 inches long and a inch or two wide) and then replace it with a full board.
The door was a Prehung door so they just shimmed it to fit the opening. Nothing wrong with that at all. You’ll just cut a few shim pieces to put behind it for your new board to set out on. OR you might be able to take a treated 2×6 and trim and thin it down to fit
Something that you can do if you are worried about the stud behind the door getting wet over time is u can paint it with some oil base paint or something like that to seal it.

-- Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with all thy might

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mzimmers

212 posts in 4112 days


#13 posted 11-05-2018 01:33 AM

There isn’t a side piece, though—it’s all one piece (at least it sure seems like it is). But I can probably replace it with two pieces. The hard part will be making square cuts in the wood I’m removing.

-- M. Zimmers

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mzimmers

212 posts in 4112 days


#14 posted 11-06-2018 05:08 PM

One thing I forgot to ask: what kind of tool does one use to remove this stuff, so that there are nice clean right angles for the new wood to butt up against?

-- M. Zimmers

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JCamp

873 posts in 748 days


#15 posted 11-06-2018 05:23 PM

Oscillating tool is the best

-- Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with all thy might

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