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Tips & Tricks: Getting the Wood Smoo-oo-ooth

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Forum topic by MsDebbieP posted 08-26-2011 11:19 PM 2224 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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MsDebbieP

18615 posts in 2909 days


08-26-2011 11:19 PM

Topic tags/keywords: sanding planers scrapers planes smooth gateway tips tricks

What are your “tips and tricks” (and challenges) re: getting the wood smooth? (sanding, scraping, planing, ...)

 

Gateway to all Tips & Tricks Topics
 

-- ~ Debbie, Canada (https://www.facebook.com/DebbiePribeleENJOConsultant)


16 replies so far

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fussy

980 posts in 1799 days


#1 posted 08-27-2011 05:44 AM

I have scrapers, and they ARE useful, but I use them only in emergencies. I have a couple hand planes (my go-to is a cheap HF block plane) that I use only grudgingly. I confess to using sandpaper or sanding sponges for everything. I discovered Abranet and love it for its’ dust collection characteristics, and its’ longevity. On most woods I stop at 220 or maybe 320, and apply a oil finish with 400 thru 600 wet-or-dry then wax. On my favorite wood, yellowheart, I sand through 2000 then wax and buff. Ever see a yellow mirror?

Steve

-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

View rance's profile

rance

4147 posts in 1908 days


#2 posted 08-27-2011 06:51 AM

Power tools all the way. Scrapers are for younger folks who like to sweat. So are handplanes, for that matter.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View Grumpy's profile

Grumpy

19702 posts in 2599 days


#3 posted 08-29-2011 02:35 AM

For turning I use the usual grits down the line then 000 steel wool & finish off with a handfull of sawdust. The sawdust really does give a polished finish.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

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Roper

1363 posts in 2461 days


#4 posted 08-29-2011 02:38 AM

For turning, go to the grinder often and keep the tool sharp, then you can start sanding at 220.

-- Roper - Master of sawdust- www.roperwoodturning.com

View Bernie's profile

Bernie

414 posts in 1585 days


#5 posted 08-29-2011 04:29 AM

I’m not exactly a younger guy, but I love my cabinet scrapers. They save a lot of sanding and leave no gulleys. But I do finish sanding, only to 180. I’ve seen lots of talk about sanding and lots of folks agree with me that anything more the 180 is closing the wood grain.

Then again, about as many folks would disagree and sand all the way up to big numbers.

-- Bernie: It never gets hot or cold in New Hampshire, just seasonal!

View twiceisnice's profile

twiceisnice

95 posts in 1575 days


#6 posted 08-29-2011 07:48 AM

STEP1 SAND STEP 2 SAND STEP 3 SAND STEP4 SAND STEP 5 SAND

View Kindlingmaker's profile

Kindlingmaker

2654 posts in 2274 days


#7 posted 08-29-2011 04:13 PM

Wet and raise the grain before sanding then see “twiceisnice”

-- Never board, always knotty, lots of growth rings

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woodjewelry

49 posts in 1656 days


#8 posted 09-03-2011 10:06 PM

Plane, scrape, 120 grit, seal end grain and difficult grain with sanding sealer, and or grain filler, 240 grit, 400 grit, 600 grit, first finish coat, de nib with 600 grit, second finish coat, de nib with 1000 grit. third finish coat, denib 1000 grit. leave 2 weeks to dry, Burnish with burnishing cream to 10,000 grit.

Make sure you brush off any traces of grit from the previous sanding, one lump of grit from 120 paper turning up on your 1000 grit sanding will ruin your day.

It may sound like a lot of steps, but I have used this technique in my short run production shop for years, by going down through the grits you only need to sand for a short while at each grit. If your going to stain the wood very dark avoid orbital sanders, as they often leave swirl marks from trapped grit.

-- Mark, Lithuania, http://www.woodworkers-online.com

View MsDebbieP's profile

MsDebbieP

18615 posts in 2909 days


#9 posted 10-01-2011 04:34 PM

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pierce85

508 posts in 1310 days


#10 posted 10-01-2011 06:48 PM

cr1 recommended a “light saber.” I would advise against this…

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Craftsman on the lake

2419 posts in 2186 days


#11 posted 10-26-2011 05:47 AM

Broken glass scraps from glass stores. Used as scrapers.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

View tblrxdave's profile

tblrxdave

44 posts in 2042 days


#12 posted 10-26-2011 03:22 PM

I use broken glass also. I find that it works really well on knots and end grain. Sandpaper has a tendency to leave scratches in the wood. Infinite shapes for an edge. For a new edge score a line with a glass cutter and snap off the old edge.

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steviep

232 posts in 1395 days


#13 posted 10-26-2011 07:28 PM

never heard of the broken glass trick. Is there a type of glass that works better than others?

-- StevieP ~ Micheal Tompkins - you were not here on earth long but left a giant mark on us. RIP Brother

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tblrxdave

44 posts in 2042 days


#14 posted 11-02-2011 04:24 PM

I use 1/8” or 1/4” standard plate. Window glass, picture frames, mirrors. I don’t think that I’ve ever used tempered glass. Sanding wild grain patterns can be exasperating when trying to eliminate blotching. This is where I’ve found glass the easiest way to smooth out changes in grain patterns. Straight or curved, big or little pieces they all work until they get dull. I’ve had glass shatter in my hand while scrapping but haven’t cut myself yet. Ware gloves and experiment.

View paratrooper34's profile

paratrooper34

760 posts in 1700 days


#15 posted 11-04-2011 02:18 AM

Smooth plane. Ready to finish surface with a properly tuned smoother. Card scraper or cabinet scraper for gnarly wood.

-- Mike

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