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Forum topic by Andy123 posted 08-26-2011 10:15 PM 1311 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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226 posts in 2472 days

08-26-2011 10:15 PM

Topic tags/keywords: jig oak drill press

I am trying to drill a 45 Deg holes with my forsner bit on a drill press. I tried canting the table to 45 deg, but it was too hard to find center on the board. So I made a jig that is constant on my drill press table. However, I am having trouble trying to clamp down the piece of wood I am drilling. I am drilling hardwood so there is a lot of torque on the wood. How do I clamp dot a 45 deg piece of wood to a 90 deg jig?

-- The mistakes I make in woodworking are not mistakes they just give my projects character- Me

7 replies so far

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2848 days

#1 posted 08-26-2011 10:21 PM

The pilot on a forstner has to enter first.

You’ll need triangles to get your work clamped.

As for the actual boring, the only fix I can think of is to glue a 45 degree block of wood, with paper in the joint, to your work so that the entry of the bit is flat but when it comes to your work, it enters at the angle. When you’re done boring, bust the glue joint at the paper and clean off the work.



-- " his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View crank49's profile


4030 posts in 2969 days

#2 posted 08-26-2011 11:13 PM

How big is the bit (hole)?

Maybe a hole saw with an extended pilot bit? If its a big hole.

Maybe a short, brad point? If it is a small hole.

What Lee suggested would work nicely also. Or, same idea, triangular piece of wood on top of your hole location, but clamped instead of glued. Or held with a couple dots of hot melt and clamps. Heat the wood to remove.

View David Grimes's profile

David Grimes

2078 posts in 2637 days

#3 posted 08-27-2011 03:39 AM

If stabilized, you can start with spade bit or boring bit just to get to the angle dangle for the forstner to engage the hole. I have done this many times on the bottoms sides of stair top rail for the pilasters.

-- If you're going to stir the pot, think BIG spoon or SMALL boat paddle. David Grimes, Georgia

View ShopTinker's profile


884 posts in 2766 days

#4 posted 08-27-2011 03:43 AM

I’ve never tried it, but it seems to me that this would work…

Once you have your work clamped at 45 degrees drill a 1/4” or 3/8” hole and insert a dowel to center your Forsner bit on. Cut the dowel so the top is even with where the Forsner bit starts to bite on the higher edge.

I have used a hole saw on an angle like that, go with a very slow speed until the saw has cut a path to bury the teeth on the top edge.

-- Dan - Valparaiso, Indiana, "A smart man changes his mind, a fool never does."

View Bernie's profile


422 posts in 2835 days

#5 posted 08-27-2011 04:39 AM

Good advise… if I may add to it, Pencil in a cross hair mark on your work extended way beyond your desired hole. Then take a block of wood, draw cross hair all the way around it. Use a block long enough so you can star a center hole with the desired fostner bit, but don’t bore all the way through. Cut the unbored end off at a 45 angle,match the cross hair lines and glue the block onto your work, mount it onto the drill press table, and continue your bore. Try this on a scarp piece of wood to discover the glitches and work them out. Good luck.

-- Bernie: It never gets hot or cold in New Hampshire, just seasonal!

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 2688 days

#6 posted 08-28-2011 04:41 AM

I have never disagreed with Lee but I dont agree that the pilot point has to engage first. I drill a lot of angled holes with Forstner bits and the edge engages first. The trick is to have your piece firmly clamped so it cant move. I use wedges or triangles to stabilize the piece when clamping to fence or table on drillpress. No offense to Lee whatsoever!

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View MrRon's profile


4769 posts in 3241 days

#7 posted 08-29-2011 09:56 PM

Insert a steel rod, pointed on one end about 4” long into the drill chuck. Diameter or length of rod doesn’t matter as long as the rod can reach the spot on the work without the chuck touching it. With the table tilted at 45°, position it until the pointed rod meets the spot on the work. At that point clamp the work firmly. Without moving the work or the table, replace the rod with a forstener bit. If the bit is not long enough, you will need an extension.

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