another handplane question

They are called plane tracks. You should sharpen your blade with a slight camber. You can do this by putting more pressure on the outside of your honing jig to take the edges back on both sides of the blade. A #4 is smoothing plane and should be sharpened as defined in the video below. :)

http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=29711

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

been there, done that. Not much to add to what Wayne had to offer.

-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)

I would add that you do not need to use a grinder as shown in the video for a block plane or a smoothing plane. you can do it by taking more strokes and putting pressure on the outer sides of the blade.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

thanks wayne! i finally got the mirror like finish like everybody is talking about. it only too me an hour an a half :) i did make a slight camber. i used 220 wet sandpaper. However, i guess the camber was not deep enough b/c i am still getting plane tracks. I guess more sharpening:) boy i hope this sharpening becomes easier. it is taking me forever.

thanks, jeff

How far out of the mouth is the blade? You might be taking too deep of a shaving.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Jeff, it took me longer to get the hang of sharpening than any other single task in woodworking or tool restoration. Hang in there.

-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)

Iron too deep, not using overlapping strokes?

For early projects, how about letting the plane tracks be evidence of handwork? It’s a good way to get on with building stuff while creating something tangible to look back on as “wow, that’s my old limit smoothing a face.”

Final smoothing with a wider bench plane (#4, even a #6 if you’ve got one, vs. a block) is also a good call.

Have you relieved the hard corners of the iron with just a couple strokes of a file?

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive

wow! file sounds like a great idea. iany videos on how to do this

Here’s my source:

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/why-i-file-the-corners-of-my-irons

Copy and paste and you should get there. Looks like it includes a video, too.

If the full length link doesn’t work, go to the blog and he’s got a search function. I searched by iron file corners.

Good luck!

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive

thanks for the video and article smitty. Isthis how you put a camber on your irons?

Jeff82780: I would recommend NOT putting a camber on a block plane. Just my 2 cents…

You’re welcome.

Camber, no. Not with files.

I’ve done heavy camber on a jack plane’s iron by shaping with a grinding wheel before working it up on DMTs (abandoned sandpaper some time ago) to get final edge. For gentle camber thoguh, like what’s on a smoother or even a jointer, it’s done on while working through the grits. It’s not my original idea, it came from Handplane Essentials and works great for me. BTW, blocks should stay straight. Many also subscribe to a straight jointer blade… My #7 is straight, my #8 has a very, very slight camber.

Handplane Essentials is a very informative reference book re: hand planing, sharpening, use, etc. If you’re needing help taking planing to the next level, consider picking up a copy. I’m not one to suggest buying spreese for all kinds of material. But it sounds like you need a start. LJs is great, but we learned too by a combination of sources. Consider the Handplane Essentials book. Other readers of this post will recommend other good books. Ones they have found to be that tome that set them on the right path. Pick one and go for it.

You’ve hit a couple of roadblocks. I hit the same ones. Sharpened irons for what seemed like months before I actually raised a burr (THE indication you’re making a great edge). Knew how to get there and what to look for by reading, then finally going to a class that included sharpening. What I was doing myself set the foundation, but other inputs pushed me over the finish line.

Keep at it, you’ll get there. And once you do, it’s nothing but possiblities with these great tools.

Good luck!

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive