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What blade should I be using ?

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Forum topic by prap posted 08-23-2011 02:00 PM 1084 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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prap

41 posts in 2141 days


08-23-2011 02:00 PM

I have a 14” Grizzly go555x with a riser block. I have 3/4”- 4 tpi blade installed. I’m trying to cut some green birch logs into cookies and some length wise. the logs are 6-8” in diameter. I am using a sled in both cases but am experiencing real bad drift, so bad that I can’t complete the cut. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks in advance
Phil


16 replies so far

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

13003 posts in 2159 days


#1 posted 08-23-2011 02:03 PM

How aggressively are you feeding? Before I got a resaw bandsaw, I imagined sliding boards through at a rapid pace. Now, I realize that resawing properly takes a long time. Good luck!

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

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steviep

233 posts in 2113 days


#2 posted 08-23-2011 02:32 PM

What blade are you using? I used to buy blades from sears because they were so much cheap. I am using a timber wolf blade now (same width and TPI) and it is like using a whole new saw.

-- StevieP ~ Micheal Tompkins - you were not here on earth long but left a giant mark on us. RIP Brother

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Bertha

13003 posts in 2159 days


#3 posted 08-23-2011 02:38 PM

I’ve had the best luck with Lenox blades, for what that’s worth.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

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prap

41 posts in 2141 days


#4 posted 08-23-2011 05:07 PM

I’m feeding it as slow as possible. Timber wolf is what I use. Do you think there might be something else wrong? What is a sure sign that the blade is to dull?

View Cornductor's profile

Cornductor

208 posts in 2133 days


#5 posted 08-23-2011 05:53 PM

When I resaw I tighten the tension one step above the blade size. IE 1/4” blade tighten to 1/2” this seems to work for me.

-- An investment in knowledge pays the best interest. Benjamin Franklin

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crank49

3981 posts in 2437 days


#6 posted 08-23-2011 05:55 PM

”What is a sure sign that the blade is to dull?”
When it won’t cut?

Seriously, maybe your tension is not tight enough, or you have a couple of teeth that are damaged.

-- Michael: Hillary has a long list of accomplishments, though most DAs would refer to them as felonies.

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Alan S

178 posts in 2783 days


#7 posted 08-23-2011 08:16 PM

Timberwolf has some interesting requirements for blade tension. They have a “flutter” method of tensioning. See here.

Also, bandsaws always drift one way or another. You can’t just lock a jig to the miter slot and expect a straight cut. You have to measure the drift of the blade then run your piece through at that angle. I’m not sure where to link you to about this, but maybe check out the Wood Whisperer’s bandsaw tuneup video?

Basically, draw a straight line down the length of a board maybe 2 feet long. By hand, rip along that line on your bandsaw, but stop when you are halfway through the cut. Clamp down the board you just stopped cutting exactly in place. That is the angle your blade wants to cut. Now you can clamp down a fence or something parallel to that board and use that to guide your jig through.

Alan

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Alan S

178 posts in 2783 days


#8 posted 08-23-2011 09:29 PM

Skarp, I agree with you. If I could get my wheels perfectly coplanar, I think I could do what you are saying and not have any drift problems. I can’t just put up a straight edge between the wheels because of the way the frame and table sit. Without the wheels coplanar, adjusting the tracking knob to get the blade centered on the top wheel will most likely angle the blade improperly creating drift. Some day I will properly set this up, but until then, I don’t think I have a chance. Since that’s the case, I just deal with it the best I can.

Prap, if you can get your bandsaw setup properly like Skarp described, go for it! If it’s too much trouble, the method I described will get you something that works pretty well.

Alan

Skarp, I think you do bring up a good point about the tracking of the blade on the wheels will affect the drift of the blade and can be changed to correct it. I might try messing with this again the next time I’m ripping on the bandsaw.

View Don W's profile

Don W

17971 posts in 2033 days


#9 posted 08-23-2011 09:41 PM

I had to go to a 1/2” blade to resaw on my HF 14”. Nothing else would work. I use a 1/2” 3tpi hook. It works pretty well.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

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prap

41 posts in 2141 days


#10 posted 08-23-2011 10:46 PM

I’m going to order a new blade. I have no problem getting the blade to track properly so I’m thinking the coplanarity is fine. Now for cutting the green logs what should I order, should I stick with the same size I had? After closer inspection the blade I was using I noticed it was damaged. When the new one comes in I will use all the above suggestions.
Thanks you all for your input.
Phil

View Howie's profile

Howie

2656 posts in 2389 days


#11 posted 08-23-2011 11:25 PM

I have a go555x and use a 3/4- 3tpi on it without any problems. I’m leaning toward the “green” wood . Like someone else suggested try wedging the kerf.

-- Life is good.

View GregD's profile

GregD

783 posts in 2602 days


#12 posted 08-24-2011 12:06 AM

I spent some time watching and questioning Alex at the Carter’s bandsaw booth at the last Woodworking show (maybe you’ve seen the video of him cutting out a reindeer). One of his recommendations is to adjust the blade tracking so that the bottom of the gullet is centered on the tire. For me this worked much better than what I was doing before, which was centering the blade on the tire. Setting the blade guides carefully was also important. He does not worry at all about drift angle – the Carter’s magnetic bandsaw fence seems to be designed with the idea that quickly eyeballing the alignment of the fence to the blade is good enough. He also mentioned that if the feed rate is too fast the gullet will not be able to clear the saw dust from the kerf and the dust will flow to one side of the blade causing drift.

-- Greg D.

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Don W

17971 posts in 2033 days


#13 posted 08-24-2011 05:35 PM

I purchased a replacement tensioning for my HF. I made quit a few changes at once, new spring, new blocks and new blade, and I had just replaces both tires recently, so I can’t say the spring made a big difference, but i have to assume it helped. The old one was 20 years old and probably not the best to start with.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

3926 posts in 2709 days


#14 posted 08-24-2011 08:35 PM

Your problem is the width of the blade. 3/4” is too wide. The saw cannot put enough tension on a blade that wide. Go with a 1/2”, 3 tooth blade.

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rance

4245 posts in 2626 days


#15 posted 08-24-2011 09:19 PM

What Skarp said. There’s an article somewhere that meticulously describes this method of setting up your BS but I don’t have it at my fingertips. If I didn’t know any better, I’d say that Skarf wrote it. :) It goes against what the ‘well travelled road’ thinks is the right way. Properly setting up a blade sometimes takes some work but should end up with little or no drift. I’m of the opinion that adjusting the BS fence to account for drift is just that, ‘accounting for inaccurate blade setup’.

If all else fails, set your fence for drift, then use a sled that registers against the fence, not the miter slot. HTH.

Lastly, a title like “Bandsaw blade selection/setup (help please)” might get you more input.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

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