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Suitable finish for trivets

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Forum topic by EdsCustomWoodCrafts posted 10-19-2018 06:34 PM 291 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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EdsCustomWoodCrafts

859 posts in 1518 days


10-19-2018 06:34 PM

I have been doing a lot of research on finishes for trivets and I can’t determine wether to use a food safe finish like salad bowl finish or mineral oil .. or to use like a danish oil ..

I do need to protect them from heat somewhat I can I achieve that by using a food safe finish?

TIA

-- Thanks Ed “A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working. ~Author unknown”


5 replies so far

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Rich

3758 posts in 764 days


#1 posted 10-19-2018 06:57 PM

We need to put the myth about food safe finishes to rest:

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In fact, all finishes are safe to eat off of or be chewed on once the finish has fully cured. The rule of thumb for curing is 30 days, but warm conditions make curing happen faster. With all solvent-based finishes, you can determine that a finish has cured sufficiently by pressing your nose against the dry finish and sniffing. If there is any odor, the finish isn’t yet cured. Only if you can’t smell anything is the object safe for food or mouth contact.

Flexner, Bob. Understanding Wood Finishing: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish (American Woodworker) (p. 76). Fox Chapel Publishing. Kindle Edition.
—————————————————————————————————————————

The most important factor in your choice will be resistance to heat. Shellac and lacquer are not good choices. Some other film finishes might be OK depending on the level of heat but I’m not sure where you’d find data for it. Any non-film finish should be OK once it dries.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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EdsCustomWoodCrafts

859 posts in 1518 days


#2 posted 10-19-2018 07:27 PM



We need to put the myth about food safe finishes to rest:

—————————————————————————————————————————
In fact, all finishes are safe to eat off of or be chewed on once the finish has fully cured. The rule of thumb for curing is 30 days, but warm conditions make curing happen faster. With all solvent-based finishes, you can determine that a finish has cured sufficiently by pressing your nose against the dry finish and sniffing. If there is any odor, the finish isn’t yet cured. Only if you can’t smell anything is the object safe for food or mouth contact.

Flexner, Bob. Understanding Wood Finishing: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish (American Woodworker) (p. 76). Fox Chapel Publishing. Kindle Edition.
—————————————————————————————————————————

The most important factor in your choice will be resistance to heat. Shellac and lacquer are not good choices. Some other film finishes might be OK depending on the level of heat but I m not sure where you d find data for it. Any non-film finish should be OK once it dries.

- Rich

Danish oil would that be suitable .. my only problem is that I need to finish thevtrivets and ship them I probably have a week to get them out the door to fulfill orders….

Would you submerge them or just apply the finish with a brush or something

-- Thanks Ed “A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working. ~Author unknown”

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Rich

3758 posts in 764 days


#3 posted 10-19-2018 08:24 PM


Danish oil would that be suitable .. my only problem is that I need to finish thevtrivets and ship them I probably have a week to get them out the door to fulfill orders….

Would you submerge them or just apply the finish with a brush or something

- EdsCustomWoodCrafts

Danish oil is an oil/varnish blend, so technically it forms a film, albeit thin. Short of doing some testing with finished boards and hot pans, I don’t know how to advise you.

If it were me, I’d lean towards a product like Mahoney’s walnut oil. I use it a lot and it’s neutral, absorbs well and dries pretty fast relative to other oils I’ve used. I was just writing about this on another thread, but your local Sherwin Williams store sells Japan drier, which will speed the drying time significantly. You only treat what oil you’re going to use at a time, and 1 ml of drier to 1 to 2 oz of oil is all you need.

Be sure to test it on a sample board before you treat all of your product pieces.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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JayT

5926 posts in 2386 days


#4 posted 10-19-2018 08:29 PM

I used Watco Danish oil on some trivets given to family a couple years ago and there hasn’t been any issue with the heat. Cure time is a different issue.

-- In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock. Thomas Jefferson

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Woodbum

830 posts in 3240 days


#5 posted 10-20-2018 10:11 AM

Armor Seal from General Finishes

-- "Now I'm just another old guy wearing funny clothes"

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