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Forum topic by Andrewbarbarian posted 10-18-2018 05:28 PM 304 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Andrewbarbarian

9 posts in 32 days


10-18-2018 05:28 PM

I am fairly new to wood working and trying to figure out if I can use a tool I already have..

I am creating a napkin holder for the kitchen table (just a simple two sides and a bottom design).

I am using some old pine from the 50’s. I used my band saw to resaw a approx 1” thick piece into two halves which came out to roughly 1/2” each thick. Each piece 4 1/4” x 5 1/2”. I got quite a bit of drift or I didn’t do it right and the each half has different thickness that needs to be addressed. If it was close and you had to look twice I wouldn’t worry about it.

My joiner has a max capacity of 4”. The 5 1/2” dimension is with the grain. So even if I trimmed 1/4” off the 4 1/4” dimension I would be running it against the grain in the jointer which I would rather not do.

I do not own a planer but it is on the list.

I tried using a 12” disc sander to eyeball into two equal pieces. (not working out). I tried the belt sander (not working out.).

I will list my tools and would appreciate any ideas. Fyi the original piece of wood I started with did not allow for the dimensions in the opposite directions. If that was so I would have just trimmed it so the 4” could have went through the jointer.

12” miter saw
10” table saw
Shopsmith with band saw, belt sander, disc sander and jointer.
hand belt sander.
randomorbital sander sander
router table

(I know some of these are not applicable.)

I do not own any hand planers.


7 replies so far

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Andrewbarbarian

9 posts in 32 days


#1 posted 10-18-2018 05:41 PM

I was thinking about just running each piece back through the bandsaw to shave the thicker parts with a sacrificial piece on the trim side so I can hold it tight against the fence.

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Rich

3758 posts in 765 days


#2 posted 10-19-2018 04:11 AM

Don’t joint across the grain. Even if you had a thickness planer, that’s too small to run through one. Since it’s pine, you should be able to get a decent result just by sanding. It’ll take some patience and care to maintain a flat surface, but pine is pretty soft. Just take your time and you’ll get there.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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Rick Dennington

6245 posts in 3370 days


#3 posted 10-19-2018 04:43 AM

Speaking of napkin holders….Here’s a couple I made several years ago…..!! I also made some trivets and pan holders to match…..Just a sample…...!!

-- " It's a rat race out there, and the rats are winning....!!"

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lumbering_on

564 posts in 665 days


#4 posted 10-19-2018 12:36 PM

As Rich said, sanding is your best option, but I’d have to ask you if the effort is worth it for something so small? Sounds like it’s a small enough project that you can chalk it up as part of your learning curve and retry your project with another piece of wood.

BTW are you using a fence to help you with your resawing?

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Andrewbarbarian

9 posts in 32 days


#5 posted 10-19-2018 01:54 PM

Thanks for the replies. I will try some more hand sanding as rich mentioned. It can’t get any worse. Lumbering-on I did use a fence and a feather board. I have had decent luck in the past with re-sawing (I don’t do a lot or anything big). Not sure why this one drifted so much.

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Bill White

5106 posts in 4136 days


#6 posted 10-19-2018 02:05 PM

How sharp is the BS blade? Tooth count?

-- bill@magraphics.us

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Andrewbarbarian

9 posts in 32 days


#7 posted 10-19-2018 02:47 PM

Its only got a few cuts on it. 14tpi 3/8 blade. I know this isn’t a great resaw blade, but its all they had when my other one dulled. I never remember to get another until Im doing something and need it and then it hits me..”Oh ya I forgot to get a variety of blades for my bandsaw”!!

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