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Help! Sanding sealer over Watco Danish Oil

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Forum topic by tsbot posted 10-18-2018 04:48 AM 1127 views 0 times favorited 37 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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tsbot

52 posts in 745 days


10-18-2018 04:48 AM

I splotched my strip of maple, also the sanding sealer (varathane brand) isn’t really drying – my 220 and 320 grip paper seems like it’s gumming up a little. I set the piece in the sun today for 30 mins 65 degrees but I didn’t want to do that for too long. Didn’t seem to work. The sanding sealer is one light coat foamed brushed on over 2 light coats of Watco Danish Oil that dried over 12 hours.
It was mid 50’s in my garage so was the wood too cold? Sanding sealer can says no lower than 50 or 55 – can’t remember.

Should I let it dry more? Should I take it down to bare wood and start over? Will the splotch come out or is that from the Danish Oil?

Sorry for so many questions and thanks for the answers.


37 replies so far

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

8475 posts in 2748 days


#1 posted 10-18-2018 05:04 AM

Doesn’t Watco need 3 days of drying per instructions?

http://charlesneilwoodworking.3dcartstores.com/Pre-Color-Conditioner--Pre-Mixed--1-Quart--Ready-to-Use_p_47.html?redirect=1

Charles Neil’s pre conditioner works great!

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OSU55

1920 posts in 2160 days


#2 posted 10-18-2018 01:34 PM

Read about blotch control here.. The watco caused the blotching, and it will not go away. Surface will have to be stripped. Why are you using sanding sealer? The watco seals the surface, no need for it. What is your finish schedule (steps)?

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bondogaposis

5043 posts in 2522 days


#3 posted 10-18-2018 01:44 PM

Watco danish oil is very slow to dry, 12 hours is not long enough. I don’t understand why you would put sealer over it.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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Fred Hargis

5130 posts in 2664 days


#4 posted 10-18-2018 01:51 PM

You really did your applications backward. The sanding sealer (which is nothing more than a very thin film finish) should have went on first. As OSU55 said, now you have blotch and there’s not a practical way to remove it. I suspect everything will cure, but it may take a while.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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tsbot

52 posts in 745 days


#5 posted 10-18-2018 02:33 PM

So I can’t sand out the whole top back to bare wood to remove the blotches (haven’t read that link about blotch control yet). I used sanding sealer because I read it here: https://www.woodworkerssource.com/blog/woodworking-101/tips-tricks/3-ways-to-finish-sapele-that-makes-ribbon-stripe-figure-pop/

I never used it before and wasn’t going to either – wish I hadn’t.

Original Finishing was:
Sand top to 320 – rest to 220.
2 coats danish oil
2 coats sanding sealer
3-4 coats spray on lacquer
With sanding in between.

New finishing – if I take down to bare wood which I prob will:
Sand top 220
2 coats danish oil
Spray on lacquer or rub on poly.

Thoughts?

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waho6o9

8475 posts in 2748 days


#6 posted 10-18-2018 02:42 PM

Practice on scraps first.

Best of luck.

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tsbot

52 posts in 745 days


#7 posted 10-18-2018 02:59 PM

Can I just sand to bare wood or do I physically need to use a liquid stripper?

Read about blotch control here.. The watco caused the blotching, and it will not go away. Surface will have to be stripped. Why are you using sanding sealer? The watco seals the surface, no need for it. What is your finish schedule (steps)?

- OSU55


View Fred Hargis's profile (online now)

Fred Hargis

5130 posts in 2664 days


#8 posted 10-18-2018 03:45 PM

You won’t be able to sand it back until it cures. The stripper will get it off more quickly.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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tsbot

52 posts in 745 days


#9 posted 10-18-2018 03:55 PM

I won’t be able to get to it until this weekend. If it is cured will it sand out? Dont really feel like stripping.


You won t be able to sand it back until it cures. The stripper will get it off more quickly.

- Fred Hargis


View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

6233 posts in 3365 days


#10 posted 10-18-2018 04:14 PM

Sorry to tell ya, but you screwed the pooch when you put the sanding sealer on……!!

-- " It's a rat race out there, and the rats are winning....!!"

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tsbot

52 posts in 745 days


#11 posted 10-18-2018 04:25 PM

Ya. I knew that. Should have listened to that little voice and not do it.

Sorry to tell ya, but you screwed the pooch when you put the sanding sealer on……!!

- Rick Dennington


View Fred Hargis's profile (online now)

Fred Hargis

5130 posts in 2664 days


#12 posted 10-18-2018 04:50 PM


I won’t be able to get to it until this weekend. If it is cured will it sand out? Dont really feel like stripping.

You won t be able to sand it back until it cures. The stripper will get it off more quickly.

- Fred Hargis

- tsbot

If it is cured, it will sand out. It take a long time to cure enough to sand, and may not be ready this weekend. I say this with love in my heart: but you’re going to make a bigger mess with your attempts to”fix” this.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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tsbot

52 posts in 745 days


#13 posted 10-18-2018 04:53 PM

What is the solution then? Since my attempts at sanding as originally planned failed – there seems to be some scratching at the surface. I’m not going to scrap the piece. Sand those scratches out and lacquer or poly it and be done?

I won’t be able to get to it until this weekend. If it is cured will it sand out? Dont really feel like stripping.

You won t be able to sand it back until it cures. The stripper will get it off more quickly.

- Fred Hargis

- tsbot

If it is cured, it will sand out. It take a long time to cure enough to sand, and may not be ready this weekend. I say this with love in my heart: but you re going to make a bigger mess with your attempts to”fix” this.

- Fred Hargis


View EarlS's profile

EarlS

1750 posts in 2519 days


#14 posted 10-18-2018 05:28 PM

Here is what I did when I had to refinish a table top because of finish problems.

Try setting it out in the sun and wipe it down with a clean rag after a couple hours. It will be sticky, but keep rubbing and switching the cloth until is rubs smoothly. That will help get excess sealer and Watco off the wood.

You CAN sand everything off, even if it isn’t dry/cured. You will just go through more sandpaper than you might otherwise. I’d start with some 220 grit so you don’t take off too much too fast. Check the paper often and when it gets loaded up with finish toss it and put new paper on. Stay away from stripper as it will just make a bigger mess.

You can put sealer on, let it dry, then watco, let it dry for 72 hours or more, then use poly (arm-r-coat). Lightly sand between coats with 320 grit paper and wipe off any nubs.

-- Earl "I'm a pessamist - generally that increases the chance that things will turn out better than expected"

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Fred Hargis

5130 posts in 2664 days


#15 posted 10-18-2018 05:48 PM

What is the solution then? Since my attempts at sanding as originally planned failed – there seems to be some scratching at the surface.

- tsbot

Exactly which problem do you want the solution to? If you have scratches, wait for it to cure and wet sand it, then one more top coat.

If you want it to cure, wait…but it may take a while.

If you want the blotches gone, I can’t help.

If you want to start over (with the finish) then the stripper should get you back to ground zero.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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