How bad is this going to hurt?

I am a little worried it is too short, and that the risk vs reward may be a little skewed. If that were to get loose in the planer, it may be all she wrote for the planer or anything behind it. I am seeing projectiles being a possibility. Do you have a bandsaw and maybe a handplane?

I have a bandsaw that will resaw 12”
My handplaning is marginal, at best.
I’m real good with sandpaper, lots of practice.

-- It must be jelly baby, cause jam don't shake like that...

Ok, don’t laugh at me but, why wouldn’t you be able to accomplish this on a jointer? Now you can laugh :0

If the blank could be screwed in tight, I’d give it a shot, with small bites of course. Otherwise, no.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

HA HA! My jointer is 6”. I don’t understand how it could be done on a jointer, but I’m the guy that can’t figure out how to cut it.

-- It must be jelly baby, cause jam don't shake like that...

my vote would be the bandsaw

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

I cranked the planer up to max height, lowered it down til it just touched the feed roller. I was going to take very small bites.

-- It must be jelly baby, cause jam don't shake like that...

Bandsaw…........

I’m thinking use both. Cut it a little big on the bandsaw, clean it up in the plainer.

-- It must be jelly baby, cause jam don't shake like that...

That is interesting. I never considered a router. Thanks!

-- It must be jelly baby, cause jam don't shake like that...

If you don’t have a bandsaw, a sharp handsaw would get you real close and use jointer to finish.

Planer will probably kick it out.

-- David in Damascus, MD

I’ve done something a little similar recently. I did it on the router table – with small nibbles it wasn’t scary at all. This blog shows what I did, but I bet you can do it better!

-- "Do not speak – unless it improves on silence."

Make a router jig and use a plunge router!

If you wanted to use the planer, it would seem safer to run it in sideways, so as the piece goes through, the height of the workpiece is not changing. It’s just that at the beginning, you’re only planing a narrow portion of the wood. With each pass, the amount planed would get wider.

Granted, you may get some tearout since the grain is running across the planer, but for a final pass, maybe you could run it with the grain?

Alan

Immediate problem on picture 2: the left uppermost corner of the work piece overhangs outside of the sled. Not good. Make the block that sets the angle to support the edge of the work piece.
Because there is so much material to remove my order of preference would be: bandsaw, handsaw, table saw (with sled, cut from two sides), planner, router (with sled), hand plane.
You could also do a series of non-through cuts of variable depth on a table saw, knock out the waste with a chisel and plane smooth.