All clear retail (IE sold in retail store) epoxies are basically same stuff.
Best example - Bob Smith Industries provides private labeling programs for any hobby shop or distributor that buys in bulk. That is why Hobby Lobby/Rockler/Woodcraft epoxy or cyanoacrylate adhesives all come in same bottle(s) and look almost same - they are same!
The key difference between the hardware store 5/10/15/60 minute cure varieties sold in less than 1 quart bottles is the type of curative used. They all use similar blends of same resins (bisphenol A diglycidyl ether & bisphenol F diglycidyl ether, with maybe some low viscosity reactive diluent oligomers).
The FAST cure (less than 15 min) types use an aromatic amine curative that reacts quickly and is least temperature sensitive of typically retail epoxy curatives. These are most forgiving of stupid human tricks, like mix ratio errors, or cooler temps.
The SLOW cure (30 minute plus) types use an polyimide curative that reacts much slower, and cure speed is much more dependent on ambient temp. Some will NOT cure at all below 60F, or will take weeks to cure, and months to reach full strength. These are less forgiving of stupid human tricks; such as mix ratio errors, and dirty bond surfaces, etc.
Generally speaking, The shorter the cure time; the lower bond strength, and lower bond strength is at elevated temperatures. So despite challenges with longer cure time epoxies, one should always use the longest cure time your process allows for best adhesive performance. Also must know that while fast/slow epoxy may begin cross linking and 'set' in 5 or 30 minutes, that full bond strength is not reached for days, some even require weeks (length of time is temperature dependent).
The small bottle retail epoxies described above are different than epoxy systems typically sold by West Systems, System 3, etc; in quarts and gallons. These epoxies were developed for (fiberglass, Kevlar, carbon fiber) composite lamination of water and air craft parts. These laminating resins have significantly lower viscosity to help with fabric wet out. They use slightly different resin and curative blends to provide this lower viscosity. These lower viscosity resins typically have lower bond strength (PSI), but when used over large area strength is not as important as flexibility or consistent performance across a wide range of temperatures.
The strength of laminating resin .vs a structural resin is mute point for most wood working applications. We really only need to be concerned with shear strength and peel strength. Practically every retail branded structural or laminating epoxy is stronger than wood in these stress modes.
So you can choose an epoxy to use for wood working based on how much time you need for assembly, clamp retention time, ambient temperature during assembly & cure, and even price.
Hope this helps explain hobby epoxy for you.
PS -
There are also retail structural epoxies intended for metal bonding, these are typically grey or black in color. This 'metal' epoxies use powdered metal as fillers, and weak acids that react with epoxy system to etch the metal for stronger bond. JB Weld is common brand, and it uses flake aluminum powder to help dissipate heat in epoxy and improve high temperature performance. Devcon/Loctite sell a black epoxy that uses powdered steel as filler for bonding metal castings. These can be used for bonding wood, but would not be best choice.
NOTE:
The above is extreme simplification of differences between varies retail epoxy types. There many more subtle differences left out, and many more epoxy systems available from commercial/online sources that some might consider retail materials. If you need more information on epoxy adhesives, PM me offline, and I can suggest a couple of polymer reference books for your library.
Best Luck!