Bosch 4100 series blade alignment

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Forum topic by fuigb posted 08-18-2011 05:58 PM 8244 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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527 posts in 3163 days

08-18-2011 05:58 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bosch table saw blade alignment question

Hi all. I need advice in order to accurately align the blade on my Bosch 4100. By using a good (Woodcraft/Pinnacle) quality dial gauge I found that the blade on my saw was off by about 10/1000. To remedy this I essentially followed the advice given by others: loosen bolts at front & back of saw and then calibrate from a common point on the blade. Well, I’ve been able to reduce the error to about 5/1000 but I’m aiming for 0/1000. Any tricks or tips are appreciated.

-- - Crud. Go tell your mother that I need a Band-aid.

9 replies so far

View DannyB's profile


46 posts in 3627 days

#1 posted 08-19-2011 04:14 AM

Tap lightly ;)

Note that 0/1000 is theoretically possible at some single height, but you should realize then that moving the blade up/down often moves the blade laterally.
Even on cabinet saws, most will only guarantee 5-6/1000 of lateral movement over the full elevation (if they’ll guarantee anything). For example,
Look for “blade lateral movement over full elevation range”.

Basically, i would choose the blade height you will be working at most, and align at that point (or the midpoint of the height range you will be working at).

View fussy's profile


980 posts in 3256 days

#2 posted 08-19-2011 05:27 AM

You’re close enough. This is wood, not rocket surgery. Otherwise, listen to Danny


-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

View fuigb's profile


527 posts in 3163 days

#3 posted 08-24-2011 11:32 PM

Hi again – turns out that this was a three-handed job, or six, actually. I had two assistants tightening the set screws while I got the blade/motor assembly just about where I wanted it, or less than one-1000th off perfect.

The best part about this the initial response from the Bosch help line. I dotted a note off asking for advice and noted that the instruction manual was of limited help. Their response? “there are no other tricks or instructions.” And with that they unsold the miter saw that I had been eyeing as an eventual replacement for my trusty Makita.

-- - Crud. Go tell your mother that I need a Band-aid.

View pickle8pickles's profile


2 posts in 1727 days

#4 posted 03-27-2014 05:14 AM

Hello – I have the same issue with a new 4100. I’ve checked the blade alignment with a dial gauge and I’m also 10/1000 out of alignment. I was wondering if you can point me to the blog detailing the screws to loosen and adjust. The manual as you’ve indicated doesn’t show who to actually adjust the blade alignment.

Also, I have found that the fence is unpredictable. Sometimes it’s dead on, and others times, it is out of alignment. The 4100 is fine for my garage shop and my skill level, but it is annoying to have my saw pinching (not to mention unsafe).


View NiteWalker's profile


2738 posts in 2782 days

#5 posted 03-27-2014 10:12 AM

I just gave my 4100 to my pop.
The screws to loosen are under the front and back of the table, about 6-8” apart.
Loosen adjust, carefully tighten one bolt at a time.

The fence issue is why I gave the 4100 to my pop.

Saw size/type is not proportionate to skill level or shop size/type, but what you plan on building with it.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View BinghamtonEd's profile


2298 posts in 2575 days

#6 posted 03-27-2014 12:43 PM

Hm, I’ve never noticed the fence issue with my 4100. Did you adjust the tension on it? I checked my saw out of the box and it was around .008. At that time I determined I was more likely to F it up than fix it if I tried, so I didn’t bother. I’ve not had any issues with the saw other than it’s small surface area, especially in front of the blade. If the edge I ripped is going to be a shown edge on the project, I give it a couple swipes with a #4. Someday I’ll upgrade (when we move) and I’ll jump right to a cabinet saw. Someday.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View pickle8pickles's profile


2 posts in 1727 days

#7 posted 03-27-2014 04:12 PM

I’ve adjusted the tension on the fence as well as tight the screws that attach the fence to the lock while it is up against the blade. It just wont stay 90 at the top. Maybe mine is messed up, but it doesn’t act like i’d expect (move it to where you want it, lock it down, cut perfect straight lines). It cannot be trusted.

My blade (no matter what blade i put on it) is 10/1000 out from the leading edge to the rear. This coupled with the fence issues makes my rip cuts pinch, and any smaller piece of wood I push through it gets an extra kiss from the blade on the way past it. Very annoying for a guy who bought a table saw because he can’t cut straight lines all by himself.

View WoodFreak's profile


1 post in 261 days

#8 posted 03-31-2018 11:01 PM

I’m a newbie here and recently I’ve been having issues with my rip fence.The manufacturer’s instructions for rip fence alignment seem simple enough; reality is another matter. I did manage to get my blade/miter slot alignment to zero deflection but without a decent rip fence alignment previous efforts are are now in stalemate. Anyone have any specific tricks they used to accomplish an acceptable dial indicator reading?

View Andybb's profile


1524 posts in 809 days

#9 posted 03-31-2018 11:20 PM

IMHO if you’re at 5/1000 you are good to go unless every cut you make is going to be on the same thickness of wood. I had one of those saws for years and never had an issue with accuracy once I dialed it in. At 5/1000 your cuts will register as square using any measuring device this side of NASA. Just make sure the fence is square to the blade using the same non-NASA devices.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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