Question about plane restoration

0.002-.004 would be just fine in my shop, as would the irregular mouth. I’m interested to see the comments below. They will determine whether I’m 1) practical or 2) a slob. ;)

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

I’m all for being practical…as much fun as it is to sand a plane sole for hours…

-- Rob, Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario

When it’s all uniformly shiny, it’s done. That’s my theory, anyway.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

I would agree the sole is flat enough. Your flat to the thickness of a typical shaving… Which side of the photo of the mouth is the front edge? Top or bottom?

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Hi Wayne; the front edge is bottom in the pic.

-- Rob, Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario

Then I would say the mouth is fine…

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

I’ve never measured mine. What a novel idea. :-)

I hit it with the sand paper until it touches all the relevant parts, which is what Charlie said I believe.Scratches shouldn’t effect it rememberer some are completely corrugated.

My true test….how does it work?

-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)

Also, are you flattening the sole with the frog and blade in?

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

yep, the frog/blade are in as I lap the sole.

-- Rob, Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario

: ^ )

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

Place the plane on a flat surface, glass, does it spin, can you get a thin feeler gauge of piece of paper between the 2 surfaces? Do they prduce good shavings? It is not about being shiny, but areas of the plane need to be flat relative to each other.

Manitario. Sharpen the blade and make some shavings BEFORE you start lapping. Then make the sole shiny, flat or whatever YOU feel looks good. Make shavings again and compare the difference !
I think too many people are hyped up about the soles being flat, no grooves, etc. Here are 2 examples of planes that DO work. First is a compass plane, second a corrugated bottom plane.
In my own collection I remove the rust, clean the dirt off, if the jappaning is in poor shape I will repaint the bottom. My transitional I clean and sand the planes, put a new finish on the TOP and SIDES only, I wax the bottoms so they glide across the material smoothly. Repair any cracked or broken totes and knobs, shine up the brass parts and screws. HAVE FUN and Enjoy your restoration. (It’s satisfying and ADDICTIVE). I now look for the really roughest,poorest plane and see if I can bring it back to life. I never keep track of the time I spend doing it ! (I would never recover that time in money anyway) I retore them because “I CAN” and I enjoy it !

-- "My mission in life - make everyone smile !"

” It is not about being shiny, but areas of the plane need to be flat relative to each other.”

No, it’s not about being shiny. But if you take a plane with a patina on the sole and start lapping it on a flat surface, looking at the sole intermittently, once everything is shiny, it is flat enough.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

^agree with Charlie. Unless your plane’s been aggressively lapped on some kind of weird plane that’s not perpendicular to the sides; and everything’s touching down, you’re good to go (IMO).

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

A couple of mine. Stanley (U.K.) Nos.4 and 4 1/2, Both with Bubinga woodware. Smoothcut Japanese laminated Blue steel blades with Quangsheng chipbreakers. I bought the No.4 1/2 in 1968. A few handles/totes and knobs under construction.