Snipe & new Dewalt 734 planer

Yes, that is snipe. I don’t have a dewalt so I can’t say if this is common or something wrong with the machine.

Soft or hard wood should not make a difference.

I had an old (20 years ago) Delta planer that sniped no matter what I did, but my newer Delta 22-580
produces no snipe at all no matter what I do.

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

One suggestion I would make is to get a long straight edge and make sure that the infeed and outfeed tables are coplanar. If they aren’t this will produce snipe. Like Gary I have a 22-580 and don’t have a snipe problem unless I put pressure on the outfeed side as it is exiting the planer.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

Well ya know, Gary suggested the 22-580, but did I listen? Noooooooooooooo…

In my defense I should say I had a Delta 6” “professional” jointer a few years back which I subsequently sold prior to moving. It had not one but TWO warped fences. Kinda put me off the brand.

I have a Lee Valley 50” aluminum straight edge which I used to be sure the tables were set relative to the inside of the planer as is spec’d in the manual. Out of the box the outboard edges were way higher, changing it made no appreciable difference. It is possible they are still not co-planar, in that one side of a given table may be slightly higher/lower than another. I’ll go futz with it some more. The tables deflect pretty easily, being stamped. Not sure a couple thousands here or there on the 2 of them will make much difference.

Fortunately, I bought the planer at Lowes, where if nothing else you can return things easily.

Anyone know who has the best price on a 22-580???

Thanks for the replies.

Dan

Dan, the snipe is caused by the board lifting after it leaves the infeed roller. Try cutting an extra piece of the wood you’re planing, about 10-12” long, and butt it up to the board, so that it follows the work piece through. It will help prevent the board from lifting and cut down on the snipe.

-- Tim-- http://www.tmuli.com

Dan – You might want to check out FWW Tools & Shop Annual Issue (#195). They reviewed Benchtop Planers. The tester got very good results with the DW734. The author talks a little about snipe and some methods to improve it. You might want to check out the article.

Here is another link to a video on FWW’s website titled, “Get the Most from your Planer”. I hope it helps.

-- - Jim, Carroll, OH

I also have the 22-580 – but, I do get some snipe, primarily on longer pieces and when taking larger bites (1/16”). I don’t get much snipe, if any at all, when taking light passes (1/32” and less) and when the boards are relatively short. I’ve been very happy with the planer…maybe mine isn’t set-up as precisely as the others’...

I just saw it over at Rockler on Stone Way for $429 – not sure if that is a good price, but I thought that the price skyrocketed in the last year or two, so I’m guessing it’s decent for that model.

EDIT – just checked Amazon: $419

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

Your setup may be off because my 734 is snipe free 98% of the time. A long heavy board that is not supported properly will snipe a bit but that’s to be expected.

-- Paul

So far, I haven’t run anything much longer than 20”, so I don’t think it’s that factor. Taking smaller bites does help. I haven’t gotten a jointer yet, though one’s on the way. The test boards seem reasonably true, but again, have not been face jointed.

Running the boards through at an angle helps. Oddly, so does running them through on the left or right side of the table (as opposed to in the center).

Dorje – I’ve been to that Rockler. Bit of a pain to park there (like all of Seattle… ) I saw the Delta on Amazon for $419, unfortunately, we have to pay tax! Really got a great deal on the Dewalt, $313 + tax at Lowes. so the Delta, which appears to be pretty identical in design type & capability, would be over $100 more.

Paul – did you do anything special in setting up your 734? So far I’ve set the tables so the outboard edges are
level with the bed of the planer, seems to be the only adjustment in the manual. Do you have to do anything else to yours?

This really seems like a nicely made machine & Dewalt i a respected company. Seems like with all this stuff though, no matter what you buy, some are swearing by it while others are swearing at it. Really makes for a frustrating selection process.

Dan

Dan – I got my Delta when they were in the $300s…at over $400+tax, it does seem way too steep…

Does the DeWalt have quick set knives of some sort or do you have to set them when you change them? Also, is there any kind of feed roller adjustement?

-- Dorje (pronounced "door-jay"), Seattle, WA

Dorje – From what I see in the manual, there appear to be index pins in the cutter head which align the blades, which I assume qualifies as “quick set”. There doesn’t seem to be any adjustment of the blades or head possible, nor of the rollers.

I think my technique is improving. By running shorter lengths (up to 3’) at a bit of an angle, and by lifting longer lengths a bit, I think I’ve eliminated the snipe for all intense & purposes. I guess as with most things, practice makes perfect ;-)

Thanks everyone for the advice.

Dan

Hello all,
I have a Dewalt DW734 and have just started getting snipe. as the board is going through the planer, it seems to slip a bit. I can feel it not being carried along by the feed roller. I hear a Nya-nya-nya sound (how do you like that spelling?!) and, more pronounced than snipe, there are pronounced ridges on the back 3 or 4” of the board. There was even some burning on a piece of butternut inside one of the ridges.

I bought this machine used (if not abused) and have thought that I probably need to either sharpen or replace the blades. But I’m also wondering if there isn’t some way to clean or tighten up the feed roller. Any thoughts are appreciated.
Thanks!
Mitch

-- Mitch, http://furnitude.blogspot.com

I think you can minimize snipe but I think it’s real hard to get rid of it all together.I set up temporary in feed and out feed tables in addition to the ones on my planer.I put a straight edge on all surfaces to insure every thing is flat.I find snipe appears mainly on the out feed side.If you getting 1or 2 inches of snip that’s about par for the course.If your ending with 4or 5 inches then the planer need some adjustment.

Is there a table height lock? If so use it.
I’ve read that snipe in lunch box planers is often the result of the cutter block and the table changing position in relation to each other.

One trick lots of folks use is to lift up on the end of the board slightly as it enters and exits the planer. Just a little upward pressure to force the unsupported end of the board inside the planer against the table

-- When the moderator chooses sides, his site sucks.

I agree with cr1. also on exit make sure you suport the stock as it exits the planer.

I have a 734 and here is how I get snipe free cuts
1) you MUST remember to use the head lock, if I forget I get snipe 100% of the time….
2) set my out feed table just SLIGHTLY higer than the bet, this lifts the board up a hair and supports it – eliminated my snipe
2) If you dont line #2 above, just lift slightly on the end of the board as you feed it in and out and you will be good.

But honestly #1 was my big problem, forgetting to set the head lock….