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DeWalt RAS (1400) Motor Issue - help please!

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Forum topic by andy49 posted 08-15-2011 04:22 AM 2672 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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andy49

24 posts in 1222 days


08-15-2011 04:22 AM

Hi guys, am a newbie to the site and am looking forward to being a part of it. I recently acquired an old (1964) DeWalt Radial Arm, Model 1400. It is in beautiful condition, bought it from a 78 year old man who bought it new in February ‘64. I brought it home and immediately started working on a heavier duty version of the original table with the drop leaf feature. Anyway, I got the table done and then was excited to fire it up. Unfortunately when I tunred it on, the motor hummed but didn’t turn. I immediately turned it off and tried again. More hum but no turning the shaft. Turned key off then back on and hit the start, a bit of hum then nothing…..........not even any hum. A friend of mine suggested it may be the capacitor so I got a new one from Grainger, hooked it up, still nothing.

The original capacitor had two white wires hardwired to it. I had to cut the wires off, strip, and put crimp down female connectors. While working on the shorter wire, the other end came loose. Not sure where it was attached…........there was a small wire nut with a blue and red wire in it and another larger wire nut with white, yellow and green wires into it. I hooked to the small wire nut as it looked to be the likely hook up. Nothing.

If anybody can point me in the right direction as to where to attach the longer white wire going to the capacitor as well as offer any other advice as to the problem, please let me know. I don’t know anything about electric tool motors, just am a hobbyist that likes wood and making sawdust.


19 replies so far

View sawblade1's profile

sawblade1

754 posts in 1771 days


#1 posted 08-15-2011 04:25 AM

PICS ? :)

-- Proverbs Ch:3 vs 5,6,7 Trust in the lord with all thine heart and lean not unto your own understanding but in all your ways aknowledge him and he shall direct your path elmerthomas81@neo.rr.com

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andy49

24 posts in 1222 days


#2 posted 08-23-2011 05:21 AM

Sawblade – sorry but I didn’t notice your request for a photo until now. In any event, I think I’m good to go. Found out in the meantime that there is a small metal tang on the relay the other end of the cap wire needs to get soldered to. So thanks for your offer of help anyway…..............if it turns out not to be the capacitor, then on to contingency plan B!b Look forward to being a part of the LJ fraternity and learning new things related to making sawdust.

Take care,

Andy

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andy49

24 posts in 1222 days


#3 posted 08-24-2011 04:53 AM

Sawblade – well…........connected the cap wire to the metal tang it had come loose from and hit the switch – nothing at all. Any suggestions as to what to look at next? I didn’t think the switch was an issue considering the motor hummed but didn’t turn the shaft and then the motor made no hum. Still worth checking the switch or is there something else you suggest I consider next in troubleshooting?

Thanks,

Andy

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

2032 posts in 1238 days


#4 posted 08-24-2011 01:37 PM

Andy, do you have a volt-ohm meter to trace power. Those saws have a Klixon (red button on the side of the motor) that sometimes fails…when they do the motor does not get electric. Using a VOM will make sure you have juice everywhere there should be juice. One other thing, does the motor spin freely when turned by hand (unplugged, of course). I have a 925 (very similar) with a Klixon that apparently went bad, and the owner just removed it. Not recommending that (I intend to replace mine) but it may be a way to check everything else out.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Taigert's profile

Taigert

593 posts in 2585 days


#5 posted 08-24-2011 08:01 PM

Did you run the saw prior to paying for it.
I would do what Merle said and follow the power where the power stops is most likely your problem
This may sound like a dumb question, ayr you sure your runnung the correct voltage perhaps the motor is wired for 220 and your rinning 110 or the other way around.
If you dont know it woildn’t hurt to ask to guy you got the saw from

-- Taigert - Milan, IN

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3203 posts in 1420 days


#6 posted 08-24-2011 08:05 PM

Don’t let the smok out because that ruins a motor. Is this a 110V motor or a 220V motor?

View andy49's profile

andy49

24 posts in 1222 days


#7 posted 08-25-2011 02:51 AM

Hey guys, thanks for all the the feedback. Let me cover a few things…....the saw ran fine when I looked at it before buying and ran when I got it home. Guy I got if from is a great guy, 78 years old, who in fact was an electrician for Black & Decker in Maryland before retiring. I called him but he didn’t have much to offer other than the capacitor, admitted he’s not much of a motor troubleshooter.

But after completing the new table, I got the hum and then no hum, nothing. Replaced the capacitor, still nothing. The saw is set up for 110, has always been. Checked my outlet and breaker – everything else with a cord runs fine plugged into it. I do not have a volt-ohm meter but am sure I can find a friend who has one that knows how to troubleshoot for juice failure. As for the shaft, yes it spins freely with the saw off. There is a red reset button on the side of the motor and I have tried that several times and still nothing. Will report back after I see if I can diagnose the juice issue.

Thanks again for all your help, guys.

Andy

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

2032 posts in 1238 days


#8 posted 08-25-2011 01:18 PM

Quote Andy 49: There is a red reset button on the side of the motor and I have tried that several times and still nothing. Will report back after I see if I can diagnose the juice issue.

That red reset button is the Klixon to which I referred. It may have failed in a way that won’t reset. Btu a cheap VOM ($10 or so) will tell you where the power is (and isn’t).

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View andy49's profile

andy49

24 posts in 1222 days


#9 posted 08-26-2011 04:47 AM

Fred – thanks for your suggestion. Tonight, with the new cap attached(but not yet soldered) I hit the reset button and I got the hum again, but no turning the shaft. So with a hum, any ideas as to what it could be?

Andy

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3203 posts in 1420 days


#10 posted 08-26-2011 04:52 AM

It still counds like a capacitor. Is it possible that there could be more than one capacitor. I have heard of start capacitors and run capacitors. It could have a short in the motor winding. If you can’t come up with a solution easily then make arrangements to take it to a motor repair shop. I have a friend that bought a Powermatic table saw. It was wired for 220V. He ran it at the seller’s house, bought it, took it home and it would not run. He looked into a new motor but the man at the store told him before they ordered it he should take the entire saw to a particular shop. The man got it in his pickup again and drove it there. They ran a drop cord to the truck and plugged the saw in. The lady listens to the motor hum and unplugged it. she went into the control panel and changed 2 wires and it ran fine. $20 please.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

2032 posts in 1238 days


#11 posted 08-26-2011 01:11 PM

Well, I went back through the posts: you’re sure it’s wired 120V, it worked when you got it home, the hum seems to indicate you have power. It sure sounds like a bad capacitor. I actually had one of my Dewalt RAS that was wired 240V, and the owner hooked to up to a 120V line, the motor turns, but very slowly. With a VOM you can check the capacitor (you need some info about it) but without that, maybe it time to take the motor to a shop and ask them to check. Should be inexpensive, adn amy solve your problem.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View MarcusM's profile

MarcusM

36 posts in 1725 days


#12 posted 08-26-2011 04:44 PM

Andy, if the saw had been sitting for awhile mostly unused, it’s possible that the brake in the motor has gotten a little sticky and it didn’t disengage properly the last time the motor was shut off. Just a thought.

Mark

-- Tilbilly Mark

View Tennessee's profile

Tennessee

1555 posts in 1259 days


#13 posted 08-26-2011 07:32 PM

I disagree with everybody. If it has a capacitor, and it’s humming, then it probably has a start winding switch in the motor which is stuck or full of dust and the contacts aren’t making. The start windings kick in with the cap as long as those contacts are made, and at about 75% RPM, the weights on the switch swivel out, the contacts release, and the main winding takes over. Called a capicator start, induction run motor and very common on power tools like radial arms.
Look into blowing out the motor extremely well, but that may not do it. If the switch is stuck and the contacts are not making, you ain’t going anywhere.

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

12951 posts in 1438 days


#14 posted 08-26-2011 07:56 PM

I’m glad you’re making headway with your repair. I’d still LOVE to see it, though, not that I can help you; just because it’s a very cool machine!

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View Craig's profile

Craig

23 posts in 1328 days


#15 posted 08-27-2011 04:42 AM

Sounds simple, but make sure the blade isn’t contacting the the table? Since you redid the table, do you need to raise the blade?

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