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Maloof's Finish dissolved PVA based wood putty?

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Forum topic by gct posted 08-13-2011 05:08 PM 1085 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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gct

8 posts in 1571 days


08-13-2011 05:08 PM

I’m working on a table top that I was planning to finish with some Maloof’s, and I filled several cracks with some homemade wood putty (elmer’s + sawdust). It looked great going into finishing, but when I put the Maloof’s finish on all my filled cracks seemed to turn black and dissolve, so I’ve got honking great gaps I have to fix now. What went wrong and how can I avoid it in the future?!


7 replies so far

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Loren

7825 posts in 2398 days


#1 posted 08-13-2011 06:08 PM

Go with putty in a can. I’ve made my own putties over the years but
the performance has never been as good as the different ones I’ve
tried off the shelf.

You might want to look at the oil-based putties.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

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gct

8 posts in 1571 days


#2 posted 08-13-2011 07:47 PM

The table is mahogany and bubinga, and unfortunately all the big gaps seem to be where I need to fill bubinga. do you know anyone that sells bubinga putty?

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Steven H

1114 posts in 1811 days


#3 posted 08-13-2011 07:56 PM

Next time apply the maloof finish first,let dry, then fill in the cracks.

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gct

8 posts in 1571 days


#4 posted 08-13-2011 08:27 PM

@Steven I had to sand the filler down to get the top smooth, how would that work if I applied the finish first?

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rickyrosan

1 post in 1440 days


#5 posted 08-13-2011 08:33 PM

I have been restoring old furniture, manufacturing and restoring conference tables for the last 30 years or so and my experience with putties has not been the best. I have tried many types and brands and the one I believe is the best by far for deep cracks …believe it or not is : AUTOMOBILE BODYFILLER with a catalyst . The brand I use is BODY GOLD from NAPA. It dries very fast even in very deep cracks about 15 to 20 minutes and is easily sandable and it definitely does not crack. The trick is to touch it up with colors so that it won’t show up under the finish. I usually use touch up crayons which i apply in combination in order to get the final color. You can match any wood color over the body filler with a little bit of patience and imagination . I use artistic color pencils which are available at most art suppliers. You can even use CRAYOLA pencils (not the wax type)...don’t worry they are color fast and they don’t reject most finishes (EXCEPT POLYESTER WHICH ATTACKS COLORS because of the Peroxide component that has to be added along with cobalt liquid . If you decide to use Polyester finish I recommend a wash coat of Polyurethane which you have to scuff sand but still don’t flood the first coat . You have to go easy… With a bit of imagination you can mimic natural veins in the wood or natural defects and knots. So remember : try Body Filler with catalyst plus coloring pencils if you have doubts about the other putties or worried about shrinkage.

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gct

8 posts in 1571 days


#6 posted 08-13-2011 11:48 PM

What kind of epoxy do you like to use?

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

11535 posts in 1441 days


#7 posted 08-14-2011 04:20 AM

I use Timber Mate grain filler matched to the wood I’m using. Apply the grain filler to the gaps/splits unthinned, sand, and then finish. The Brazilian Cherry chairs I just finished with Spar have invisable repairs. I love this stuff for fixing cracks/splits as well as for filling porous grained woods. It needs to be thinned for filling grain.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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