Edge Banding Veneer Plywood

when you glue on the banding, set up a board along the seam between the ply and solid wood, then clamp it on both sides of the seam. both pieces will be pulled tight to the board, making them flush to one another. make sure you use some wax paper to keep the squeezed out glue from sticking the board to your workpiece.

There’s not much room to do much if you’re not exactly dead solid perfect on your joint. My approach would be to, with a sanding block, ease the edge of the two mating surfaces so there is a very slight V-groove where they join. Small differences in height will disappear, and the joint will in fact become a design element.

Kindly,

Lee

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

I’ve tried Bent’s idea and it didn’t work very well. The problem is that the ply can NEVER be above the solid wood or you’ll experience that stomach wretching, sick feeling you get when you sand thru the paper thin plywood veneer.

Lee’s idea works if the design of the piece can accept a groove where the solid wood meets the plywood.

When I do this, I start with a piece of domestic plywood with the thickest veneer I can get. I mill my solid wood to a thickness slightly greater than the ply (1/64” – 1/32”). When I do the glue up, I run my finger along every inch of the joint(s) to ensure that the solid wood is slightly proud of the ply.

After removing the clamps, I use a card scraper to shave the solid wood flush with the ply, then sand the entire piece.

-- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it.

You can glue up with the solid slightly high. Then mark a pencil line at the joint line, just on the solid piece. Sand or plane very carefully at a slight angle so that the outer edge of the solid is becoming slightly lower than the glued edge. When you start to sand the pencil line, you will have a visual sign that you’re very close. Then you can tilt your sanding block to almost dead level and carefully finish the edge.

This works well and is a lot easier than I’ve made it sound. If you keep the tilt slight, you’ll never notice it.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

I would not use biscuits. The T & G joint is the best to use. You will need a micrometer or dial caliper to do it right.

Don, when I use veneered boards and add a solid wood edging I use the router to flush trim the edges. I have made a raised base plate so the router base is 1/4” above the surface. I then place the home made base on my table saw top and plunge the cutter to just touch the top and lock it off. Then I run the router along the edge of the solid wood edging trimming it flush with the veneer. I then finish off with a very light sanding and dont have to worry about cutting through the veneer. HTH.

-- www.alanwilley.co.uk