|Forum topic by Northern||posted 852 days ago||2353 views||0 times favorited||3 replies|
852 days ago
Working with my Dad to refinish some 3/4” thick pine flooring of varying lengths. It’s 4 3/8” wide. The plan was to chop ends off with chop saw, plane a little off the top (some are varnished other are not), clean old varnish out of tongue and groove with router (not recut T/G).
Planing with the Ridgid 13” thickness planer has been OK, not much snipe, although like others have said, the extension tables are “interesting”. I am contempmating taking them off once we get rollers. For now, they seem sufficiently level given the amount of snipe. We are still working on getting accurate thickness (read on here about jointing the face first before planing) etc, but our big problem and debate is the router stage.
Short pieces are no problem, it’s the longer ones we are having issue with. My dad has a router table setup, and we are moving the board, not the router. We have guides clamped on, but the cut side is slightly thinner, so we have tried to compensate with our clamped on guide, and with the long boards it really makes it hard to control left/right movment. We hope to pick up some rollers, but I am not sure that will solve the side to side motion. My dad thinks we should cut the boards to 6’ ( the ” long” ones are between 8’ and 10’), while I think we should clamp the board to the work table and make a guide to move router along the board. The rooms these boards are going in are between 12’ 2” and 12’6” long and about 8’5” wide. Would cutting the flooring shorter make the finished floor look really bad?
Also, any tips for moving long pieces through a jointer? Besides using rollers of course.