Witch Lacquer?

For the non yellowing I think the Sherwin Williams “Water White” lacquer is good

My local Sherwin Williams only had semigloss in stock, But I wanted gloss, since I wanted to be able to rub out to whatever sheen I would choose.

I instead went with Deft Brushing lacquer from the Big Box – the stuff works great, excellent build. But it would not meet your criteria of non yellowing.
Good Luck

-- "_If we did all the things we are capable of doing, we would literally astonish ourselves_." Edison

Ill look into the shermin williams.

Anyone played with Mohawk piano finish lacquer? an NC lacquer i believe

Maybe someone can clear up for me too. Ive heard people talk about “bar top grade NC lacquer”, like theres a step up in the NC that near approaches pre cat levels? What exactly is that because I have a hard time trying to distinguish everything apart.

Will – Not sure if any of these finishes get you out of the max thickness ‘problem’

Even with finish the wood continues to move with moisture and the seasons. The max thickness represents what the coating will withstand from seasonal movement and not crack. Much like veneer only acts like veneer (stability) till a certain thickness, then it has all the challenges of solid wood movement.

-- "_If we did all the things we are capable of doing, we would literally astonish ourselves_." Edison

DrDirt- Im not so hung up on the “max thickness” from the point of view that i purposely wanna build something extremely thick. Its more from the standpoint of a hvlp novice. The post cat stuff and CV have much more strict thickness to stay within. My impression from luthiers and such is that old style nitro cellulose lacquer has been applied numerous numerous times. 20+ light coats even.

That aspect flat out just makes it easy for me to not mess up, to thin, to thick, ect. And since Nitro burns into the last layer I dont have to worry a bout layer thickness so when I put a buffer to it I dont have to worry about burning through a layer.

If my concerns are to exxagertaed feel free to re-inform me please.

Will I understand completely – Your reasons are also why I like spraying DEFT. It has a bunch of retarders in it to make it brushable – - so instead of a 30 minute dry time it is 2 hours on the can. However it also makes it nearly impossible to get streaks, or orange peel, as it really levels well.

My second post about thickness – was I was worried you wanted a really thick “Bar top” finish or something, so I was pointing out that maybe Lacquer wasn’t the best choice for that kind of application.

-- "_If we did all the things we are capable of doing, we would literally astonish ourselves_." Edison

I used Sherwin Williams N.C. lacquer on several projects and found it to perform well. Availability is good due to the vast number of SW dealers throughout the Nation.

Recently I switched to Magnalac® Clear manufactured by M.L. Campbell Finishes. This is a pre-catalyzed nitrocellulose lacquer which in my opinion has a clearer finish and builds thickness faster. In evaluating various products, look at the KCMA rating which identifies performance levels of different types of finishes. The drawback with M.L. Campbell Finishes is limited distribution and is generally only available in larger cities. There are several on-line sellers however.

-- Arvid, Spring Texas

I suggest “eye of newt” lacquer… ;)

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