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Thin Kerf Vs Standard Kerf on a 10" FTG Circular Saw Blade

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Forum topic by rwachtell posted 1067 days ago 2855 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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rwachtell

5 posts in 1067 days


1067 days ago

I make spline joints on picture frames and this BLOG has been very helpful in providing me info on the type of blade I wish to use for cutting splines.

I need a new blade for my table saw and I have narrowed it down to one of two blades, the Freud 24Tooth FTG standard kerf and the Freud 24Tooth FTG thin kerf. Can anybody tell me the difference in performance in these two blades based on the kerf thickness? I will also be using this blade to rip lots of 5/4 soft maple. Will the thinner kerf hold up to lots of ripping as well as the regular kerf? Which one will rip better? I have a small Makita Table saw that uses a 10” blade.

Thanks in advance.


9 replies so far

View Viktor's profile

Viktor

447 posts in 2004 days


#1 posted 1066 days ago

Thin kerf will be better, especially on a small saw. It is noticeably quieter, wastes less material, and the feed rate is greater (potentially less burning). Some people complain about the stability of thin kerf blades, others don’t notice any problems.

It will probably hold up to ripping better than regular kerf. Although you have the same amount of material to be removed per unit width (of the blade), your feed rate is likely to be greater with thin kerf, hence each tooth will be removing thicker shavings. It will also generate less heat.

On the down side it seems to me that thin kerf blades tend to have thinner carbide tips (less room for re-sharpening). Perhaps it was just my impression, because I can’t back it up by any actual data.

View DLCW's profile

DLCW

522 posts in 1240 days


#2 posted 1066 days ago

I’ve been using thin kerf rip and crosscut for many years. I use a regular kerf laminate blade for plywood and a regular kerf combo blade once in a great while (once or twice a year).

I have an adjustable blade stabilizer that has been really good a making sure the blade is perfectly aligned. Like Viktor, it is quieter, reduces waste and it reduces the load on your table saw motor.

-- Don, Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks - http://www.dlwoodworks.com - "If you make something idiot proof, all they do is make a better idiot"

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acducey

65 posts in 1090 days


#3 posted 1066 days ago

I recently got a new Freud thin kerf blade for a 1-1/2 HP table saw and couldn’t be happier with the results.

View ferstler's profile

ferstler

333 posts in 2105 days


#4 posted 1066 days ago

I use the thin-kerf Freud Diablo version of that blade in my Ridgid 4510 jobsite saw and it works very well, indeed. Thin kerf blades are a good idea if you have a portable-type saw that lacks the rotational power of a good contractor or larger saw. I have also used the Freud Industrial thin-kerf ripping blade in it with excellent results as well.

I love those red blades.

Howard Ferstler

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5354 posts in 1961 days


#5 posted 1066 days ago

A 1/8” full kerf blade is 33% wider than a 3/32” thin kerf, and requires more power to make the same cut. If all else is equal, the TK will strain your saw’s motor less. A TK will have more tendency to flex than the full kerf, but it’s rarely much of an issue with a good quality blade like the Freud. The mass of a full kerf blade will usually handle the heat of extended ripping sessions better than the TK.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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Howie

2656 posts in 1508 days


#6 posted 1066 days ago

I use freud TK’s and am well satisfied. Never had a problem. I use them on a Ridgid 3650.

-- Life is good.

View MontanaBob's profile

MontanaBob

417 posts in 1269 days


#7 posted 1066 days ago

I’ve found that the thin kerf blades work good for cross cutting or ripping….but I think the flex in the thin blade is not good when cutting 45 mitres in a hard wood. (At least I couldn’t find any other reason that the mitres have at times been off way to much) I’ve never had trouble with this problem with a thicker blade….....

-- To realize our true destiny, we must be guided not by a myth from our past, but by a vision of our future

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5354 posts in 1961 days


#8 posted 1066 days ago

You could be right MontanaBob, but I wouldn’t automatically attribute your results to the fact that it was a TK. It could have been due to the particular blade you used, as opposed to all TK’s.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View mediowoodworker's profile

mediowoodworker

2 posts in 852 days


#9 posted 852 days ago

The main thing here is that you are using this blade for splines. If you want this blade dedicated for splines only, then regular kerf is better. Splines are usually 1/8”. Thin kerf is narrow so getting thinner wood into the spline joint if tougher.

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