Which is the best general purpose table saw blade? Freud or WW 2?

ive heard amazing things about the Woodworker 2 blade but if you don’t have the 120$ to spend then i would go with the Freud Avanti. both are amazing blades though.

-- if you haven't already check out my blog http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/teenagewoodworker/blog/3961

I use an Italy made CMT cabinetshop blade (221.060.10) I like the quality and the results of this blade, around $60. I’ll be upgrading to the WII soon, 40T thin kerf with stiffeners.

-- "Everyone is an artist." (Joseph Beuys, German artist, 1921-85)

I like the 40T WWII I have better than the Freud 50T I also have.

I buy my WWII’s for ~$95 from Coastal Tool. Others also sell them for under $100, there’s no reason to pay $120 for one.

I have the WW 2 Forrest blade on my TS. I had to cut a couple of birch plywood shelves and wanted to do a good job of it, so I ended getting a zero clearance insert. The combination of the blade and the insert, gave me a good splitter-free cut.

I have read many reviews on the web and have seen as many discussions on LJ with saw blade recommendations. I don’t think you can go too far afield with either the Freud or the Forrest. The Freud combination blades may be more reasonably priced and may be as good.

You may want to do a LJ search for discussions. Rockler, sawmillcreek and fine woodworking have articles/reviews of saw blades as well.

Good luck finding the right blade.

Dalec

Before you spend any money on a new blade try this technique when cutting plywood.
1) layout your cut lines across the plywood piece.
2) run painters masking tape over the cut line on both sides of the piece (you can mark the edges of the plywood piece to line up the cut when the cut line on top is covered with tape).
3) Cut with your current Ridgid blade.

Unles you’re doing production carcass work, the few extra minutes it takes to apply the masking tape definitely should solve the problem. You may still have to use this techique even with a more expensive blade (I have a WW 2 in my Unisaw).

Another technique is to oversize the plywood piece by 1/4” on all sides and clamp a straight edge along each side while you run a bearing guided straight cut router bit to cut the excess. This will also eliminate splintering, and you don’t have to tape the edge you’re routing.

-- Gerry

I’ve never tried the Forrest plywood blade, but I have 4 Woodworker II blades, two 30 and two 40 tooth. They are the best blades I’ve ever owned. The oldest one has been resharpened so many times I’m about ready to either have it retipped (80% of the new price cost) or get another one. I’ve used them to cut plywood with good results. If the price tag is too high for you, they will sharpen any blade using their process. I have a 80 tooth blade on my miter saw (Delta blade) that I had them replace a couple of broken tips and resharpen. It cost about $54. Your saw blades are just like chisels and hand planes, if they’re not sharp, the results are not going to be very good.

-- Tim -- http://tmuli.com

comes down to a decision between platinum or gold.. Both expensive and both good. Look at your budget and choose

-- making sawdust....

Marc, The WW2 gets top marks but I am using a Glue Line rip from Freud. I was given a Freud Melamine/ plywood blade by the guys a Wood Craft. It is excellent and I recommend it.

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

I use the WW2 thin kerf. Works great. Better than my Freud.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

I think at least two blades are in order here. I have a Freud 50T combination blade that gets a lot of use, but I don’t like it as well for fine plywood. My Freud 60T type AB crosscut blade gives me an excellent cut in plywood, with only the slightest amount of tear-out. I have now added a Freud 80T type Hi AT crosscut blade that should do even better for plywood and laminates.

-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"

I use the WW2 for hardwoods and plywood. I can cut plywood without splintering. The only time I have had trouble with getting chip free plywood is when the blade is dull.

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

The problem I’ve found is that after just a few passes, an otherwise fabulous blade will chip-out on ply. That’s why they make scoring saws. So I started running ply over ANY blade with a scoring cut first. I know, I know, it sucks having to run it twice but it has totally eliminated chip-out for me. I’ve tried the masking tape too, but I prefer raising the blade for a second pass, it’s less work and saves tape.

Otherwise, right now I’m giving a good workout to one of those new Freud Glue-Line Combi blades. It’s a 60 tooth .128” kerf [perfect for building my blade box] and is an ATB w/raker design. I am very satisfied so far. It retails for $100 but I found one for $50 on eBay. Sweet!

I’ve also had good luck with DML, Amana, P-C, Craftsman, Oldham, Bosch and Rigid. The key is understanding that no one blade will be great at everything. I keep a combi on the saw but I can nab a finish, rip or thin kerf blade and swap it out pronto as the need dictates. Also, blades are like other tools, choose the best blade that you can afford and keep it sharp! I won’t buy a blade that can’t be resharpened. Also, get to know your sharpener, he can be a real asset and a great practical consultant.

always,
J.C.

-- "Imagination is more important than knowledge" -- Albert Einstein

I use a WW2 thin kerf and it works great. I also have a Forrest stiffener.

-- Paul D, Atlanta GA

I love my Forrest saw blades! Won’t buy any other.

-- I get payed to play with power tools! What could be better than that?

I had the WW II for several years. It has done an excellent job. That said, I was given the new Freud Fusion blade. The test cuts I made with it are as good as any I can get from the WW II. Wood magazine recently did a review of saw blades. They broke the review into sections based on the cost of the blade. This review covered two issues. The first issue they did the review before getting the Freud Fustion blade. Then the next month included the freud. I highly recommend getting a copy of that article. pkennedy

-- P Kennedy Crossville, TN

Where it matters, I also make scoring cuts on plywood.

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

I agree with Sparky. I’ve used Freud blades for years, but I just bought a WWII and after that I bought the flat grind blade. I’ll never use any other brand again.

-- Greg, CT

What flat grind blade? The WW II has a falt grind?

I got a thin kerf Diablo by Freud that was recommended in the Wood article as the best buy, but I think that after having to buy a blade stiffener, too, I may save time and money by buying the WW II.

I willl look for one at Woodcraft tomorrow when I go to the “big city,” Tucson.

God Bless,
Hawg

-- Saving barnwood from the scrapyards