Where can I find waterborne pigmented lacquer locally or online?

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Forum topic by Woodworker123 posted 08-05-2011 08:25 PM 7238 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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89 posts in 2849 days

08-05-2011 08:25 PM

Topic tags/keywords: refinishing lacquer waterborne pigmented broyhill credenza hvlp

I just bought a Fuji mini-mite 3 HVLP system and I’m dying to use it. If I could only find the finish I’m looking for…

I cannot find water borne pigmented lacquer (white) locally in Austin. ML Campbell doesn’t have a distributor in Austin. Sherwin Williams stores in Austin don’t carry Aqua KEM, and they even told me they cannot special order it for me. All I see on Woodcraft’s website is clear lacquers, and I would imagine that’s all they have at the big box stores as well. Target EMTECH EM6000 came up in searches, but on their website I don’t see this finish available pigmented. I’d prefer to find something locally, but would buy online if shipping costs don’t make it prohibitive.

Oh, is there a sealer (such as Deft sander/sealer, or a dewaxed shellac) that I should have no problem getting locally, spraying with this HVLP turbine system, and not having to wonder if the waterborne pigmented lacquer I choose will be compatible? That’ll at least give me something to do while I try to hunt down a lacquer.

Thanks for any suggestions!

Here is the first project, a Broyhill credenza bought cheaply at a second hand store. Planning on refinishing in white lacquer and possibly milling replacement drawer pulls out of brass or stainless.

11 replies so far

View Woodworker123's profile


89 posts in 2849 days

#1 posted 08-05-2011 08:29 PM

It’d be a bonus if whichever sealer/primer I use is also adequate for MDF, since I need to make some replacement shelves for a book case soon.

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Alan S

181 posts in 3313 days

#2 posted 08-05-2011 09:36 PM

I’ve never heard of buying pre-colored water-based lacquer like you are talking about. What I’ve read about is adding separate dyes to clear top-coats to achieve the exact color you want. Target coatings recommends EM1000 as this is clear in the can rather than EM6000 which is milky in the can, I guess so you can see the color when you mix it.

I haven’t bought EM1000, but I do have some EM6000 and have mixed GF water-based dye stains into it and sprayed some alder. It works pretty well and you can mix your dyes to get the exact color you want.

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89 posts in 2849 days

#3 posted 08-05-2011 10:11 PM

I think there is a difference between pigmented lacquer and dyed lacquer. I have read about using dyes to get a specific color in lacquer, but what I’m talking about is an opaque coating, specifically, white. I think that’s the difference between pigmented lacquers (opaque) and dyed lacquers (translucent). I could be completely wrong though.

Here are some examples of pigmented lacquers. Both of which unavailable locally as best I can tell :/

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Alan S

181 posts in 3313 days

#4 posted 08-05-2011 10:16 PM

Interesting! Good luck in your search!

View POGO's profile


19 posts in 2880 days

#5 posted 08-06-2011 12:29 AM

I switched over to M.L. Campbell products and found them to be worth the extra money. I by them from Murphy Brothers Paint however you wlill need to go to San Antonio to purchase the product.

-- Arvid, Spring Texas

View trimmer's profile


90 posts in 3436 days

#6 posted 08-06-2011 01:12 AM
Use Zinser BINS For your primer.
Very good results for me!!!!

View SteveN's profile


21 posts in 4238 days

#7 posted 08-06-2011 01:39 AM

Jack, I don’t think you need to “refinish” the cabinet. It does not look that bad. I think a good cleaning, some sanding with 220 free-cut with some extra sanding to feather out the ruff spots is all you may need.

I you color choice is white then after prepping spray on Bullseye Kills. It is white and covers well. You may need 2-3 coats. One of the benefits of using this product is that it is shellac based and will help seal surface continents that cause fish eye which is very common on your type of project. Made in the 60’s it has probably had several coats of pledge or other silicone containing polishes applied, the refinisher’s worst enemy.

Sand between coats with 320-220 to smooth out ruff spots. Let dry overnight and apply clear top coats of whatever sheen you want. You can use water based, solvent based lacquers (get the non yellowing type) or acrylics.

I’m not a fan of water based finishes on furniture. They are getting better but you just can’t get the look of a fine finish with then yet and they are harder to apply.

-- Steve Nearman,,, Fredericksburg, VA

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89 posts in 2849 days

#8 posted 08-06-2011 01:50 AM

Thanks trimmer, I’m going to pick up a quart of that or the Bullseye later and give it a shot. I doubt there is much of a difference so I’ll just get whatever they have cheaper.

Steve, it may not look that bad in this cell phone pic, but it is, especially on the side. Plus I started sanding the old finish off a few hours ago so it’s too late now :)

I hadn’t thought of silicone issues, but I am sanding the entire previous finish off before hand. The only exception is the interior, which I was planning on roughing up, but not completely removing. If I am remembering correctly, the shellac primer/sealer will stick to most finishes.

How much of a different in look is there between using a white primer with clear lacquer or varnish on top versus a white pigmented lacquer or varnish. I assumed they would give much different results, otherwise I wouldn’t be going through all the trouble of trying to find pigmented lacquer locally. Then again, I don’t know why I assumed a flatter pigmented lacquer would look better than a deeper clear on top of paint or shellac (in my head, that’s how they would differ).

View Mark Kornell's profile

Mark Kornell

1169 posts in 2526 days

#9 posted 08-08-2011 03:39 AM


Target Coatings does have the white WB lacquer available – here’s the link:

If you need it tinted something other than white, call or email them. Although I don’t see anything on their website, yheir newsletter mentions that they do custom tinting.

-- Mark Kornell, Kornell Wood Design

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89 posts in 2849 days

#10 posted 08-08-2011 03:45 AM

Thanks. Since it’s just a base coat, and would need a clear coat in whatever sheen I want, I wonder if there is any benefit over using this white shellac primer/sealer, and then going directly over it with clear lacquer.

View RonWoods's profile


18 posts in 2483 days

#11 posted 08-08-2011 01:53 PM

Have you tried ebay, they have about almost everything there. At times you can’t even imagine what you can find there. If you haven’t, then give it a try and do a site research and see what shows up.

-- I need your woodworking ideas and questions on a Woodworking Survey. You can find the survey on my profile page. Earn a reward after filled up.

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