Little help? PM 54A jointer infeed table frozen

Try a little better penetrating oil. Kroil, PB Blaster or even some ATF and kerosene.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

Thanks Ken, you know anything about this jointer? It appears that the infeed table is adjusted by a lever crank that can be stopped along its arc’d path by a locking knob; once locked, it looks like you can fine adjust for height using the threads on the crank. I’ve tried everything and it won’t budge. I’ve never used this jointer before; I probably should have investigated before I purchased it. The manual’s no help. It just says “raise the infeed table”.

I’ll pick up some PB tomorrow.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

Al, the color coordination is exquisite.

Second the Kroil or the brew. They’re top o’ the heap for breaking things loose.

-- "...in his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

I agree with Ken. Just keep pumping the stuff to it. It’ll come eventually.

-- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m)

I am not familiar with this jointer. I tend to use Kroil as a good penetrating oil instead of WD40. I have found that the Kroil works really well on the old, rusty machines I seem to drawn to. I have also used the ATF mixture as well. In fact, the ATF mixture is probably the optimum for penetration. You might take a look at the Powermatic site and see if there is a manual available, if you dont have one. I would shy away from the blue wrench, torch, the paint is really nice but wont be after the blue wrench

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

Thanks guys, I’ll look for some Kroil. I’m guessing automotive store? I appreciate y’all taking the time. Al.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

Congrats thats a nice jointer.

-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker

I had a delta approx. early 60 s vintage that had some really tiny allen head set screws to tighten down once the beds were where you wanted them. Seems like they were machined on the plane of the dovetail way and just above the sliding joint. I never knew they were there until I needed to adjust once. Anyhow that was delta and ten years or so back. BTW that 54a is a fine looking machine. I was going to buy one on sale 6-7 yrs ago at fort worth woodcraft. I arrived at the store ten minutes before the posted closing time. The fellow inside beat me to the door and locked it yelling they were closed. Oh well, I still had the cash in my pocket and have not been back since. Back to the orig. subject: best I remember mine had two set screws on each side and did not stand out much cause they were painted gray like the machine. Good luck

PB Blaster is what I used on my marine stuff! Amazing stuff, gratz on the jointer.

No disrespect for WD40, but they aren’t in the same league

Al, I have that exact jointer and I like it a lot. You can download the manual here or the direct link. I’m sure you already checked this but there is a locking screw and travel limiter on the back side of the infeed table. Obvious I know but I missed it the first time I tried to adjust the infeed and it wouldn’t move.

Well, I tried to go back to a paper about testing penetrating oils. It didn’t work!! I think the ratio was 50/50. Acetone/power steering fluid. It was the best of all the things tested. I can’t remember if Kroil was listed but I know it beat WD-40 in a big way. Kroil is great….also PB Blaster. I think there is something locked down and this machine has never been used….since new.

Al,
This is why I always CLEAN any old or second hand new machine acquisition- I bet you have missed some little grub screw or similar item which is locking the bed….But if you are sure there is nothing hiding then the , er, judicious application of heat along the sliding ways will get it. Gas torch is best but even one of those heat guns may do.

Thank you so much, gentleman. I have already removed the lock-screw (a little wimpier than I expected on a machine like this) and loosened the gib screws. The gibs look pretty well locked in there and I wasn’t getting any movement of the bed last night. Immediately behind the depth lever there’s a casting connected to the articulated arm that is tapped. I put a large bolt in the tap and beat on it with a deadblow. Still nothing. I’ve got a torch but I’m scared to use it on that pretty paint (yes, David, scroat color; not yellow). It looks like there’s only so much the adjusting mechanism will take, so I’m not going to beat on it much more. I’ll try some chemical remedies before resorting to the torch.

Just in case, what color is Powermatic yellow!? In case I’m painting;)

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

Well Al, it looks like the machines no good, from all the research ive done the only thing that will cure a frozen Powermatic jointer is to send it to New England where the locals can swear and demean it until it gives up. Ive got just the right place for it buddy located dead in between NYC and Boston.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

Well, the facts are the facts, Christef. PM me your address and I’ll get this hunk of junk over to you. Does the post office have one of those “if it fits, it ships” boxes that’ll fit? ;)

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog