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Forum topic by twoblacklabs posted 09-12-2018 11:45 PM 502 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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twoblacklabs

262 posts in 2811 days


09-12-2018 11:45 PM

Steel City Tool Works (out of business) 10” Granite Table Cabinet Saw 1.75hp Model 35951G

I had not used it for the past 7-8 months as I recovered from surgery. Now, when I turn it on, nothing. There has been no damage to the saw itself. It has not been moved. There have not been any power surges that I am aware of and no other equipment in the shop including the computer have been damaged.

The blade spins freely by hand (with the expected motor resistance but nothing else).

I ensured the blade was free and clear then pressed/reset the “Thermal overload button” on the right side of the power switch housing. About every third or fourth attempt, after resetting the “Thermal overload button” between each attempted startup, the motor begins to turn and the blade rotates about 1/8-1/4” then I hear a “CLUNK”. My guess is that the clunk is the magnetic switch failing but I don’t really know.

Any suggestions will be appreciated.

-- If You Haven't Got the Time to Do It Right, When Will You Find the Time to Do It Over?


18 replies so far

View Kaleb the Swede's profile

Kaleb the Swede

1858 posts in 2089 days


#1 posted 09-13-2018 12:07 AM

Could be the the switch itself is fried. That happened to me. That looks like a standard plug, you should be able to find a replacement. Cutech now owns steel city. Maybe contact them?

-- Just trying to build something beautiful

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twoblacklabs

262 posts in 2811 days


#2 posted 09-13-2018 12:13 AM

Thanks. There is ohm across the “Thermal Overload”. I don’t know why the switch would have just died while it was NOT being used.

-- If You Haven't Got the Time to Do It Right, When Will You Find the Time to Do It Over?

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10240 posts in 4172 days


#3 posted 09-13-2018 01:05 AM

Sounds weird alright…

I’m looking fwd to knowing WHAT the cause was…

Good Luck…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

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CWWoodworking

83 posts in 299 days


#4 posted 09-13-2018 01:08 AM

When trouble shooting electrical components, start on the outside and work towards the middle. Motors are the least likely to fail.

With that said, I had a 16/32 sander that did something similar. The motor needed reworked.

Used to trouble shoot electric components for a living in a non related field. Most problematic components were the following:

Switch(by far)
Transformer
Cords
Motor

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Bill_Steele

407 posts in 1852 days


#5 posted 09-13-2018 02:07 PM

Is corrosion a possibility? On my contractor’s saw there is a plug connection between the on/off switch and the motor. I found some corrosion in that connection that affected startup. Once cleaned up the problem went away.

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theart

46 posts in 674 days


#6 posted 09-13-2018 03:25 PM

First, remove the belt. Turn the switch on, and test the AC voltage across the motor terminals. If you get full voltage there, the switch and cables are good. Then, with the power still on, try to spin the motor spindle manually. Again, take the belt all the way off before you do this. If the motor runs, then the problem is the start capacitor or start switch. If the motor doesn’t run, it’s a bad coil in the motor.

My guess is the start capacitor/switch, since the motor will occasionally make a partial turn.

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GR8HUNTER

4572 posts in 832 days


#7 posted 09-13-2018 03:39 PM

could also be the contacts got a little rusted sitting there look up cleaning centrifugal switch contacts possible CAP problem also :<))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

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mahdee

3973 posts in 1887 days


#8 posted 09-13-2018 04:25 PM

My lath did the same thing and it was the switch.

-- earthartandfoods.com

View dday's profile

dday

164 posts in 1549 days


#9 posted 09-13-2018 05:39 PM



First, remove the belt. Turn the switch on, and test the AC voltage across the motor terminals. If you get full voltage there, the switch and cables are good. Then, with the power still on, try to spin the motor spindle manually. Again, take the belt all the way off before you do this. If the motor runs, then the problem is the start capacitor or start switch. If the motor doesn t run, it s a bad coil in the motor.

My guess is the start capacitor/switch, since the motor will occasionally make a partial turn.

- theart

this ..

View twoblacklabs's profile

twoblacklabs

262 posts in 2811 days


#10 posted 09-13-2018 06:28 PM

Thanks for the support.

Replacement switch to arrive Saturday.

Thanks again,
John

-- If You Haven't Got the Time to Do It Right, When Will You Find the Time to Do It Over?

View Kaleb the Swede's profile

Kaleb the Swede

1858 posts in 2089 days


#11 posted 09-13-2018 07:31 PM

Glad you found it. Also hope you are feeling better after the surgery too. Best of luck

-- Just trying to build something beautiful

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10240 posts in 4172 days


#12 posted 09-14-2018 06:17 PM



First, remove the belt. Turn the switch on, and test the AC voltage across the motor terminals. If you get full voltage there, the switch and cables are good. Then, with the power still on, try to spin the motor spindle manually. Again, take the belt all the way off before you do this. If the motor runs, then the problem is the start capacitor or start switch. If the motor doesn t run, it s a bad coil in the motor.

My guess is the start capacitor/switch, since the motor will occasionally make a partial turn.

- theart

This procedure, IMHO, is RIGHT ON!

Very good logic / procedure!

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

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Joe Lyddon

10240 posts in 4172 days


#13 posted 09-14-2018 06:21 PM



Thanks for the support.

Replacement switch to arrive Saturday.

Thanks again,
John

- twoblacklabs

How can a switch go bad just sitting there? Makes no sense… unless corroded contacts, etc. (???)

Glad you’re getting a new switch…

I would take the old switch apart looking for the OBVIOUS fault… It cannot be very hard to spot… You might be able to fix it!! (with no pain or strain)... :)

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

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twoblacklabs

262 posts in 2811 days


#14 posted 09-16-2018 06:54 PM

The switch was definitely bad. One of the 4 contact points was completely burned away.

The replacement switch works fine. However, since it’s the exact same switch, I don’t really have that much faith that it won’t happen again.

-- If You Haven't Got the Time to Do It Right, When Will You Find the Time to Do It Over?

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

1234 posts in 694 days


#15 posted 09-16-2018 07:33 PM

Order a replacement now, keep it in a baggie taped inside the saw housing (windowpane tape it so it can’t possibly flap, and no where near a belt or other moving parts) so it’s ready to roll next time it goes bad.

That said this is the crap shoot of electrical parts in the year 2018, or recently before. Out of 100,00 parts easily 20% will fail to what most would call a premature life. If you have a replacement part there is no down time, or very little while you fix it. You know you have the part. How many posts here about I can’t find…...

The brightest part is you know the fix before it needs it.

Hoping it lasts 35 years.

-- Think safe, be safe

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