Dust Collectors

You might be able to find tandem 110 breakers for the box..two of those will free up two slots in your breaker box.

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

Hi tyler,

I think you have to make a decision about what it is you want to accomplish. In a 12X12 shop, that dust collector is going to take up a lot of space. You might want to stay portable. One big difference between 220 and 110 is that the motor will run at half the amps with 220. that means your 18Amp circuit will run at 9 amps. Of course it will take two circuits.

Check out this link. It is a pretty cool system by Oneida you can run on a shop vac. Keep the vac from clogging up with dust.

-- Scott - Chico California http://chicowoodnut.home.comcast.net

220 vs 110 is still 18amps total. 220 just splits it across the 2 hot legs. When wiring for 220, most shop equipment only uses Hot/Hot/Ground (not neutral). Most 2hp 220v motors can safely run on a 20amp 220 breaker. Use 12/2 wire to wire the circuit. (check with your local electrical inspector to see if this meets the local requirements) Most locals will allow you to do your own wiring, just get a permit (They don’t cost much for a small job) and the inspector will verify that you did the job correctly so your house does not burn down later.

-- Dave Herron, Boise, ID -- “That which does not crash the browser, makes it stronger”

I have one of the ones (possibly) you pictured from Delta which my wife bought for me from Amazon.

The 50-7xx models look similar. But I have the 50-760 and it works fabulous on a 15 amp circuit. It certainly could be set up to be a fixed installlation, but right now I have it mobile and usually position it so that I can quickly connect it to different machines. I purchased the following items from Rockler to make it easier to do so: 10’ hose and 4” quick disconnect, Rockler part #s 22791 and 37789.

The 50-760 is fantastic as it has 1 micron filtration, it is super quiet, and is very mobile.

You could take two side by side 110V breakers and replace them with a double that fits in the same space.
That would free up one slot. If you did this twice you could open up room to fit a 220v breaker in.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

I went with a 1029Z, too.

For the wiring, you may not be able to use tandem breakers. It has to do with the physical bus bar underneath the breaker. Do you know exactly which circuit breaker panel you have?

I wired a 220 with locking plug to a wall in the center of my shop so I could shift the DC from one end to the other as necessary. My shop is in the basement and I am very tight for space, so being able to move things around is critical for some projects.

The actual wiring portion is not hard, however, it is more than a trivial job without prior experience. As Dave mentioned, verify with the local building office if you are permitted to do the work yourself. Some situations forbid it, such as a multi-tenant home (duplex/etc.), single-family rental, commercial. Some cities simply forbid it.

Usually, though, in a single-family residence when occupied by the owner, the owner may perform electrical work with a permit and inspection.

The permit is not only so they can tax you accordingly, but to make certain that the work is done, at the minimum, to the current NEC standard. Something to consider is that if you have un-inspected electrical work your home insurance company can get pretty upset about paying off if something happens. If it’s been inspected, they can only smile and payup.

-- Made lots of sawdust and pounded some nails. Haven't finished anything, though.

The topic of doing your own wiring has come up on a couple of places I frequent recently, I can strongly recommend Rex Cauldwell’s “Wiring A House” from Taunton press. As others here have said, a permit is relatively cheap for a set of experienced eyes to look over what you’ve done, and it sounds like you could use a sub-panel anyway.

However, depending on how many circuits you already have feeding your shop, if you can dedicate one of those to your dust collector you may just want to upgrade it to 20A, upgrading the wiring accordingly.

If you’re considering the sub-panel route, make sure that your current electrical drop and main breakers/switches are sufficiently sized.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

Hi Tyler

I would reccomend getting The Delta 50-760 1 1/2 dust collector. Fine Wooworking rates it as #1 in its class. It runs on 110v and it would be perfect for your size shop. You can buy it at Tools Plus for $359.00 plus $6.50 shipping. As far as wiring, you are talking to the wrong guy.

God Bless
tom

-- Mc Bridge Cabinets, Iowa

Tyler, here’s one that won’t take much power at all. Couple of bowls of Wheaties in the morning and this will work for hours. ;0]

-- Tim -- http://tmuli.com

Any of the above machines work well. I like the Grizzly myself. My feeling about electrical advice is if you need to ask, you should get a pro to help. Fire is not your friend

-- making sawdust....

I like my brother-n-laws method cleaning the shop.

Just fire this baby up and clean it out in just a few minutes.

just to clarify the dust collector would be on the outside of my shop nexed to the door to reduce noise and to keep valuable space so size isn’t really an issue. I like the delta too but the $350 dollar pricetag instead of grzzlys $250 is alot more. I can’t fit anymore breakers in my pannle and ours cannot be used with tandem breakers. My dad has done electrical on his brothers house but not a subpanel. I will try to get the subpanel but I doubt my dad will want to mess with It. And since I’m paying for the project i don’t want to have to get an electrician to do it.

-- Tyler, Illinois

I have the Grizzly 2HP Dust Collector. I have it wired for 220. I am very satisfied with it. I use it most with my jointer, planer and router table. I don’t have it set up in any fancy manner. I just move the hose from machine to machine as needed. I can recommend the Grizzly DC. pkennedy

-- P Kennedy Crossville, TN

Another brand you may not have considered is Penn State. I have this dust collector, seems to work well & a good value for a 2hp w/1 micron bags LINK

In my case, I wired a 2nd 240 outlet in the shop using an existing panel spot that had been used for an old hot tub I removed, just had to switch the 50 amp breaker for a 30. Ran 10/3 w/gnd to the new outlet to allow for any future uses.

Dan

No personal experience with this one, but if cost is a major factor, 2hp/$169, : Harbor Freight

I can appreciate your limitations in space and electrical capacity. That’s where I came from. It’s obvious to me that you need a dust collector that can work on a 120V 15amp circuit. This is going to limit you to 1 HP, especially if there are some other things on the same electrical circuit.

For a 12’x 12’ shop, a 4” 2 HP ducted system is overkill. Even 3” ductwork on a 1HP dust collector will take up a lot of space. There is a definite quandry in attempting to build a permanently fixed ductwork system in a small shop where all machines need to be highly mobile. I think you will be better served with a smaller portable dust collector. For years I have used the Shopsmith DC3300 which has a footprint of only around 21”x 26”. New units may be above your budget but they can be purchased on eBay for around $200.

-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"

CAUTION——- 30AMP 220V KILLS!
AMPS ARE THE DEPTH OF THE WATER VOLTS ARE THE SPEED !

Quite honestly – If you are going into your electrical panel and you are not experienced, you are looking for trouble. Adding a branch outlet is one thing –
adding a breaker & wire pull to your shop without experience is an accident looking for a place to happen -

Breakers are meant to protect life and equipment———the concept- it trips on an overload or ground interuption! Incorrect wire can also overheat and cause a major situation before the breaker ever trips!

1- if they breaker is not correct it could hold off triping and you could overload the motor, ruining a machine and or creating a fire situation

2- if not grounded correctly you could risk major personal hazard.

Would suggest you get an electrician and wire to NEC (national electrical code or your local code)

Tyler concentrate on your woodworking and craft leave the electrical to the experts!

-- Bill - - Ad-Marketing Guy, Ramsey NJ