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Iron buff

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Forum topic by bbqking posted 193 days ago 162 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites
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bbqking

244 posts in 210 days


193 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question

I am getting ready to make a run of clocks and have decided to use iron buff instead of stain for the dark oak portions of them. This is the first time I’ve tried this. I made a trial batch and let it set for three weeks. After straining, I brushed it on a test piece of white oak and red oak. The white oak was nearly ebonized. The red oak darkened nicely, with interesting staining through the grain. I’d like to know if anyone else uses this and what their experiences were and any tips & etc.

-- bbqKing, Lawrenceville

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rikkor

7687 posts in 361 days


192 days ago

Never tried it. How did you make it?

-- Maplewood, MN

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Thos. Angle

3236 posts in 449 days


192 days ago

To make truly black leather or rawhide we make a strong tea solution and then add a bunch of rusty iron. Is this the same thing? soaking leather in this solution results in leather that is a deep blue black and the stain goes through the leather. I’ve never tried it on wood.

-- Thos. Angle, Owyhee Design, Oregon

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GaryK

8489 posts in 475 days


192 days ago

I would be interested in seeing some pictures. What did you use to make it?

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

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bbqking

244 posts in 210 days


192 days ago

It is (I guess) a centuries old way of darkening wood, oak especially. I made my batch with 0000 steel wool pulled into chunks and put in a closed jar with a pint of white vinegar. You let it set and the vinegar dissolves the iron in the steel wool. The longer you let it set the darker it turns the wood. I got this out of a magazine, but I forget which one. I will post a picture of the samples I made on the projects page, because I can’t figure out how to do it here. The top is white oak and the bottom is red oak. (With and without flash)

-- bbqKing, Lawrenceville

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blackdogwoodshop

60 posts in 215 days


192 days ago

I have used this technique before. The solution reacts with the tannins in the wood to produce the black color. It’s the same reaction that would cause a black stain around a nail if you drove a nail into the piece of oak and left it outside. As such, it only works on woods that contain tannins. Just two tips: You’ll need to seal it with a clearcoat. Also, don’t leave the vinegar and steel wool solution sealed up as it can explode.

-- Daniel, Southern Indiana -- "Have nothing in your home that you do not know to be useful or believe to be beautiful." -- http://blackdogwoodshop.etsy.com

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acanthuscarver

106 posts in 199 days


192 days ago

There are lots of different chemical treatments that have been used throughout the centuries to color wood. Fuming oak in an ammonia steam bath (be careful to do this in a very well ventilated area…the ammonia thing is a little poisonous) was used to “ebonize” the wood over 100 years ago. You can also use a strong tea mixture to color oak, gives it a nutty brown cast. In a recent class I taught on wood finishing basics, I showed the class how simply wetting the surface of a piece of oak and then dropping a nail onto the board will cause discoloration. Your steel wool and white vinegar solution is essentially the same thing. You’re causing the tannic acid to react with the iron. By creating the steel wool solution you’ve figured out a was of dispursing the metal fairly evenly across the surface of the wood. I’d love to see some pictures of your samples and the clocks.

-- Chuck Bender, period furniture maker, www.acanthus.com

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