What is the best way to change table saw blade?

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Forum topic by tool_junkie posted 07-24-2011 03:17 AM 8388 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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289 posts in 1949 days

07-24-2011 03:17 AM

Hello Everyone,

This might just sound out right stupid of me to ask, but I am gonna ask anyways; what is the best way to change the blade on a table saw? I have been using the method outlined in my craftsman table saw manual which call out for using a piece of wood to secure the blade while loosening and tightening the arbor nut, but I never liked this idea. I recently bought the Milescraft “blade changer” and gave it a try for the first time today. (

The blade changer failed miserably! My blade just ate the plastcis bumps that are supposed to stop the blade from rotating while you loosen the arbor nut! It was a frustrating experience.

I need to find a better way to change the blade! Please share if you know of an easy way.


16 replies so far

View Dan's profile


3630 posts in 2300 days

#1 posted 07-24-2011 03:22 AM

I use my wooden push stick to stop the blade when changing it. The nut only needs to be tightened a bit since its reverse thread.

-- Dan - "Collector of Hand Planes"

View Grandpa's profile


3256 posts in 2095 days

#2 posted 07-24-2011 03:26 AM

I have always (because I was taught this way I suppose) used a block of wood, my push stick or whatever and a wrench. I have an old Craftsman saw that came with 2 wrenches. It has a hex or flats behind the blade for one wrench. I was taught to use a wood block. Like mentioned above it doesn’t take much tightening because it should self tighten. Just snug it up good and saw!

View CharlieM1958's profile


16229 posts in 3638 days

#3 posted 07-24-2011 03:51 AM

I don’t know if this is kosher, but it’s how I do it:

My Ridgid TS3660 has two wrenches. One fits on the inside of the blade, and you can gently rotate the shaft until that wrench is resting snugly against front edge the throat opening. Then you take the second wrench, put it on the outside of the blade, and pull toward you till the nut loosens. Reverse the process to reinstall.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Grandpa's profile


3256 posts in 2095 days

#4 posted 07-24-2011 03:54 AM

That is the way this old Craftsman saw works but most saws have just the nut on the arbor and you use one wrench and the wood block holds the blade.

View knotscott's profile


7145 posts in 2795 days

#5 posted 07-24-2011 04:22 AM

I also use my pushstick or whatever scrap I have lying around. I also never tighten the nut very much when I reinstall the blade…just snug it a little.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View lew's profile


11263 posts in 3175 days

#6 posted 07-24-2011 04:23 AM

Wooden push stick or scrap piece of wood.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View rance's profile


4243 posts in 2580 days

#7 posted 07-24-2011 04:51 AM

Two wrenches. What method does your manual suggest?

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 3241 days

#8 posted 07-24-2011 10:20 PM

When I had my Craftsman saw using a block of wood to secure the blade was the technique that I would use to loosen the blade. I tried the Benchdog version of your Milescraft product and did not like it either. Using a block of wood was much easier since there are always some lying around.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2270 days

#9 posted 07-24-2011 11:03 PM

I made a little paddle shaped thngy out of 4/4 wood; shaped a handle on it and it lives in the drawer with the arbor wrench. My saw (long story) didn’t come with a wrench so I bought a stock one and sawed off the end that didn’t apply and dipped it in that Dip’n’Grip stuff.

+1 on the just snug the nut concept.



-- " his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View pintodeluxe's profile


4825 posts in 2233 days

#10 posted 07-24-2011 11:06 PM

Bench Dog Blade Loc. Put it over your blade and the friction keeps it from turning while loosening the nut. Much safer / easier than the old wooden stick method.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Tedstor's profile


1625 posts in 2052 days

#11 posted 07-24-2011 11:11 PM

Whats not to like about the “wood” method?

View DamnYankee's profile


3297 posts in 1982 days

#12 posted 07-24-2011 11:27 PM

I just use the two wrenches that came with my table. One holds the arbor in place while the other loosens/removes the nut. Kinda like on my router.

-- Shameless - Winner of two Stumpy Nubs Awards

View ShaneA's profile


6417 posts in 2018 days

#13 posted 07-24-2011 11:47 PM

Two wrenches for me, seems to work well. Never felt the need to try any other way.

View JimF's profile


143 posts in 2713 days

#14 posted 07-25-2011 03:09 AM

I have a couple of left hand leather gloves (the right ones always wear out first). I just grip the blade with the gloved left hand and the wrench in the ungloved right hand. I feel better about recycling a glove rather than pitching it when the right wears out.

Just thought. does gthis mean my blades are not sharp enough since they don’t cut the leather?

-- Insert clever tag line here

View Dusty56's profile


11804 posts in 3108 days

#15 posted 07-25-2011 04:42 AM

Start off by unplugging your saw…....block of wood and a wrench and you’re done. I’ve also used the “glove” method…...No need to overtighten the nut : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

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