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Delta Scroll Saw Help

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Forum topic by BentheViking posted 07-24-2011 01:21 AM 20863 views 1 time favorited 24 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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BentheViking

1763 posts in 2028 days


07-24-2011 01:21 AM

Topic tags/keywords: scroll saw scrollworking

A year ago I bought a Delta scroll saw (model 40-560 type 2) for $20 on Craigslist. It is at least a little old (90’s maybe?) made of cast iron very heavy. So I bought it without knowing anything about it because it was just such a good deal. I never needed it so I never bothered learning more about it. Until now. I have a project that I am on a tight deadline with and went to go thread up a blade (ok the only thing I did do with it was buy a pack of 5” pin blades). These blades that I got don’t fit in. Not really sure what other types of blades are out there (readily available at HD or Lowe’s preferred), but I need something that will get this saw going. Any other help any of you can provide about this saw would be great (how to change the blade especially, but also any other tricks/quirks to use). If anyone has a manual or something they could send me that would be great too. Thanks in advance

-- It's made of wood. Real sturdy.--Chubbs Peterson


24 replies so far

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WayneC

12642 posts in 3562 days


#1 posted 07-24-2011 01:29 AM

Check this link

http://servicenet.dewalt.com/Products/Detail?productNumber=40-560

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

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BentheViking

1763 posts in 2028 days


#2 posted 07-24-2011 06:08 AM

Thanks a lot Wayne that helped quite a bit. So a general scroll saw question…The blades I have are pin style, but the manual says i need straight blades. Can I cut or grind the pins down? Or do I need to buy a new pack of blades? Thanks

-- It's made of wood. Real sturdy.--Chubbs Peterson

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WayneC

12642 posts in 3562 days


#3 posted 07-24-2011 06:13 AM

I would ask ScrollGirl. I would think you would need to buy the proper blades, but scroll sawing is not my thing.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

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sugarpine

107 posts in 1963 days


#4 posted 07-24-2011 07:43 AM

I’m familiar with the 40-560, having sold therm for a few years. You’ll need 6” pin less blades. I use OLSON PGT (Precision Ground Teeth) Blades. I get them at the local Rockler Woodworking and Hardware. I doubt whether Home Depot or Lowe’s will have them since they are a quality blade. However, any 6” non pin blade will work. The PGT’s are superior to most and last a lot longer. They are available at www.pozsgaidesigns.com and other websites.

Blade changing on that scroll saws fairly easy. The later versions have a lever on the blade holders for quick changing. Earlier models used a either a allen wrench or a special wrench that looked like a old fashioned skate key.

No matter the method of tightening, it’s important that the blade be 90 degrees to the bottom of the holder. It’s not something you have to measure, just eyeball it. If the blade is installed crooked, it will break prematurerly

Google Delta 40-560 and you’ll find a source for a owners manual at www.atomicmall.com

-- sugarpine

View bubinga's profile

bubinga

861 posts in 2132 days


#5 posted 07-24-2011 08:18 AM

sugarpine
This is incorrect, You’ll need 6” pin less blades.

That saw takes standard 5” flat plane end blades
You should be able to get the pins, out of the pin end blades, you have, and use them just fine , I have done it before, using a couple pairs of pliers
They have 5” plane end blades at HD
You will break some blades ,while cutting, but let the saw do the cutting

-- E J ------- Always Keep a Firm Grip on Your Tool

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sugarpine

107 posts in 1963 days


#6 posted 07-24-2011 05:59 PM

My apologies, I meant to say 5”.
Nonetheless, removing the pins will work but the selection of blade sizes in pinned blades is terrible. Nothing really good for tight radius cutting. Nothing beats a good blade that will corner well and leave an edge that needs no sanding.

Happy scroll sawing.

-- sugarpine

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HorizontalMike

7152 posts in 2378 days


#7 posted 07-24-2011 07:38 PM

FYI, item 119, #1343648 BLADE WRENCH is pretty much required in that it keeps you from torquing the blade as you tighten lower clamp. What it does is hold the clamping mechanism vertical while you tighten. Don’t know if that was included in your CL score. If it wasn’t pick one up or insert a small allen wrench through the hole adjacent to the lower clamp and then tighten with the other allen wrench.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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bubinga

861 posts in 2132 days


#8 posted 07-26-2011 07:57 AM

I agree, removing the pins will work but the selection of blade sizes in pinned blades is terrible

-- E J ------- Always Keep a Firm Grip on Your Tool

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BentheViking

1763 posts in 2028 days


#9 posted 08-01-2011 03:51 AM

I tried playing around with this thing again today. I had printed out the instruction manual and followed it and got the blade installed. I started using it and the it seems like the two arms are moving at different speeds or something. Everything works fine for a few pumps and then it all bends out of place and pops out of the two blade holding clamps. I tried adjusting tensions and couldn’t really get it to work much better. I was just trying to cut 3/8” and 3/4” pine. I ended up destroying 3 blades and figured before destroying the whole pack I’d ask LJs any advice. I am using Skil 15 TPI pin blades (with the pin removed).

-- It's made of wood. Real sturdy.--Chubbs Peterson

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sugarpine

107 posts in 1963 days


#10 posted 08-01-2011 05:17 AM

Your symptoms puzzle me because it’s impossible for the top arm to be moving at a different speed. The bottom arm is driven by the motor. The only time the top arm can move is when the bade is installed thereby connecting the top and bottom arms. I’d call Delta direct and speak to a service technician. Be aware that Delta no longer makes this scroll saw so it’s imperative that you speak with somebody that’s serviced your model.

One final thought: nearly every scroll saw I’ve ever owned requires that the tension be removed or adjusted to provide no tension when installing a blade. This is accomplished by turning a tension knob, sometimes in the back, other times on the front of the upper arm. Newer saws have a lever to remove tension, usually near the front on the upper arm.

Good luck

-- sugarpine

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BentheViking

1763 posts in 2028 days


#11 posted 08-01-2011 05:29 AM

I didn’t actually think that the arms are moving at different speeds, I was just saying that what seems like is going on would be similar to a problem if the arms are operating independently. I don’t know if the blade is getting caught up on the wood or the throat plate or what but the blade is just bending.

When changing the blade I have loosened the tension mechanism (in this case a screw to change the tension and an arm to set or release tension on the blade.

-- It's made of wood. Real sturdy.--Chubbs Peterson

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ajosephg

1878 posts in 3025 days


#12 posted 08-01-2011 01:12 PM

Make sure you have enough tension on the blade, and make sure that you are not inadvertently pushing the wood sidewise. Also, make sure the foot is holding the board securely against the table, and finally don’t force the cut, go slow, 3/4 inch wood is a big mouth full for a scroll saw.

And finally, buy some quality blades. I don’t think Skill qualifies.

-- Joe

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BentheViking

1763 posts in 2028 days


#13 posted 08-03-2011 01:36 AM

is there such thing as too much tension? I hadn’t though about the foot just assuming it was just kind of there and forgetting that it probably had a function.

Would Bosch qualify as quality blades? I need something quick to get this project done so whatever I get will have to be available from HD or Lowes. Since Lowe’s only has Bosch and Skil and I think that Home Depot has Ryobi, so I am going to have to hope Bosch blades are at least good enough.

I have used scroll saws many times before, but this is the first one I’ve owned and really don’t know much about setting them up for initial use. I am just hoping that we are dealing with an issue of operator error and not something wrong with the saw. I only spent $20 on it, but know that it should be a much more valuable piece of equipment want to still have gotten a good deal.

-- It's made of wood. Real sturdy.--Chubbs Peterson

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sugarpine

107 posts in 1963 days


#14 posted 08-03-2011 03:48 PM

In my experience, the only problem that will occur with too much tension is that the blade will pop out of either the top or the bottom holder. When the blade is properly tensioned it should have very little movement to the rear (less then 1/8”) when pushed from the front with the saw turned off. If you pluck the blade like a guitar string it should sound like a high C.

-- sugarpine

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sugarpine

107 posts in 1963 days


#15 posted 08-05-2011 04:26 PM

If your Delta scroll saw issue still persists, try asking for help on www.scrollsawer.com. They have a wealth of scroll saw folks with lots of knowledge and experience on all scroll saw makes and models. I went there a few weeks ago and got some great help with a pattern search.

-- sugarpine

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