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Danish Oil not drying.

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Forum topic by doninvegas posted 672 days ago 1763 views 0 times favorited 23 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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doninvegas

311 posts in 1074 days


672 days ago

I’m refinishing an end table and I matched the color by using golden oak Danish oil. It has been sitting for 24 hours and the oil is still not dry. I’ve never run into this before. Is it because I sealed the wood with shellac sanding sealer? If that’s the case do I just leave it alone?

-- "Courage is being scared to death -- but saddling up anyway."




23 replies so far

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Loren

4873 posts in 1814 days


#1 posted 672 days ago

Well, rub off the excess as directed.

Most of the “danish oil” finishes are varnish mixtures that cure
by oxidation. I think I’ve only ever used them on unsealed wood
myself, but I expect the presence of shellac under the oil
would slow curing.

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CharlieM1958

14847 posts in 2385 days


#2 posted 672 days ago

I suspect that is the problem. I’ve never tried to use Danish oil on wood that was sealed in any way.

If you are satisfied with the way it looks, I would just give it more time. Eventually it will cure.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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Greg The Cajun Box Sculptor

3765 posts in 1475 days


#3 posted 672 days ago

if the wood is sealed the danish oil cannot soak into the pores of the wood.

-- Every step of any project should be considered your masterpiece if you want the finished product to reflect the quality of your work. http://www.FineArtBoxes.com

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doninvegas

311 posts in 1074 days


#4 posted 672 days ago

Hey Charlie, I never used Danish oil on sealed wood either. But the combination on the shellac and golden oak oil was a perfect color match. Maybe I should have done the oil first then the shellac.

-- "Courage is being scared to death -- but saddling up anyway."

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HoBoMoNK

1381 posts in 2294 days


#5 posted 672 days ago

Danish Oil Demystified.

-- 温故知新

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doninvegas

311 posts in 1074 days


#6 posted 672 days ago

Interesting. BUT IT”S STILL NOT DRY:(
It’s getting there though. :)

-- "Courage is being scared to death -- but saddling up anyway."

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HoBoMoNK

1381 posts in 2294 days


#7 posted 672 days ago

You didn’t say which brand of Danish Oil – they are not all alike.
Some brands are designed to dry very slowly and are not meant to build a top coat.

-- 温故知新

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doninvegas

311 posts in 1074 days


#8 posted 672 days ago

Watco. I’ve used this brand for a long time and like it. I wasn’t trying to use it as a top coat. I used it this time and always just to add color. I guess using the shellac as the sealer coat was the wrong way to go. Oh well, live and learn.
Thanks,

-- "Courage is being scared to death -- but saddling up anyway."

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peteg

2261 posts in 989 days


#9 posted 672 days ago

I have used it quite a bit on turnings, most turners I know will apply the oil and then wipe of fairly quickly for the very reason you are experiencing. If it is still wet you can wipe it back with a rag dampened with Meths, I use meths to thin Danish for most first coats, you can go about 20% meth to thin. The shellac would have sealed up the end grains well & truly & should stop any blotchy oil take ups.
Good luck

-- Pete G: If you always do what you always did you'll always get what you always got

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rusty2010

124 posts in 724 days


#10 posted 672 days ago

Danish oil is not meant to be applied over shellac. The base products do not adhere to each other. Remove the oil. If you need to change the color of shellac, try adding Transtint dyes. Work your way into the color slowly.

-- check, recheck then check again

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Steven H

1105 posts in 1227 days


#11 posted 672 days ago

Did you wipe the excess off?

-- shdesign3.com

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

10505 posts in 1855 days


#12 posted 672 days ago

What did the directions on the can say regarding application of the product ?
If I remember correctly , the last time I used danish Oil , it was to be applied to “clean, bare, wood ”.
“Flood the surface and allow to soak in for X amount of time and repeat as needed, wiping off any excess oil that doesn’t absorb into the wood”.
I believe they stated that the finish was “in the wood” as opposed to “on top of the wood”.
I would have put the Shellac on after the oil had dried completely for a few days.
By posting your problem , I’m sure that you’ve helped a lot of others to avoid this issue : )
Thank you .

-- When did quiet and quite become the same word ? I'm guessing about the same time as your and you're did.

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doninvegas

311 posts in 1074 days


#13 posted 669 days ago

Ok everyone, first I would like to thank everybody that replied and gave me advice. Not only on this topic but on the “Orange Peel” post as well.
That darn table is done. It came out quit well. Lessons learned:
1. Do not put Danish oil on top of shellac. I didn’t think this would be a problem because you seal wood with shellac to control blotching before you stain. Obviously stain and Danish oil are not the same.
2. Don’t rush the finish. I have a huge problem with patience. The first coat of water based poly I put on a little dry to raise the grain. I sanded it back with 320 grit paper and applied the second coat wet. I let it dry for about 2 hours. It being 98 degrees and 7% humidity I thought that would be sufficient. It wasn’t. The third coat orange peeled something offal.
So I striped the whole thing down to bare wood, colored it to match the other pieces and then top coated it with 4 coats of lacquer.
Thanks again.

-- "Courage is being scared to death -- but saddling up anyway."

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doninvegas

311 posts in 1074 days


#14 posted 669 days ago

Oh, one more thing. Please remind me to NEVER offer to refinish a piece of furniture again,EVER. I’m not equiped for it and there is no money in it.

-- "Courage is being scared to death -- but saddling up anyway."

View rusty2010's profile

rusty2010

124 posts in 724 days


#15 posted 669 days ago

Doninvegas,, never offer to refinish a piece of furniture again,,

-- check, recheck then check again

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