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Grizzly G1538 16" Band Saw

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Forum topic by Dusty56 posted 07-17-2011 04:33 PM 6937 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Dusty56

11819 posts in 3767 days


07-17-2011 04:33 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question bandsaw

Hello LJs , Is there anyone out there that has this OLD band saw ?
It has a 3 step pulley for various blade speeds . However , I am only able to fit the belt to two of them which seem to rotate much too fast for sawing wood. The belt is much too short to go onto the third step. Do I need to purchase a new belt in order to use this one speed or is there an adjustment that I missed somewhere ?
I can’t get the motor to go up any higher as the mounting bracket hits against the bottom of the stand that it is on.I even tried repositioning the motor on its bracket…no better .
The online owners manual doesn’t have any info about changing the belts , but does indicate the speeds.
There are two belts on it , which I tried reversing , with no luck. At its present speed , there seems to be excess vibration coming from the lower wheel. The motor runs smooth as can be , so I don’t know if the old belts have developed a “set” from sitting around for a couple years (per previous owner) or if the vibration is coming from the wheel itself. It also needs new tires as they have a few small cracks in them and one of the blade guide holders (white metal) is also broken on one side. Has anyone upgraded their guide assemblies , and if so , what did you use ? The factory guide blocks are metal(steel or cast iron?) ...bottom ones are square and the top set is round.
Leave it to Grizzly !! LOL

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!


12 replies so far

View moonls's profile

moonls

412 posts in 3066 days


#1 posted 07-17-2011 06:20 PM

I don’t know about the bandsaw itself but Carter sells the guide replacement sets for many bandsaws. They also sell the “Stabilizer” guide for scrolling and other work requiring sharp turns (for 1/8” to 3/16” blade sizes). I’m quite happy with mine that I bought. You can check it out on the Carter website. Did you visit their booth when you came to the woodworking show in Springfield last January?

-- Lorna, Cape Cod

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Dusty56

11819 posts in 3767 days


#2 posted 07-17-2011 06:59 PM

Hi Lorna , yes , Alex sold me on the Carter Stabilizer kit and a new blade to go with it, which I bought for my JET 14” BS. I just picked this one up from Craigslist last week .
Have a great day , my friend : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

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superstretch

1531 posts in 2773 days


#3 posted 09-13-2011 04:22 PM

I just picked up one of these last night for $250. Very little vibration, clean as a whistle, and perfect tires. All I’m missing is a decent blade (stock one still on there?) and the taper pin for the table alignment (where the blade slot is)

-- Dan, Rochester, NY

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Dusty56

11819 posts in 3767 days


#4 posted 09-13-2011 10:31 PM

I just picked up some new Olson blades on sale at Woodcraft….I’ve had ZERO problems with this brand to date , unlike the Timberwolves that I had….all three broke…..two at the factory welds : (

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

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superstretch

1531 posts in 2773 days


#5 posted 09-13-2011 10:33 PM

I’m pretty convinced I’ll get a Wood Slicer.. Just have to decide between 3/4” and 1/2”. Any suggestions?

-- Dan, Rochester, NY

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Dusty56

11819 posts in 3767 days


#6 posted 09-13-2011 11:02 PM

You should have no problems using a 3/4” on that machine …the one I had came with a full 1 inch blade !
I’ve only heard good news about the Woodslicer , but no personal experience with one .

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View rodneyh's profile

rodneyh

147 posts in 2744 days


#7 posted 11-15-2011 05:31 PM

It takes a different belt for the 3rd speed. Last page of manual.

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g1538_m.pdf

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11819 posts in 3767 days


#8 posted 11-16-2011 01:06 AM

Thanks for your input …I had the original owners manual for the saw and that page wasn’t in it.
I’ve sold the saw since posting this over 120 days ago : )
Got rid of the vibration by using a link belt from Harbor Freight !!

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View Sawdust11's profile

Sawdust11

2 posts in 47 days


#9 posted 07-02-2018 02:03 AM

I have a grizzly 16 band saw the guide has plastic blocks. Where can I get upper and lower bearing to replace the blocks.. Thnx…

-- Daniel Hemdrrson

View AHuxley's profile

AHuxley

725 posts in 3401 days


#10 posted 07-02-2018 03:19 AM

Car


I have a grizzly 16 band saw the guide has plastic blocks. Where can I get upper and lower bearing to replace the blocks.. Thnx…

- Sawdust11

Carter makes replacement guides for that saw but they run about $200 for their 2300 series guides. YOu might check with Space Age Ceramics to see if they have ceramic blocks to replace the plastic ones, block guides have some advantages over bearing guides (especially small bearings) and are cheaper.

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Sawdust11

2 posts in 47 days


#11 posted 07-03-2018 01:31 AM

Thnx man. I just thought bearings we’re better

-- Daniel Hemdrrson

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AHuxley

725 posts in 3401 days


#12 posted 07-03-2018 02:28 AM



Thnx man. I just thought bearings we re better

- Sawdust11

First, a tome could be written on bandsaw guides but I will keep it (somewhat brief).

There are basically two forms of bandsaw guides and one hybrid. You have bearing guides and block guides w/bearings in the thrust position and the full block guides almost always seen with the wear surface in ceramic.

IMO the worst of all of these are the small bearing guides that essentially use skateboard/roller blade bearings. Their point of contact is farther from the work surface than guide blocks and while they reduce friction by some small degree the heat from friction using proper materials for the blocks is minimal compared to the heat created by the friction cutting the wood. Steel and ceramic make good guide blocks when using 1/4” and larger blades because there is little chance of the guide touching the teeth when properly set up and proper tension is used. Oily hardwood (or oil soaked hardwood) and phenolic blocks are good for smaller blades. Unreinforced plastic is a poor choice as it wears quickly. Solid guide blocks are also good for cleaning the blade of resin and gunk which extends blade life because it runs cooler.

Why do we see lots of small bearing guides on saws? People wanted “better” and it increased the companies margins to include the more complex “better” solution. Also the many testimonials of how great the new Carter conversion is on someones saw, on top of confirmation bias we also have the fact people have to do a full tuneup to the saw guides when putting new ones on…

My issues with bearing guides don’t extend to the quality guides found on many Euro saws they have hardened wear surfaces, sealed bearings and have a much larger contact patch that is closer to the work and have thrust bearings that are perpendicular to blade travel providing contact over a larger area and again closer to the work.

Ceramic guides like from Felder and Laguna are excellent also with a solid ceramic thrust “bearing” these can be approximated with the Space Age Ceramic kits and in most cases are very inexpensive.

Take a look at industrial bandsaws and the vast majority of them will have solid metal side guide blocks and perpendicular thrust bearings that are sealed and have hardened contact edges. These are usually Wright, Progress or the top end Micro Precision (CP) guides from Carter.

I wouldn’t spend a lot of money on that saw, just get you some Lignum Vitae or soak some hard maple in oil and make you some new side guides or get the Space Age conversion if they make it for that saw. Better guides for less money.

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