| Forum topic by GregInMaryland | posted 709 days ago | 721 views | 0 times favorited | 11 replies | ![]() |
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709 days ago |
Topic tags/keywords: handplane restoration Hi I am in the middle of restoring a Stanley number 3 and a number 4. Do most folks flatten the sole and then reapply the jappaning (paint) or paint and then flatten the sole? Also, I have read that you should flatten the sole with the frog, blade, chipbreaker and cap installed. Is there any merit to this? Thanks. -- "I have found that hand tools are the best choice when I want to make mistakes at a slower rate of speed." Unknown |
11 replies so far
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#1 posted 709 days ago |
As a user, I never repaint. If I wanted to paint, it would be the last thing done to the plane. Never paint areas where the frog sits, or the blade. And, you should definitely flatten the bottom with the blade, cap iron, and lever cap in place—but with the blade fully retracted. |
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#2 posted 709 days ago |
Yes to flattening with everything assembled. I paint last, although I can’t think of a reason why you couldn’t paint first, flatten after. -- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood" |
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#3 posted 709 days ago |
Agree. Flatten frog and everything assembled. I am also not a fan of repainting/japanning planes… -- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov |
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#4 posted 708 days ago |
I also do not re-paint antique tools. I occasionally touch up small paint chipped areas using a black magic marker for appearance sake. James |
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#5 posted 708 days ago |
Agree with all above. Flatten the sole with the plane setup like it’s ready to cut, just with the blade withdrawn. That’ll make the theoretical flatness functional flatness. I paint planes, but I probably shouldn’t. All mine are users and sometimes I like them better reJapanned; sometimes not. -- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog |
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#6 posted 708 days ago |
If the plane’s are common 3 and 4, and the japanning is bad, I don’t see a problem painting. I typically paint first, but as charlie said, there’s not a reason behind it. I wouldn’t paint a type 1 or 2. I agree with flatten with everything together. -- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m) |
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#7 posted 708 days ago |
You can paint before or after. Its up to your preferance. I’ve done both. It all depends. I agree with everyone else. Flatten fully assembled with blade retracted. |
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#8 posted 708 days ago |
Timely advice and all agree, too. Great question. -- If you're going to stir the pot, think BIG spoon or SMALL boat paddle. David Grimes, Georgia |
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#9 posted 707 days ago |
Thanks guys. I would say that there was less than 40% of the japanning left after the electrolysis bath, so I decided to take it all off and paint it hot pink. It takes a strong man to paint his tool hot pink. These are intended to be worker bees in my shop and restoration teaching aids, so I wanted to break them down completely and start all over. Cheers -- "I have found that hand tools are the best choice when I want to make mistakes at a slower rate of speed." Unknown |
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#10 posted 707 days ago |
So who did you get to paint it, then… lol j/k I’m just sayin’ I was thinking that more of a khaki / mauve camo might inspire a more manly motiff… ;=) -- If you're going to stir the pot, think BIG spoon or SMALL boat paddle. David Grimes, Georgia |
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#11 posted 707 days ago |
Blue painter’s tape and a razor blade are great for masking off areas NOT to be painted, as listed above. FWIW, I peel the tape after spraying but BEFORE it dries. -- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..." |
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