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Making veneer with a bandsaw issues

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Forum topic by Ken_W posted 07-22-2018 05:43 PM 1317 views 1 time favorited 26 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Ken_W

7 posts in 662 days


07-22-2018 05:43 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw veneer

Basic question, what am I doing wrong?

Im trying to cut some 7-1/2” by 22” pieces of 3/16” veneer from a ~36’ long X 7-1/2” wide piece of 3/4” birch and not having much luck. I have a 3HP 14” Laguna Bandsaw with a drift master fence. I first tried a 1” resaw king blade that I though would work well and then tried 1/2 14 TPI blade which I didn’t think was the right blade for the job but tried it any way. In both cases I set the fence for drift. The resaw king had a much greater drift angle than the 1/2” blade. I set the fence about 3/16” from the blade and went at it. The 1” resew king looked fine for maybe the first 12” and then the blade seemed to pull the wood away from the fence despite having a stop perched on the indeed side almost all the way to the blade to prevent that happening (basically it over powered the fingers on a magnetic stop I had set). The 1/2” blade was did OK on some 3-1/2”wide wood that I experimented on but when I went to the 7-1/2 birch the blade just seemed to squirrel around.

I just got the bandsaw a few months ago and have used it for cutting a few things but not a lot of experience with it. This is the most challenging cut Ive tried to do with it. As I said I don’t think the 1/2” 14TPI blade was the right blade, but I think the resew kind should have worked fine.

What am i missing?


26 replies so far

View Gerald Thompson's profile

Gerald Thompson

1119 posts in 2436 days


#1 posted 07-22-2018 05:59 PM

Enter Alex Snodgrass on Youtube it is a great tutorial.

-- Jerry

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

1506 posts in 805 days


#2 posted 07-22-2018 07:07 PM

Fellow Laguna 14 user here. Bought in December. Mine has had zero drift right out of the box with the Laguna fence.

Yes. The RK should have worked fine. Are you sure the 14” saw will accommodate a 1” blade?

1. I use a 3/4” resaw king for resawing but I’ve used the Laguna 1/2” for softer woods and it works fine too but it isn’t 14TPI. If you are using a 1” blade try adjusting the tracking to fix the drift. 1” is pretty wide for that saw.
2. Alex Snodgrass
3. I like to resaw with the veneer on the outside, not the inside using a jig like this


4. How about your tensioning? Is there a setting on the gauge for a 1” blade? This screen shot is from the Laguna video from my 1412.

Also, here are the specs for the 14BX which says max blade width is 3/4”

I’ve been able to resaw everything from pine to cocobolo to 1/16th” with no issues. Like Gerald said, first do the full Snodgrass setup from start to finish.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

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Aj2

1879 posts in 2000 days


#3 posted 07-22-2018 07:15 PM

Birch can be a very difficult wood to resaw because it distorts so quickly as it’s cut. What does the wood look like after it’s cut is it warped twisted or cupped.

-- Aj

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Ken_W

7 posts in 662 days


#4 posted 07-22-2018 07:45 PM

My saw is actually the 14SUV so its supposed to be able to handle a 1 blade. As for tensioning the gauge isn’t as informative as yours is so I used the mild pressure on the blade below the upper wheel distorts the blade about 1/4”. The wood was fine no distortion or twisting. The problem was that I was shooting for veneer of 1/8”-3/16”, it started out fine but about 12” it started thinning out the veneer quickly and appeared to be pulling the wood away from the fence. I was making the veneer between the fence and the blade. My plan was to cut a piece of veneer, take the original piece of birch over the jointer and then rinse and repeat.

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Andybb

1506 posts in 805 days


#5 posted 07-22-2018 08:03 PM

I hate when that happens. BS’s are tricky machines to set up right. Maybe a little more tension? Maybe cut the veneer on the outside holding the stock firmly against the fence? Are your guides adjusted properly? That blade properly tensioned should not deflect if the guides are adjusted properly. I’ve never had much luck with the various tensioning methods like the flutter test and the deflect method. Very subjective (or is that objective??). Again, definitely do the Snodgrass setup first if you haven’t already. I’d suggest using scrap to get it set up first.

That blade should leave you a slice that only needs mild sanding but the jointer works too.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

2636 posts in 1589 days


#6 posted 07-22-2018 11:08 PM

Here's one opinion on what causes this and bandsaw drift. Worth a look. And a cool jig by the way.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

1506 posts in 805 days


#7 posted 07-23-2018 12:45 AM

Another way to set drift angle here. Another way to set tension at 3:20.

Lazyman’s video above might explain your issue so again I’d suggest cutting the veneer to the outside.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View BobAnderton's profile

BobAnderton

283 posts in 2992 days


#8 posted 07-23-2018 03:50 AM

Note the setup Andy shows in the first picture with the bearing forward of and on the right side of the blade and the fence on the left. Have the veneer you are cutting come off the right side of the blade. That’s how I do it too. Something about stresses in the wood that are released in the cut will result in deflecting the veneer coming off but the source stock will be able to be kept flat against the fence and it won’t affect your cut. After the cut just put the source stock between the fence and the bearing and slide the fence to the right until it contacts the bearing and lock the fence and you’re ready to go again. Keeps your jointed face against the fence and undamaged.


-- Bob Anderton - Austin, TX - Nova 3000 lathe, Alaskan Mark III mill, Husqavarna Saw

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

1506 posts in 805 days


#9 posted 07-23-2018 05:07 PM

Have the veneer you are cutting come off the right side of the blade. That s how I do it too. Something about stresses in the wood that are released in the cut will result in deflecting the veneer coming off but the source stock will be able to be kept flat against the fence and it won t affect your cut. After the cut just put the source stock between the fence and the bearing and slide the fence to the right until it contacts the bearing and lock the fence and you re ready to go again. Keeps your jointed face against the fence and undamaged.
- BobAnderton

+1 Explained much better than I did.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View AHuxley's profile

AHuxley

854 posts in 3523 days


#10 posted 07-24-2018 02:49 AM

While it could be a number of things or a combination of two or more things low tension is likely to be at least a significant part of the problem. The SUV can’t properly tension a 1” carbide blade, even a thin gauge one like the RK. The bandsaw spec that shows say a max 1” blade is not what the saw will tension but what width blade the saw and guides will physically accommodate. While it may be counter intuitive the issue is all blades of the same width don’t need the same spring pressure nor the same strain. For example a 1” thin gauge carbon blade will need less than 50% of the spring pressure of a thick gauge 1” carbide blade. On a similar note bandsaw tension gauges (which reflect spring pressure) are only useful as a relative reference so slapping on a 1/2” blade and cranking the tension to 1/2” on the scale does not mean the tension is correct for that particular blade. In many scenarios even being 50% or more off of the ideal tension for a particular blade is a non-issue if the cut doesn’t require a lot of beam strength. Tall resawing requires as much beam strength as a saw/blade combination can muster.

My suggestion is crank the tension up to the saws max (it will still be low for the 1” RK which likes 28-30k psi) however do NOT fully compress the spring, just get close. Then make sure you have your ceramic blocks all just kissing the surface of the blade (the proper way to run these guides). If you still see deflection (different disease from drift but presents the same symptom) reduce your feedrate and see if that helps. Keep in mind on a small saw like the SUV you will never have the beam strength for a fast feedrate and it needs more help from the guides than a larger/heavier saw. The SUV is a good saw for its size but you can’t expect it to punch too far above its class.

BTW since he is using a Driftmaster fence I assume he IS cutting the veneer to the right side of the blade, that is how that fence is designed to work. On my hand fed setup I cut with the veneer to the right side using a DM fence, on my power fed rig I cut with the veneer to the left, never really seen a difference however the power fed veneer is smoother for obvious reasons.

View Andybb's profile

Andybb

1506 posts in 805 days


#11 posted 07-24-2018 05:09 AM

Great points AHuxley.

Maybe you need to go down to a 3/4” RK. The drift issue aside there is no reason why my smaller 1412 3/4hp can cut thin veneer through bubinga, cocoblo etc like butter and your SUV can’t.

But….since everything influences everything else on a bandsaw you should zero out the drift and increase the tension and try cutting on the outside as a start. Maybe a 3/4” blade will eliminate the drift. You’d have more control over where it rides on the tires. Laguna says to center the blade not the teeth on the wheel.

-- Andy - Seattle USA

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

2636 posts in 1589 days


#12 posted 07-24-2018 02:21 PM

One more thought… A particularly dirty or dull blade can cause problems as well. I was having problems with my 3/4” blade after cutting a particularly resinous wood and after cleaning it using some simple green, it cut like new again.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View Ken_W's profile

Ken_W

7 posts in 662 days


#13 posted 07-25-2018 05:08 AM

Sorry everyone, I had to go out of town for work for a couple of days. I think I might have a combination of things going on here.

(1) Ive got a feeling that the 1” RK may be too big and Im not getting enough tension. It does fit nicely on the wheels but I can barely tension it up per the snodgress method. Im going to give it one more try though.
(2) try and cut on veneer between the fence and the blade on the LH side of the blade. IM going to go get that table saw bearing that Andybb has, Rockler has it for $35 and Im going to try it on the RH side as some people have suggested.
(3) I thought I did the drift set properly, I did it by marking a 6” straight line on squared up block of wood cutting it as close to the line as I could then setting the fence angle to the angle the block of wood forms. Ill try the snodgras method with a straight edge up against the blade and see how that goes..

Ive got a 12” piece of pine that was a shelf in the garage square up and give the cut a try before I give up on the 1” blade or use some good wood. Im finding that resawing on a bandsaw is quite bit more finicky than I thought.

Thanks for the help, and Ill report back.

View AHuxley's profile

AHuxley

854 posts in 3523 days


#14 posted 07-25-2018 06:07 AM


(1) Ive got a feeling that the 1” RK may be too big and Im not getting enough tension. It does fit nicely on the wheels but I can barely tension it up per the snodgress method.

Be aware the Snodgrass “tap” method will result in a very low tension for a carbide blade, it is OK for a carbon blade. This is where I usually mention a tension gauge but most people aren’t going to spend 200-300 bucks on one, and yes I know Duginske’s opinion on bandsaw gauges. In any event you aren’t after the last bit of quality currently, you are just chasing a straight cut so the SUV should still be able to get you there at max tension.

One thing to try is if the blade keeps deflecting try slowing your feedrate WAY down, if the cut’s straightness does not improve then tension is much less likely to be an issue.

View BroncoBrian's profile

BroncoBrian

847 posts in 2160 days


#15 posted 07-25-2018 03:59 PM

AHux crushed it!

I was about to say the saw makes no difference. But it does in this case. You should try a 3/4 blade. I buy Lennox blades from somewhere in Ohio (don’t remember). They make the RK or Timberwolf (also don’t remember) and are less expensive than getting the same blade packaged in the retail shops.

Anyhow, a deeper blade is not always better. I was able to resaw 1/8 easily with a 1/2 blade not designed for resaw at all. That was 7” Mahagony. I think the tension is 95% of the issue.

-- A severed foot is the ultimate stocking stuffer.

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