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| Forum topic by stcin | posted 679 days ago | 3543 views | 0 times favorited | 17 replies | ![]() |
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679 days ago |
Topic tags/keywords: question Hello all,
thanks all |
17 replies so far
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#1 posted 679 days ago |
1) I would evaluate an ovelay panel On the other hand you can remove the bottum panel easy enough than install a stop of sorts, install panel then use applied mollding on both sides. |
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#2 posted 679 days ago |
Unless it was assembled with hyde glue, which is unlikely unless it is an antique, you are probably going to have a difficult time getting it apart. The old hyde glue would come apart with heat and steam, but newer glues will not. If the joints are loose however, you can tap the apart with a mallet and block, or even with a clamp as you suggested. Don’t be suprised if the wood spinters and breaks within the joints. Be very gentle. -- She thought I hung the moon--now she just thinks I did it wrong |
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#3 posted 679 days ago |
Slice it at the rail joints with a bandsaw, remove and replace your panel and put it back together with floating tenons or thick dowels. |
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#4 posted 679 days ago |
if the door has blind mortise and tenon joints then it probably has internal wedges as well…which means it won’t come apart….look under the bottom rail for any telltale signs …there may be signs where it has been haunched….if so then slice the bottom rail out hopefully the panel is floating. you will most likely have to replace the bottom rail as well because it won’t pull up parallel again.will also mean cleaning out the old mortise joint so you can slide in a new rail. then just glue in a filler block on the bottom of the stile sand it up it it will be as good as new -- just get stuck in and have a go!!! |
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#5 posted 679 days ago |
Sometimes when dip stripping doors the joints can become loosened during the stripping process. First check and see if any are loose and need to be re-glued. Chances are the joints were done with cope a stick joinery and dowels. Here are some steps you can take to help loosen glue joints so they can be re-glued. This comes from wood central: PVA glues like Titebond and Elmer’s are very difficult to remove. If you suspect that one of these glues was used, wetting the joint in hot vinegar loosens the joint enough to wiggle it apart. Unlike hide glue, PVA glue does not re-bond to itself so you must scrape off the old glue to bare wood. If you are gluing a broken piece of wood with irregular edges, soak the glue with hot vinegar and remove it with a brass bristle brush. If you’re not sure which glue was used you can do a simple test. Place a drop of hot water on the glue and wait several minutes. Hide glue will become sticky and PVA glues will turn white. Other glues you may encounter are epoxy, urea-resin and super glue. All of these glues should be treated the same as PVA in that they are non-reversible. However, none of them can be softened to aid in disassembly. Since most of these glues are brittle, a sharp blow with a hammer usually breaks the glue line. I would try to remove one of the stiles very carefully, replace the panel and glue it back together. -- I don't make mistakes, I have great learning lessons, Greg |
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#6 posted 678 days ago |
I took an old door apart. I removed the glass then started pushing it apart with clamps. It had hand cut dowels in it. I took it all apart and replaced some broken dowels. I just took my time and made spreader clamps to open it up. |
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#7 posted 678 days ago |
Unless you have a really special door, it probably won’t come apart without a lot of aggravation. Most doors are built to go together but not be taken apart. Panels are usually done the same way as cabinet doors – the panel sits in dados in the rails and stiles. If the only problem is the panel, you can probably use a router to cut away one side of the rail and stile dados that hold it in place. Pop out the bad panel and install a new one. Replace what you cut away with some new molding. -- Adversity doesn't build character...................it reveals it. |
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#8 posted 670 days ago |
What sawkerf says. Rout out the cope and bead on one side, drop new panel in and trim out with new sticking stops. |
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#9 posted 669 days ago |
Thanks everyone – I have decided to “Rout out one side, drop new panel in and trim out with new stops”. It sounds like a plan to me. Thanks for the help. |
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#10 posted 669 days ago |
That’s just how I’d do it, stcin. But make sure you are routing out the same side of the door that the glass bead is on in the glass opening. -- "You can lead a politician to water, but you can't make him think." Kinky Friedman |
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#11 posted 669 days ago |
Excellent heads up tbone – Thanks. I might have thought that through and I might not have – Now it will be on my mind- Good Help! |
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#12 posted 661 days ago |
As Sawkerf, tblank and tbone suggested I did use a router to cut out the old panel. Using 1/8 birch ply with some figure on one side I glued two 1/8” panels back to back so figure would show on both sides of the door. Then made trim to retain the panel and reinstalled everything. You guys were a big help. Thank you. |
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#13 posted 661 days ago |
I have a vintage door that is very loose- the whole panel is beveled glass. Well, I saved that door for many years hoping I could do something with it- like fix it or something. Well,,, when David (Patron) was here- he said to throw the door away. I haven’t done it yet- but I am going to throw the glass away and probably keep the wood. Don’t you love a compromise? -- Homer : "Oh, and how is education supposed to make me feel smarter? Besides, every time I learn something new, it pushes some old stuff out of my brain." |
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#14 posted 661 days ago |
Stcin, Well done. Good idea with going back to back. Did you contact cement the two together? Replacing the panel worked for me once doing a dog door repair. A month from now no one could ever tell. |
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#15 posted 661 days ago |
I guess just tackle the rail joints, but dpepends.Anyway thanks to Gregn.It gives me idea on how to settle a problem my friends had. Its quite hard to deal with well stick glue at the doors. |
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