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Sharpening with a bench grinder

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Forum topic by curliejones posted 07-17-2018 12:02 PM 577 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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curliejones

179 posts in 2410 days


07-17-2018 12:02 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bench grinder chisels hand tools sharpening

A two/three part ??
I’ve read about one technique for sharpening shop tools where the guy recommended starting and stopping his bench grinder to sharpen chisels, etc. It lets him use his single speed grinder and catch the steel at diminishing speeds. I don’t do a lot of sharpening and I wonder if this start and stop technique is hard on a good motor or just puts wear on the on-off switch?
If indeed it is not that bad for the motor, could / should a momentary foot switch be used and leave the grinder switch in the “on” position? As long as the amp rating is high enough for the switch, would a Big Foot switch for trolling motors work OK? A 15A rating on a switch and a grinder that is rated at 5A , for example?

-- Like Guy Clark sez - "Sometimes I use my head, Sometimes I get a bigger hammer"


9 replies so far

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Bill White

5069 posts in 4104 days


#1 posted 07-17-2018 12:28 PM

NNNOOO!!! on the trolling motor!!!! Different animal for a different purpose. If you must pursue the start/stop process (which I don’t value), get a momentary foot switch designed for the proper AC induction motor.
I use one on my router table, but that’s a totally different story.

-- bill@magraphics.us

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TheFridge

10283 posts in 1630 days


#2 posted 07-17-2018 11:23 PM

Not good for the motor. Once or twice is one thing. More than that is another.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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Mr_Pink

131 posts in 515 days


#3 posted 07-17-2018 11:55 PM

I don’t know about the effects on the motor, but this would certainly overcomplicate the process of grinding.

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theart

49 posts in 698 days


#4 posted 07-18-2018 12:57 PM

It lets him use his single speed grinder and catch the steel at diminishing speeds.

I can’t see any reason why this would be useful. Steel doesn’t care how fast the stone is moving. Full speed, light touch, and let the blade cool between passes.

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Don W

18959 posts in 2711 days


#5 posted 07-18-2018 03:57 PM

The faster it moves the quicker it build heat. That way we say a slow speed grinder is best, but with care, a normal grinder works well. Go slow, quench often, and you’ll be ok.

I often take several passes then set it in the water and focus on something else for a few minutes if it’s a long term grinding op.

-- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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RHutch

7 posts in 3198 days


#6 posted 07-19-2018 04:19 PM

I’m in agreement with the full speed and regular cooling in water. I’ll add that I don’t use my grinder for sharpening ever. It’s just there to reshape misused tools found at yard sales.

-- Hutch, Rhode Island

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MrRon

5086 posts in 3387 days


#7 posted 07-19-2018 05:39 PM

If you use an aluminum oxide wheel (white), it won’t heat up the steel as much as a carborundum wheel will. A grinder is used to shape tools, not to sharpen them. After reshaping the tool, then you sharpen it using stones or diamond. Sanding belts are out for sharpening. They round over the edge.

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Karda

1282 posts in 697 days


#8 posted 07-19-2018 05:50 PM

I have never used this method but done see a use for it other than very small to that would burn easily. I read one turner used that method for his under .25 inch skews because even regular slow speed would burn them, makes sense

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

21272 posts in 2827 days


#9 posted 07-19-2018 06:29 PM

Maybe find one of these?

And use it….WEN Wet Wheel.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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