| Forum topic by Lost_in_sawdust | posted 685 days ago | 1115 views | 0 times favorited | 22 replies | ![]() |
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685 days ago |
Also my first official post here! So- hello everyone :) love this community and so far, it has been my biggest source for help! ( and the wood whisperer ) lol Ok- I have read around several posts on restoring Stanley hand planes, but haven’t come across this question, I’m sorry if it has been asked! A Stanley #2- that was kept in good condition only some rust, but when I placed it in the rust remover and washed it off, looked brand new for about a min. The other is a Stanley SW- but it has no numbers other than patents! Thanks all! |
22 replies so far
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#1 posted 685 days ago |
Ok- here are the pics of the no 2 and the SW plane.
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#2 posted 685 days ago |
I can’t see the pictures but it’s not uncommon to get a yellow oxidized hue. It should disappear after oiling or waxing. Nice gift, a Stanley #2! Welcome to LJ! -- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog |
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#3 posted 685 days ago |
That #2 is junk. Send it to me and I’ll use it for a paperweight. :-) Seriously though, even though there are a few issues here, it’s still a fairly rare and valuable plane. How you go about restoring it depends on what it is you want. Personally, I’m not trying to preserve antique value when I clean up a plane. I just like it to look as shiny and new as possible. I never use rust removers. I start off by soaking the parts in Simple Green to get the grunge and dirt off, then I start working on the rust by applying a liberal amount of WD40 to soften it up. After it sits a while, I just go after it with a combination of sandpaper, wire brushes, buffing wheel… whatever seems to be working best. No two are exactly alike in my short restoration experience. For lapping the sole and sides, I stick self-adhesive sandpaper to a slab of granite, and rub like crazy till everything is flat. As for the cracked tote, you can make a glue repair, or just get a replacement on eBay. -- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood" |
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#4 posted 685 days ago |
Congrats !!! -- Pat - Worker of Wood, Collector of Tools, Father of one |
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#5 posted 685 days ago |
The block plane is something like a #18 or perhaps a #65. Sometimes the planes are numbered on the side of the plane. A photo from a bit further back would be helpful in identification. Is it a standard or low angle plane? I’m in the do as little as possible camp for restorations. Both of your planes have collector value. Though the repair on the #2 has a pretty big impact on value. -- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov |
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#6 posted 685 days ago |
I’m not worrying too much on keeping the value, the main value to me is that it was my grandfathers :) but I don’t want to take it’s original character either… Or knowing me- ruin it! Lol so I am mostly focusing on getting the metal nice and shiny – and making sure everything is flat to use. Japanning is still 90% so I will just put some shellac to coat it. |
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#7 posted 685 days ago |
What kind of rust remover are you using? Also for more info on the planes check this site. http://www.supertool.com/stanleybg/stan0a.html Take a look at the #18 and #65…. -- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov |
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#8 posted 685 days ago |
Wayne, here is the SW plane…sorry I’m still trying to get the formatting size down lol
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#9 posted 685 days ago |
The block plane looks like an #18. I have not used your de-ruster, so I cannot comment on the discoloration. I would not think these are rusted to the point I would consider electrolysis. These should clean up just fine. -- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov |
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#10 posted 685 days ago |
Reference info that you may find handy.. -- Phil G |
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#11 posted 684 days ago |
I think the yellow you are getting is flash rusting, there may be some instruction on your rust remover with regard to flashing. Welcome to the club, soon you will be a very sick man, you will have imprinted Patrick’s blood and gore on the inside of your eyelids, will stalk local tag sales at 6:00 in the morning, and have vats of evaporust, bubbling water, and metal dust all over your shop. Now say it with me … My name is lost in sawdust .. and im an addict. -- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty |
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#12 posted 684 days ago |
I use electrolysis to clean planes and dry the parts as quick as I can when they are removed from the bath. Also use a brass bristle brush to scrub off the residue, it doesn’t scratch the iron but notice it leaves a light brass color to the parts. I believe that is due to brass plating from the brush to the iron. Apply paste wax as soon as the parts are completely dry. -- The only difference between men and boys is the price of their toys. |
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#13 posted 675 days ago |
Goodmorning everyone!
The only thing that’s bothering me is the lighter color on the tote, I sand that epoxy as gently as I could! Lol Thanks all!! |
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#14 posted 675 days ago |
Very nice job on the restore – dramatic improvement. Re: the black residue, which I think is black oxide – someone correct me if I’m wrong. I’ve gotten that as well when I mistakenly had a part not completely submerged in my Evaporust bath. It left a black line along the point of exposure. It was the dickens to remove. |
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#15 posted 675 days ago |
Nice job so far. A really good metal guy could fix the bad repair if you know one. You could also buy or make a replacement tote. The #2 is a pretty rare plane. Search LJs for tips. A lot of good resources. -- There is nothing like the sound of a well tuned hand plane. - http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com (timetestedtools at hotmail dot c0m) |
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