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Trying my first hand plane clean-up attempt!

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Forum topic by Lost_in_sawdust posted 07-06-2011 08:00 PM 1589 views 0 times favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Lost_in_sawdust

10 posts in 1247 days


07-06-2011 08:00 PM

Also my first official post here! So- hello everyone :) love this community and so far, it has been my biggest source for help! ( and the wood whisperer ) lol

Ok- I have read around several posts on restoring Stanley hand planes, but haven’t come across this question, I’m sorry if it has been asked!
I just got 2 planes from Grandpa, and a few more will soon follow I’m sure :))

A Stanley #2- that was kept in good condition only some rust, but when I placed it in the rust remover and washed it off, looked brand new for about a min.
Then it took on a somewhat yellowish look? I’m wonder what I’m doing wrong…should I not rinse it off under water after?
Also- at some point about 30 yrs ago. It got dropped and the sole broke, which he took to a welder friend and fixed ( my opinion it’s crap patch job) but idk if I can work around it?

The other is a Stanley SW- but it has no numbers other than patents!
Lol
I’m going to attempt to follow up now, with pics. Since I don’t think I can from my iPhone :)

Thanks all!


22 replies so far

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Lost_in_sawdust

10 posts in 1247 days


#1 posted 07-06-2011 08:14 PM

Ok- here are the pics of the no 2 and the SW plane.
Thanks again guys!! :)

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Bertha

12951 posts in 1382 days


#2 posted 07-06-2011 08:30 PM

I can’t see the pictures but it’s not uncommon to get a yellow oxidized hue. It should disappear after oiling or waxing. Nice gift, a Stanley #2! Welcome to LJ!

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

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CharlieM1958

15706 posts in 2907 days


#3 posted 07-06-2011 08:39 PM

That #2 is junk. Send it to me and I’ll use it for a paperweight. :-)

Seriously though, even though there are a few issues here, it’s still a fairly rare and valuable plane. How you go about restoring it depends on what it is you want.

Personally, I’m not trying to preserve antique value when I clean up a plane. I just like it to look as shiny and new as possible. I never use rust removers. I start off by soaking the parts in Simple Green to get the grunge and dirt off, then I start working on the rust by applying a liberal amount of WD40 to soften it up. After it sits a while, I just go after it with a combination of sandpaper, wire brushes, buffing wheel… whatever seems to be working best. No two are exactly alike in my short restoration experience.

For lapping the sole and sides, I stick self-adhesive sandpaper to a slab of granite, and rub like crazy till everything is flat.

As for the cracked tote, you can make a glue repair, or just get a replacement on eBay.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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DaddyZ

2414 posts in 1729 days


#4 posted 07-06-2011 09:17 PM

Congrats !!!

-- Pat - Worker of Wood, Collector of Tools, Father of one

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WayneC

12293 posts in 2786 days


#5 posted 07-06-2011 10:32 PM

The block plane is something like a #18 or perhaps a #65. Sometimes the planes are numbered on the side of the plane. A photo from a bit further back would be helpful in identification. Is it a standard or low angle plane?

I’m in the do as little as possible camp for restorations. Both of your planes have collector value. Though the repair on the #2 has a pretty big impact on value.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

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Lost_in_sawdust

10 posts in 1247 days


#6 posted 07-06-2011 10:34 PM

I’m not worrying too much on keeping the value, the main value to me is that it was my grandfathers :) but I don’t want to take it’s original character either… Or knowing me- ruin it! Lol so I am mostly focusing on getting the metal nice and shiny – and making sure everything is flat to use. Japanning is still 90% so I will just put some shellac to coat it.
I’m nervous that the metal is now starting to turn black after her second bath- is this normal? Lol

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WayneC

12293 posts in 2786 days


#7 posted 07-06-2011 10:37 PM

What kind of rust remover are you using?

Also for more info on the planes check this site.

http://www.supertool.com/stanleybg/stan0a.html

Take a look at the #18 and #65….

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

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Lost_in_sawdust

10 posts in 1247 days


#8 posted 07-06-2011 10:53 PM

Wayne, here is the SW plane…sorry I’m still trying to get the formatting size down lol
I’m using krud kutter- the must for rust…I don’t have a battery charger for the electrolysis just yet.
Thanks again!

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WayneC

12293 posts in 2786 days


#9 posted 07-06-2011 11:02 PM

The block plane looks like an #18. I have not used your de-ruster, so I cannot comment on the discoloration.

I would not think these are rusted to the point I would consider electrolysis. These should clean up just fine.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

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woodgu

63 posts in 1463 days


#10 posted 07-07-2011 03:13 AM

Reference info that you may find handy..

-- Phil G

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chrisstef

11132 posts in 1695 days


#11 posted 07-07-2011 02:31 PM

I think the yellow you are getting is flash rusting, there may be some instruction on your rust remover with regard to flashing. Welcome to the club, soon you will be a very sick man, you will have imprinted Patrick’s blood and gore on the inside of your eyelids, will stalk local tag sales at 6:00 in the morning, and have vats of evaporust, bubbling water, and metal dust all over your shop. Now say it with me … My name is lost in sawdust .. and im an addict.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

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wb8nbs

141 posts in 1381 days


#12 posted 07-07-2011 04:03 PM

I use electrolysis to clean planes and dry the parts as quick as I can when they are removed from the bath. Also use a brass bristle brush to scrub off the residue, it doesn’t scratch the iron but notice it leaves a light brass color to the parts. I believe that is due to brass plating from the brush to the iron. Apply paste wax as soon as the parts are completely dry.

-- The only difference between men and boys is the price of their toys.

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Lost_in_sawdust

10 posts in 1247 days


#13 posted 07-16-2011 04:59 PM

Goodmorning everyone!
Just wanted to say thanks again, for help and direction for this. Blood and Gore is overwhelmingly amazing, also thanks for the link Phil, the pictures helped! Lol
Wanted to update on the progress- Here she is all cleaned up- today I will be lapping the sole and sides.

The only thing that’s bothering me is the lighter color on the tote, I sand that epoxy as gently as I could! Lol
Maybe some garnet shellac?

Thanks all!!

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pierce85

508 posts in 1251 days


#14 posted 07-16-2011 05:37 PM

Very nice job on the restore – dramatic improvement.

Re: the black residue, which I think is black oxide – someone correct me if I’m wrong. I’ve gotten that as well when I mistakenly had a part not completely submerged in my Evaporust bath. It left a black line along the point of exposure. It was the dickens to remove.

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Don W

15240 posts in 1256 days


#15 posted 07-16-2011 07:01 PM

Nice job so far. A really good metal guy could fix the bad repair if you know one. You could also buy or make a replacement tote. The #2 is a pretty rare plane. Search LJs for tips. A lot of good resources.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

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