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Forum topic by jerkylips posted 07-06-2011 05:25 PM 890 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jerkylips

273 posts in 2036 days


07-06-2011 05:25 PM

So I finally got my table saw but between putting in a new lawn, trying to get the garage organized, and getting the house & family ready for a baptism this weekend, I haven’t been able to get it put together. I have it on some mover dolly-type-things that I built, in the garage. Last night I was working on the lawn when a storm blew in really quickly. The garage doors were open, & the wings got some water on them. I wiped them dry & sprayed some Topcoat on them. I went back out a couple hours later & there was a fair amount of surface rust already forming. I never expected these things would show rust THAT fast!

The previous owner had the saw in his basement, & I don’t think he ever waxed the top, so I’m sure that’s a factor. I’m planning to clean up the top with wd-40 to hopefully get rid of the rest of the rust, then wax. Is there anything else I should do? I want to wax the wings before I assemble so that I can wax the sides before they butt up to each other..

Also, I just read a post (different site) recently that said, “wax with a past wax (not automotive wax)...” I was thinking that I WAS supposed to use automotive wax. If not, what exactly is the correct wax to use?

thanks in advance!


7 replies so far

View Bertha's profile

Bertha

13003 posts in 2159 days


#1 posted 07-06-2011 05:34 PM

I think most guys here use simple Johnson’s wax. I use neutral shoe polish just because I have it lying around. Once I put a dehumidifier in my shop, I haven’t had a real problem with rust but yeah, it happens quickly! Congrats on your new saw!

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

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racerglen

3112 posts in 2246 days


#2 posted 07-06-2011 07:41 PM

Auto wax is a no-no because of silicone content.. Makes for fisheyes in your finish..

-- Glen, B.C. Canada

View MedicKen's profile

MedicKen

1610 posts in 2928 days


#3 posted 07-07-2011 03:58 AM

WD-40 or any other type of lubricant for metal and a green scotchbright pad and a little elbow grease should take care of the rust. Wipe it off with a paper towel and then either wax, Johnsons, or Boeshield. I have used both and prefer the wax

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

View Tony's profile

Tony

1 post in 1999 days


#4 posted 07-07-2011 10:34 PM

I thought that Topcoat was all that you would need to protect the metal & keep it slippery. I was going to buy some, but now I’m not sure.

-- Tony, Fleming Island Florida

View jerkylips's profile

jerkylips

273 posts in 2036 days


#5 posted 07-07-2011 11:01 PM

Tony -

The guy I bought the saw from had it in his basement – I don’t think he ever used the topcoat. I sprayed it on AFTER it got wet, hoping to keep it from getting any worse. If it had been treated prior to getting wet, I may not have had the problem.

Someone else may be able to add more info about Topcoat, but that’s my understanding – that you should use it on a clean, rust-free surface to keep it that way.

View syenefarmer's profile

syenefarmer

432 posts in 2546 days


#6 posted 07-07-2011 11:35 PM

The TopCote will actually do a better job at rust protection than the paste wax will. Personally, I do double duty. First, I lay down a layer of the TopCote primarily for it rust preventative feature and then I apply a coat or two of Johnsons Paste Wax for its slipperyness factor. I do this for all of my iron with great results. About two or three times a years I strip all the layers off with Mineral Spirits and reapply.

View GregD's profile

GregD

783 posts in 2602 days


#7 posted 07-07-2011 11:46 PM

I’ve also seen my cast iron tops rust up like that in my garage. My guess is that with high humidity, temperature swings, and the heat capacity of the iron it is easy to get condensation on the iron; maybe not so much that you can see it but enough so it can cause rust. Short of something like paint or polyurathane I doubt any rust preventative can really protect against that. So I keep my equipment covered overnight (and days that it isn’t used), and I’m careful to avoid exposing cold tops to warm morning air when it is damp outside.

I use TopSaver and TopCote in addition to the covers. I’ve seen untreated cast iron start rusting even when it was covered and they keep the surface fairly slick.

-- Greg D.

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