Gorilla glue

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Forum topic by woodman71 posted 1151 days ago 1623 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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162 posts in 1957 days

1151 days ago

I’m building a outdoor table and chairs .The chairs have mortise and tendon joints I had to laminate the chair posts to get 2 1/4 inch square post . I used gorilla glue the one that requires water “moisture” to help set up and it also expands . I have used this glue in the past and it works great don’t care for the mess it makes. I went and brought the other Gorilla glue the white one. I was reading the back and it says it water resistant type 2 can any one tell me what that means . It also said not recommended for structural or load bearing applications the same for tite bond 2 so I’m still using the first Gorilla glue I mention at the begin. So what is the best outdoor glue to use that doesn’t make a mess and a lot of clean up . What do you all use thanks for you input.

5 replies so far

View scopemonkey's profile


182 posts in 2797 days

#1 posted 1151 days ago

A few years ago, one of the magazines (I believe Wood) did an article comparing PVA, polyurethane, and epoxy in outdoor applications. They all did fairly well. Polyurethane offered no advantages over water resistant PVA or epoxy. For ease of application and clean up, I use Tightbond 3. Polyurethane creates a mess to clean up.

And I forgot to say….Polyurethane may expand, but it is not structurally “gap filling” like epoxy. If your mortise/tenons are loose, don’t rely on Gorilla glue to help out.

-- GSY from N. Idaho

View Bob Kollman's profile

Bob Kollman

1796 posts in 1824 days

#2 posted 1151 days ago

For mortise and tenon joints I’d also use the titebond 3. Gorilla, glue is probably not a good application for
out door furniture. I have never heard of any one using it for outdoor furniture, where tightbond 3 is a very
common application for outdoor stuff. Menards does have epoxy’s that work well with outdoor wood applications
Also if your using the cedar here in town menards or lowes, this stuff is dripping wet, no glue will set in that stuff.
Kettle moraine hardwoods has nice dry cedar.

-- Bob Kenosha Wi.

View gfadvm's profile


10737 posts in 1323 days

#3 posted 1151 days ago

TB 3. I have used this stuff to laminate a new transom for my son in laws gigging boat. Not only does the boat go in the water, it lives outside year around. Project is 3 years old and still solid.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View David Kirtley's profile

David Kirtley

1276 posts in 1631 days

#4 posted 1151 days ago

I have given up on polyurethane glue and converted to epoxy personally. Polyurethane is more expensive than epoxy, isn’t as water resistant, doesn’t fill gaps as well, requires more clamping pressure, and has less open time. Polyurethane is also really messy as you have noticed.

The PVA glues (regular carpenters glue) are fine but I really like Titebond III for general use. The white Gorilla glue(PVA) is fine but the Titebond III can do anything it can do along with being more water resistant. I also don’t have to keep more types of glue on hand. I have a big gallon jug and pour into roller applicators when I use it.

-- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune:

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3415 posts in 2593 days

#5 posted 1150 days ago

Just use 2 part resin glue. Forget about glue joint failure with that stuff. It is bullet (and water) proof.


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