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Using E6000 adhesive for inlay?

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Forum topic by TZH posted 1117 days ago 1878 views 2 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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TZH

421 posts in 1738 days


1117 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question tip carving shaping finishing sanding rustic arts and crafts inlay glue clear adhesive clear glue ca glue epoxy

I’ve tried CA glue and epoxy and my results have been mixed (granted, I’m “adhesive challenged” when it comes to stuff like this). So, basically I’m wondering if any of you inlay experts out there have ever tried E6000 for your inlay work? And, if so, what your results may have been.

I’m experimenting right now with a little bit, and won’t know the results until it has fully cured, but so far it looks encouraging. I drilled a hole with a forstner bit and set a small, really ugly little stone in it about 2 hours ago. It says to let it cure 24 to 72 hours for a full cure, so I won’t touch it until tomorrow. The glue is crystal clear so far. I’m hoping there won’t be any shrinkage, and once it’s cured I’m hoping to be able to sand it in order to accept a finish coat of poly over the top (the sanding part has me concerned because the instructions say this glue is abrasion resistant, so I’m not sure if this means to sanding, or if it means “scratches).

I did some research on the internet and virtually everyone who blogged it says they consider it to be amazing glue. The only problem with that is I couldn’t find anyone who’s used it for inlay work (maybe there’s a good reason – I don’t know).

Any feedback on this topic would be very much appreciated. Thanks.
TZH

-- https://www.facebook.com/pages/Dead-Wood-Renaissance/361417090585685


7 replies so far

View richgreer's profile

richgreer

4522 posts in 1672 days


#1 posted 1117 days ago

FWIW – I do quite a bit of inlay work and I have never seen a reason to use anything other than basic woodworking glue. In my case, that is Tite Bond III.

I just did 72 of these Pew End Panels and half of them had the cross inlay. Each one was secured with TB III. It worked great.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/50175

-- Rich, Cedar Rapids, IA - I'm a woodworker. I don't create beauty, I reveal it.

View RockyBlue's profile

RockyBlue

270 posts in 1291 days


#2 posted 1117 days ago

I use this epoxy I found on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310186223912&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
I use it on my tables with the saw inlay and it works great.
This listing for 24oz bottles has some more info also.http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-RESIN-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-VERSION-MAX-CLR-24-OZ-/310187764669?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4838a1abbd I have some of the 96 oz leftover if you want to experiment with it. In the ebay ad they show a toy car incased in a cube of this epoxy with no bubbles and is clear.
They also say you can sand, polish, machine, router it when cured. If you think this may work I can bring you some this week, just let me know.

-- I haven't had this much fun since hogs ate my little brother. www.rockybluewoodworks.com

View jonasramus's profile

jonasramus

24 posts in 1574 days


#3 posted 1117 days ago

Ditto. Many of my pcs have inlay. I’ve never had to use anything but yellow wood glue. Tite bond I is what I usually use since has a faster cure time than II or III.

-- Jeff, Deltona Florida

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TZH

421 posts in 1738 days


#4 posted 1117 days ago

Thanks, everyone, for the feedback. I guess I should have been more clear on what I was looking for when I first posted. Wood inlay I know can use the regular wood glue. I was looking more at what a lot of the LJ’rs do who inlay stone, turquoise, and so on. So, I apologize for not making that clear right from the start. Looking forward to getting a lesson from you, RockyBlue, on how to use the epoxy you mention in your post. Thanks, again.

TZH

-- https://www.facebook.com/pages/Dead-Wood-Renaissance/361417090585685

View TZH's profile

TZH

421 posts in 1738 days


#5 posted 1116 days ago

Well, I guess I have my own answer as to how good E6000 might work for stone inlay as a filler, and that is it ain’t so good. It dries crystal clear, but shrinks significantly. When I applied it, I made sure it had a dome over the hole it was supposed to fill. By the time I checked it today, the glue had shrunk to well below the hole rim. I also noticed a fairly large bubble that had developed during cure that wasn’t there when originally applied. So, my recommendation would be to continue using epoxy and/or ca glue for this type of inlay. I guess I could/should have put this into the product review tag, but didn’t know at that time what my results were going to be. So, my apologies for putting it here.

TZH

-- https://www.facebook.com/pages/Dead-Wood-Renaissance/361417090585685

View Gregn's profile

Gregn

1642 posts in 1581 days


#6 posted 1116 days ago

Not all is lost. We now know that this application doesn’t work. Thanks for the information learned.

-- I don't make mistakes, I have great learning lessons, Greg

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

5393 posts in 2027 days


#7 posted 1115 days ago

Bentlyj
That stuff is pretty good. I use it as well as System 3 epoxy.
TZH, all may not be lost. You can pour it again to fell the voids. You can also drill into the bubble and fill it, too.
The dam mentioned by Bentlyj is a good idea. I use modeling clay. My inalys are small so I never worry about heat build up.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

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