LumberJocks

Anybody a framing capenter?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by JPB posted 1105 days ago 1753 views 0 times favorited 27 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View JPB's profile

JPB

31 posts in 1115 days


1105 days ago

I didn’t know where to post this, or even if its appropriate for this site, but the members here seem much less likely to flame me for posting a DIY question in a ‘pro’ forum, which is all I can seem to find. Mods delete away if I’m way off topic.

I have this cat – it had a small medical problem (corrected) that led to his relieving himself in my living room – way up against the wall. As a result it soaked thru the carpet, missed the padding and into the OSB subfloor and sill plate for an outside wall. We already had some hardwoods ordered to go down in there, so I was just going to patch the subfloor and spay the sill plate with some cat pee chemical from the pet shop.

So my question is, how do I patch the subfloor that is right up against the sill plate? Is there going to be anyway to get a cut flush up against the sill plate? Jig saw maybe?

Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks

Joe


27 replies so far

View lew's profile

lew

9920 posts in 2341 days


#1 posted 1105 days ago

Every project requires a new tool! How about this-
http://www.portercable.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=24970

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View specialj's profile

specialj

8 posts in 1122 days


#2 posted 1105 days ago

sawzall with blade in backwords works just be carefull not to cut into i joist or framing members below.For bathroom remodels we have to do this just about on everyjob to get at the plumbing,etc…

View Mark's profile

Mark

1787 posts in 1859 days


#3 posted 1105 days ago

sawsall out a square patch and make sure you cut it on center joist to joist. do not cut the joist (or any wiring at that). it may be a bit easier to use a circular saw at 5/8” or 3/4” depth depending on how thick your floor is just along the joist until you cant cut any further with it. but anyways once its cut out, get a piece of plywood the same thickness and size that you cut, and screw it into your joists. If you really want to perfect it, use some subfloor caulking on the floor joist before you screw it in. And to top it off, if you can get to it from underneath just grab a small piece of plywood and screw it in where the board butts with the existing subfloor (just to prevent warping or a weak spot in the floor (it will be strong enough without it but just to give it that little extra beef if you want it). Anyways thats that.

-- My purpose in life: Making sawdust

View Mark's profile

Mark

1787 posts in 1859 days


#4 posted 1105 days ago

o….and when cutting the ply along the joist, watch out for screws or nails. remove them first.

-- My purpose in life: Making sawdust

View Bluepine38's profile

Bluepine38

2876 posts in 1671 days


#5 posted 1105 days ago

I have had to do a couple of these, a sawzall will usually get you close enough, after you use a circular saw to
take out an opening so you can see what is underneath, if you can not get at it from underneath. I always
attach at least a 2X4 between joists to fasten the new piece to on both ends and glue it to eliminate any
possibility of a squeaky floor. Nothing can ruin a job worse than having the carpet down and hearing that
damn squeak as you walk in to pick up the check.

-- As ever, Gus-the 75 yr young apprentice carpenter

View JPB's profile

JPB

31 posts in 1115 days


#6 posted 1105 days ago

Thanks for the tips. I can’t possibly get all the wood out – I can’t cut out the sill plate, can I? I was thinking of using the sawzall andcutting out a square between the joists, rather than trying to pull out all the nails so I can cut down the center with a circular saw. I was then going to attach some 2×4’s to the joists to screw the sub floor to. Kind of like the ask the builder guy here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1zvWVL5_9w

I DO have access to the floor from the bottom.
Anybody have any idea what a carpenter would charge me to do do this? Maybe I’ll hire it out and pass on the opportunity to buy a new tool.

View Mark's profile

Mark

1787 posts in 1859 days


#7 posted 1105 days ago

lol…..a carpenter will charge you too much for something so little…..he’d prob charge you 50-100$....you can cut out the sill as long as theres no stud on it and you must put a block in to replace it when you’re done putting the subfloor in

-- My purpose in life: Making sawdust

View Mark's profile

Mark

1787 posts in 1859 days


#8 posted 1105 days ago

you can cut out a small square between the joists like you said and but 2×4 blocks under the new piece to support it just dont put too much weight on it afterwards

-- My purpose in life: Making sawdust

View fussy's profile

fussy

980 posts in 1636 days


#9 posted 1104 days ago

Same thing happened to us except the damn cat was lazy, not sick (we still have him. I’m married). We cut up the sub floor with a circ saw with depth set for the thickness of the sub floor. Used a toe-kick saw from HF, #94626. Amazing tool, worked great. Worth every penny even if I never use it again. Got right up to the wall. Used 2 coats of Kilz, finished up, and the floor’s been down a year (red oak), and nary a sign of cat pee. He walks by the corner with a puzzled look.

Steve

-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3034 posts in 1261 days


#10 posted 1104 days ago

Buy a product called “Acticate Plus” at a janitorial supply store. It works well.

View jerkylips's profile

jerkylips

233 posts in 1156 days


#11 posted 1103 days ago

at our old house we had a similar problem – cat had a medical problem & did the same thing. I got a gallon jug of that “nature’s miracle” enzyme cleaner. I scrubbed it up with water first, then REALLY soaked it with that stuff. I had to let it dry for a weel pr so, but it seemed to do the trick. We had 3 cats at the time. None of the cats went back to that spot. If you have the time to do it, it would probably be less drastic before cutting up your floor (especially since you need to treat the sill plate anyway.

One thing our vet recommended was getting a black light to make sure you can see every spot that the cat “hit” & treat them all. We saw lots of stuff under the light that we’d never know was there otherwise.

View JPB's profile

JPB

31 posts in 1115 days


#12 posted 1103 days ago

I did the Natures Miracle thing. In fact, since there is new floor going down anyway I cut a big piece of the carpet out and treated the sub floor and sill plate directly. The problem I am now facing is the floor has to go down, and the surface is WET – like 16 to 18% according to my meter and besides that, it still stinks, and I mean BAD. I am thinking about that toe kick saw, but I have heard some pretty scary stories about them. Would that multi tool be able to take out take out that OSB under the sill plate?

View jerkylips's profile

jerkylips

233 posts in 1156 days


#13 posted 1103 days ago

yours must be worse than ours was, then. If it were me, I’d start with a circular saw set to a depth of your subfloor thickness & get as close to the sill plate as possible – you should be able to get within 1-2”. From there, you may need to use a chisel to chop out the rest. Definitely glue & screw the new piece to prevent squeaks later.

I realize this probably goes without saying, but make sure that when you cut out the old piece you give yourself something to nail to on the edges. that may mean cutting the hole bigger than you need to get rid of the pee spots..

View childress's profile

childress

841 posts in 2127 days


#14 posted 1103 days ago

I used to work for a general and we had a realtor client that had us do fixes to get places ready to rent. One condo had cat piss and it wreaked…. Basically put a couple thick coats of kilz2 and it completely sealed and blocked the odor. No cutting and replacing sub floor whatsoever. I’m pretty sure it worked fine because this realtor was a stickler and always called us back for the most mundane things, but this particular problem, never a call back. Hope I’m not too late and you haven’t already done a bunch of work… You can get this at any hardware store pretty much.

-- Childress Woodworks

View JPB's profile

JPB

31 posts in 1115 days


#15 posted 1103 days ago

I haven’t done anything yet. I thought about Kilz – I was worried about the moisture content of the OSB sub floor after the Natures Miracle treatment. I have to put 3/4” sold maple floor on top of this.

showing 1 through 15 of 27 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase