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Forum topic by Tyler posted 06-27-2011 09:46 PM 1096 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Tyler

174 posts in 2161 days


06-27-2011 09:46 PM

Just putting the finish on a couple of foot stools for my two small boys and had some questions about finishing. I am going to put probably two coats of tung oil on them and then was thinking about using some wax. These will be used in a bathroom, so some water protection is needed, but I didn’t want to use a polyurethane.

Is wax a good option? What kind? Does anyone use a buffer for the final rubbing? If so, do you use a drill attachment or some corded buffer?

I imagine most folks do things slightly different and I’d like to hear them all!

As info, the wood used is curly cherry.


14 replies so far

View Cosmicsniper's profile

Cosmicsniper

2202 posts in 2626 days


#1 posted 06-27-2011 11:00 PM

Why not polyurethane? It’s probably the best thing you can use for that. It will resist dents and water damage better than most anything. If the glossy, plastically look doesn’t appeal to you, then use satin…or wax atop the finish.

Outside of a film finish, your stools will have a difficult time resisting wear. This isn’t a bad thing if you plan on periodically refinishing them, which is easy to do if they aren’t too beat up. But for maintenance-free durability, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a better choice than poly.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

View Steven H's profile

Steven H

1117 posts in 2527 days


#2 posted 06-28-2011 12:56 AM

If you don’t want it look plastic look then oil/varnish blend is another choice.
However this gives only moderate protection. Often waxing will be a good ideal.

Instead of linseed oil ,use tung oil, blend with polyurethane and thinned down with solvents.
After the first coat dry . I would use the oil/varnish blend with 1500 sandpaper and rub out the finish. Sandpaper will force into the pores. Wipe excess off.

Do the same in 3rd coat.

After dry apply wax.

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8523 posts in 3116 days


#3 posted 06-28-2011 01:02 AM

foot stool? buffed up wax? +water?

nah… I wouldn’t go that route – too slippery. I would stick to poly finish, you can use matte finish which will not look as plasticy.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Steven H's profile

Steven H

1117 posts in 2527 days


#4 posted 06-28-2011 01:13 AM

I forgot to mention

Waterlox original is an alkyd varnish which is another excellent varnish that does not look plastic.

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Tyler

174 posts in 2161 days


#5 posted 06-28-2011 02:28 AM

Good points everyone. I guess the main reasons I didn’t want to do poly were I didnt want a plastic look and I honestly just wanted to try something different. I’m trying to get more into furniture, not sure stools count,but just wanted to try more of a furniture type finish. That said, if wax will be slippery, I definitely want to stay away from that.

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Tyler

174 posts in 2161 days


#6 posted 06-28-2011 02:30 AM

I’ll also add that I have no experience mixing finishes, but of course I’d like to learn.

View Tyler's profile

Tyler

174 posts in 2161 days


#7 posted 06-28-2011 03:24 AM

Can poly be used over tung oil?

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Steven H

1117 posts in 2527 days


#8 posted 06-28-2011 03:38 AM

Yes, as long as you let the tung oil dry completely.

View AaronK's profile

AaronK

1441 posts in 2932 days


#9 posted 06-28-2011 03:41 AM

... right – because remember that you can always mix tung oil and poly.

thinning out the poly (either with or without tung oil) with thinner/mineral spirits will decrease the thickness of each coat. This helps you control the amount you put on there and prevents the plastic look.

nothing “wrong” with poly for furniture, btw. It’s all in choosing the right finish for the right application. This one pretty much requires poly. Another good example might be a kitchen table top.

View fussy's profile

fussy

980 posts in 2518 days


#10 posted 06-28-2011 07:31 AM

2 Coats of poly, let dry COMPLEATLY, then rub out with 0000 steel wool and wax. Johnson’s floor wax is good, or use beeswax (available at nearly any hardware store or home center. The poly will last forever and the steel wool will let you pick your gloss level.

Steve

-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

View hObOmOnk's profile

hObOmOnk

1381 posts in 3595 days


#11 posted 06-28-2011 01:39 PM

Try Waterlox – a fully cooked varnish formulated with tung oil and phenolic resin.

-- 温故知新

View Tyler's profile

Tyler

174 posts in 2161 days


#12 posted 06-28-2011 07:49 PM

The ideas around thinning the poly make a great deal of sense and sound like a great idea. I’ll have to do some testing and see if I can get the results I’m after. Thanks

View AaronK's profile

AaronK

1441 posts in 2932 days


#13 posted 06-28-2011 08:03 PM

tyler – thinning poly is a very popular thing to do for exactly those reasons. you should be able to dial in just the right amount of film build up you want (remember, you can always sand it down).

View Steven H's profile

Steven H

1117 posts in 2527 days


#14 posted 06-28-2011 08:16 PM

Yea i made a typo I said alkyd varnish, its phenolic varnish
I prefer using non-polyurethane varnish for furniture’s use.

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